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Screw this

  • Thread starter Thread starter ShirleySerious
  • Start date Start date
I have removed stripped heads like that using a star point (6 point head,kinda like a hex..I ALWAYS forget the name), and I smack it in. You can only smack it once, and really hard.It has worked for me in the past....
The key is to soak it in PB Blaster first.
After that, I'd rip the dang thing off and buy a new one. ARGH! (JK)
 
ON the 77 thru 79 models, the clutch cable went through the top of the sprocket cover. The clutch mechanism was attached to the inside of the cover. There was a shaft that came through the cases from the right side of the engine where the clutch disks are located. The left end of the shaft inset into the clutch adjustment mechanism/cable attachment under the left'countershaft sprocket housing.

E.

 
Planecrazy, I believe earlfor answered your question, but you can see it in pic 2 of 4. The black cylindrical thing is the rubber boot for the cable adjuster. But I haven't thought about it that way, drilling off the screw head. Oh well I just hope I can remove it somehow.

Speedzter2000, you're probably thinking of a torx bit.

BTW, does the sprocket cover really need that one screw? I mean there's 5 others holding it on and it's not exactly sealed on there tight, so maybe I can get by without one screw?
 
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Once you learn how to use the impact driver properly (As others have stated: pressing down fully BEFORE smashing with hammer), the majority of those phillips head screws will come out. For those that don't, you'll almost certainly have to drill the screw head off completely. Then when you can't "vise-grip" the bolt itself out (you're almost never that lucky), you'll have to go the drill/tap/helicoil route.
 
You're right, the sprocket cover doesnt seall anything. It there basically to keep your socks out of the countershaft sprocket and chain. LOL It does provide support for the gear shift shaft and alignment of the clutch rod, so it is a good thing to have all the bolts in it. Once you drill off the head of the offending bolt, and take the cover off, there will be about 1/4" of the shank protruding. Easiest way to remove it is with a pair of vice grips. Alternatively, you could hacksaw a slot and use a screwdriver. I would just go to Home Depot or whatever and buy a cheap, small pair of vice grips.

E.


 
first timer said:
just drill the heads off and get a good brand vice grip and remove like mentioned above. you could also try taking a impact driver to those striped heads, the impact force from the hammer may cut the bit deep enough into the screw to let the bit loosen it. It's worth a shot, plus you will need to get a impact drive if you plan to do any work on the bike in the future.

the 550 and small bore bikes use a nylon screw thing and push rod to operate the clutch. The cable attaches on the left side of the motor.

impact.jpg

http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/generic/images/impact.jpg
Click to expand...

I've always found drilling the easiest way to get them out if they are accessible to drilling. You only have the drill in enough to pop the head off the screw, just stay centered and only drill in the depth of the head, if it doesn't pop off on it's own and you've got a good clean drill hole just use the butt end of the drill to pop the head off. Remove the cover then what's left of the screw. It's actually real easy and you're less likely to bash something that doesn't like getting bashed.
 
I got an impact driver today. Someone here said they were $10 I think? Mine was $40. Anyway I got the cable out and changed it. I tried routing the new cable as close to the old cable as I could. I got everything situated, but now the clutch feels heavy and stiff. Does that happen with all new cables or should I use some lubricant?
 
You should lube the cable. It will work much easier and last longer. Its difficult to get oil completely through the housing and there is a pressure attachment made for oiling cables that fits over he cable end, but I forget who makes it and they may no longer be available. You can hang the cable up and dribble oil into the top until it run out the bottom. I'm impatient with things like that, so I stick about 6 inches of the cable housing into the vacuum hose of my shop vac, wrap the cable housing and hose end with duct tape to seal it, then stick the other end of the cable into a cup of oil.
It sucks the oil into the cable housing in a couple minutes. You can tell how much if you mark the oil level on the cup before starting.

I think I paid $9.95 for my impact driver about 3 years ago. If I had known they were going to go up to $40, I would have bought a couple hundred of them and sold them here. LOL

E.


ShirleySerious said:
I got an impact driver today. Someone here said they were $10 I think? Mine was $40. Anyway I got the cable out and changed it. I tried routing the new cable as close to the old cable as I could. I got everything situated, but now the clutch feels heavy and stiff. Does that happen with all new cables or should I use some lubricant?
Click to expand...
 
earlfor said:
You should lube the cable. It will work much easier and last longer. Its difficult to get oil completely through the housing and there is a pressure attachment made for oiling cables that fits over he cable end, but I forget who makes it and they may no longer be available. You can hang the cable up and dribble oil into the top until it run out the bottom. I'm impatient with things like that, so I stick about 6 inches of the cable housing into the vacuum hose of my shop vac, wrap the cable housing and hose end with duct tape to seal it, then stick the other end of the cable into a cup of oil.
It sucks the oil into the cable housing in a couple minutes. You can tell how much if you mark the oil level on the cup before starting.

I think I paid $9.95 for my impact driver about 3 years ago. If I had known they were going to go up to $40, I would have bought a couple hundred of them and sold them here. LOL

E.
Click to expand...

I just used the "straw" attachment that comes with a can of WD-40 and tried to get as much of it as I could into the housing. I'm sure there's a break in period, after which the cable won't be so stiff.

My impact driver looks the same as first timer's, so I'm assuming he got it at Carquest, which is where I bought mine.
 
WD40 is not a lubricant. :-) Its a water displacement formula. Great for your ignition wires or wiring harness, but not useful for lubricating anything.
Thin oil is the best thing. Sewing machine oil is excellent. :-) Or, 3 in 1 works just as well. Plain old cooking oil is a better lubricant than WD40. heh

E.


ShirleySerious said:
I just used the "straw" attachment that comes with a can of WD-40 and tried to get as much of it as I could into the housing. I'm sure there's a break in period, after which the cable won't be so stiff.

My impact driver looks the same as first timer's, so I'm assuming he got it at Carquest, which is where I bought mine.
Click to expand...
 
Harbor Freight typically sells cheap impacts for less that $10. And to second Earl, use something other than WD-40. PB Blaster or Marvel Mystery Oil work well, but you need to let them work for a day or so before attempting anything.

As for how you've drilled out the screw head. Once again, go to Harbor Freight and get the appropriate size screw extractor. After the penetrating oil has been on there for a day, or longer (frequent applications in between will help greatly), use the extractor with a vice grip or crescent wrench and turn it in (they tighten while trying to remove the screw), and it should hopefully come out.

Brad bt
 
ShirleySerious said:
I googled impact wrench, since I don't know what they are and it looks like manually powered ones still have to fit in the head of the screw. That won't do me much good, since there is no semblance of a phillips head, just a 1/16" hole with no grip for any kind of wrench.

I would follow your advice, mark, except I don't have vice grips, nor will the cover come off, which is the problem I'm having in the first place. I tried spraying WD-40 on the outside of the screw, probably because I misunderstand the name penetrating oil, thinking that it will seep into the threads.
Click to expand...

you are supposed to use an impact wrench to remove them but i guess its to late when you do get them out ditch the philips head screws there is a link on this site who has a kit to replace them with hex head bolts its like 20 bones youll get every bolt for the engin i belive the site is z1enterprizes
 
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