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Seat Pan Repair

  • Thread starter Thread starter Adler
  • Start date Start date
Alrighty, small update, I went ahead and coated the thing in some crappy rust paint, I wasnt too careful and it looks terrible, luckily noone cares.

IMAGE_060.jpg


Then I went ahead and cut myself a nice chunk of metal from some scrap (airconditioner housing) and riveted it onto the worst of the damage.

IMAGE_061.jpg

(mmm feet)

Do you guys think I should put more sheets? maybe on that front area...?
 
Good start!

As for the answer to your question, the short answer is "yes." I would definitely add more strap to the swiss cheesy parts, just for insurance. In the end, nobody will see any of it, save the rivets on the other side. Like you said, nobody is going to see or care what it looks like, so function (and comfort) are king! If you coat it in an epoxy paint you'll also probably do a nice job of sealing out the moisture and prevent more rot from happening too quickly...

Looking good so far!

Regards,
Steve
 
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I heeded your suggestions and im a little bit proud of the results.

IMAGE_062.jpg


That was not easy to mould to all those curves!!!
 
My seatpan is in simular condition,still looking for replacement.I think your repairs will work for a while,depending upon how much time you spend riding,two up or not etc.The front section seems a little iffy
 
That looks pretty good. Especially compared to what I have done.

My attempt was not repairing a same shape item but fabricating an E pan to fit a G bike. The additional metal was welded into place and while it might be a bit stronger than the riveted version, I had not done any welding in many years and the result looks much less attractive than yours.:)
 
My Seat Reconstruction

My Seat Reconstruction

I didn't notice this thread until now so I hope this isn't too late to be of assistance (if it is useful at, that is).

My seat was in slightly better order than yours and didn't need any replacement steel. There was plenty of rust underway and most of the little tines for holding the seat cover were gone.
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First it treated and painted with POR15 products (I have used POR15 throughout my restoration and have become a believer in the product). That gave me a nice clean solid base to work from.
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The main issue then was to figure how to repair/replace the cover fixings. After looking around at various things and noting that a lot of modern bike seat covers are simply stapled on I came up with my ingenious solution.

I actually glued thin strips of timber (a thin plywood in this case) around the inner edge of the seat with a locally available polyurathane glue (called Gorilla glue). The POR15 with the glue means the timber is well and truely attached to the metal. I did make the mistake of not checking before fitting the timber and found it inteferred with the hinge and lower skirt fitment - just a matter of extra work to chisel out the offending areas.
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Once the wooden strips were in place it was simply a matter of fitting the seat foam then the cover and stapling the cover around the bottom edge into the wooden strips. A good tip about this part of the job (I read it from others before doing the job) do it on a nice sunny day with the cover nice and warm and flexible.
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I am pretty happy with the final result. Haven't done an accurate calculation but I beleive the whole cost, excluding labour, was well under NZ$100.

7cd0ff45d97e9b9be66224523ce3f1a1.JPG


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Hope this is helpful or if not at least a little bit interesting
 
Thanks Bill,
That looks great! Wood strips was an idea my upholstery guy had, and I mentioned it on here a few weeks ago (different thread). Someone mentioned that the wood would be prone to rotting and that ABS strips would probably be more robust (I think it was spyug).
Still it looks great on yours and that is a very good option. I even have gorilla glue! (very cool stuff)
 
Thanks Bill,
That looks great! Wood strips was an idea my upholstery guy had, and I mentioned it on here a few weeks ago (different thread). Someone mentioned that the wood would be prone to rotting and that ABS strips would probably be more robust (I think it was spyug).
Still it looks great on yours and that is a very good option. I even have gorilla glue! (very cool stuff)

I did consider more "hi tech" materials than the wood but in the end I think rot will only be a risk if the wood gets wet and stays wet too long. In this case I don't expect the seat to spend a lot of time in rain anymore and even when it gets the odd shower it is actually up under the lip of the seat base and fairly protected from the rain. In fact I have a feeling the ply I used was actually marine treated too, plus, I just remembered it received a coat of paint before final assembly !!!. I think it will last long enough for me - Guess I will find out in time.
 
Looks great to me so far. My GS850G's pan is broken in half, and the PO welded strips across the break, but the pan flexes horribly. You've given me some ideas on how to fix mine.

Etienne Nel.
South Africa.

1979 GS850G (current, just bought.)
1979 GS1000s (sold about 25years ago)
 
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