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Sea-foam cleaner, need to be diluted?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
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Anonymous

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Hello all!

I've got an '81 GS750E that I picked up last fall. It runs pretty well, once I can get it started. It started OK last year, started well. This year, I've taken it out a few times. The carbs were re-built at a local dealership in August just prior to my getting the bike. I added fuel stabilizer to the tank and ran it through. I've replaced the plugs and have assured good spark. From the looks of it, the carbs aren't happy. Starts fairly well when it's hot, but almost impossible when it's cold. I picked up some Sea-foam per another string in this group, but am wondering... My thought is to empty the float bowls and suck raw Sea-foam through the system as if it were fuel, let it sit for a little while, add a bit of Seafoam to the tank and then hook the fuel line back up? Would the concentration be too much for the seals? Any other thoughts?
 
AH! a very common error, when you put the fuel stabalizer in you didn't run it through the choke circut, non stabalized fuel was in the chocke circut and got stale.

just letting it sit in the bowls probably wont help as it needs to get in the choke circut to work.
I would recomend draining the bowls then filling the tank with a half can of the sea foam (or berrymans) and fill the rest of the way with gas, then star the bike with the choke on so it has a chance to draw the cleaning mixture into the choke circuts and clean them.

if any of the choke circuts are completely clogged this wont work and dissasembly and manualy cleaning will be required.
 
Mixing the Sea Foam 50/50 with gasoline works pretty well to clean out partially clogged carb circuits. After you drain the carbs, fill them up with the 50/50 mix. Turn your kill swith to off, then run the starter for 5 -10 seconds to draw the fluid up into the carb circuits. Let the bike sit for 30 minutes to an hour, then start it up. I used a small funnel and a graduated cylinder to add the mixture to the carbs, so I didn't need to drain the gas tank in order to get a 50/50 mix. It took several times through this procedure to do the job, but it's a whole lot easier than pulling the carbs and manually cleaning them. And if it doesn't work, it at least makes the carbs a little easier to clean after you pull them.
 
Thanks guys! If all goes well, this evening I'll be riding again. Woohoo! I haven't really had a look at the way these carbs are put together. I'm used to the old Honda 350 carbs with the old butterfly choke that you could fix in your sleep. These seem to be a bit more complex than that! lol Thanks again!
 
Hey Guys!

OK, When I got home, it was warm out (67 degrees, woohoo!). Go figure, the bike started the first crank! Anyway, I ran some mildly deluted Sea-foam through the carbs (choke engaged) and dumped some in the tank as well. Put it back together and rode it for approx. an hour or so. It ran great! Not sure if it solved the choke/starting problem yet, as it's still warm here in Cleveland, but it's supposed to snow this weekend and I can try to start it then. Question... There's now a ton of white smoke coming from the exhaust on both sides. It used to puff just a little upon start, but not a lot. Does the Sea-foam usually burn white or could I have damaged a seal or something?

Thanks again!
Lorne
 
Mornming all,
I went out this morning (nice brisk 40 degree day) and tried to start the bike. On the high side, it started right up (big step in te right direction!). Downside is that only the two right cylinders are working with the choke on (both left exhaust pipes are cold). So, it looks like I may have to tear down the left carbs. Question... Do the carbs have to be re-synchronized after doing so and where can I buy/RENT a synchronizer?

Thanks!
Lorne
 
If you distrub the carb-carb linkage or re-jet them you'll need to re-synch. You can get a carb synch tool from motionpro (www.motionpro.com). Their cheapest is about $40. Others here have sworn thta another type that uses steel rods rather than mercury to measure vaccum is better (but more expensive) so you'd need to decide how often you'd be using the tool and what your budget is.

On a slightly different note, be careful about the solvents you run through your carbs. Some will attack rubber and can leave you with sludge for o-rings.
 
i use the Motion Pro mercury tool about 4 times a year. It works fine for me, but I wouldn't want one if I had kids around. I keep it hanging up on the workshop pegboard. Hope I don't spill that mercury 8O
 
Well, It snowed here in Cleveland... Yippee! NOT! Anyway, it was a good time to check cold starting. Nope! Still runs on only the right two cylinders with the choke engaged. Crud! I had one of the bowls off and cleaned what I could with a small piece of wire, but no change. Question, does the clog normally occur in the choke circuit and how big of a job is it to get to that point? Can it be done with the rack mounted or do I get to do a complete rip down? Outside of this choke issue, the bike runs really well now!

Thanks!
Lorne
 
Correction to last submitted... Obviously, the clog is IN the choke circuit... "Where in the choke circuit does the clog normally occur?"

Thanks again!
 
Well, I finally got the choke issue resolved. The problem on all of the carbs was in the float bowl. There's a small well where the choke pick-up tube enters and the hole makes a sharp 30 degree bend. Right at the bend was where they were all clogged. Was able to clean all of them without removing the carbs and made them happy by just removing the float bowls and poking around with a piece of wire and some carb cleaner in that choke pick-up well. Gotta love a quick fix! Starts right up now and runs great!!!

Thanks again!
Lorne
 
Good to hear it's working better. As far as the white smoke, it's normal. Sea Foam does that.
 
Lorne, I see you're from Wickliffe. Small world, that's where I live. I'm on Drenik Drive. We'll have to get together for a ride sometime.
 
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