G
Guest
Guest
Red wire from the dyna should tie into the old wire that powered the points. The other two go directly to the coils.
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supergrafx
Guest
I must have done something wrong. In about 20-30 minutes, I'm getting a ride back to the house (still at work). I'm going to take the tank off and see just what I did. Chef, I'll take pics of where I spliced and report back asap tomorrow. If it is too dark out, I'll set my alarm and wake up extra early to see.
D
Dead Boy
Guest
Just put my Dyna in my 77 750 on Saturday. Started up first kick.
Seems to me from your pics that your setting the timing to the line on the right of the F on 1-4. You need to set it to the line on the left. Line that up with the indicator. You then loosen the three screws that hold the large rotor in place and rotate it until the test light comes on. Tighten it back down and turn the motor to the line to the left of the F for 2-3. Move your test light to the coil wire for 2-3. You then should have a light. If you don't, you need to loosen the two cap screws that hold the right module down and move it until the light comes on. After that you should be good.
You won't be able to start the bike if you set the timing to the marks onthe right hand side of the F for both coils.
Seems to me from your pics that your setting the timing to the line on the right of the F on 1-4. You need to set it to the line on the left. Line that up with the indicator. You then loosen the three screws that hold the large rotor in place and rotate it until the test light comes on. Tighten it back down and turn the motor to the line to the left of the F for 2-3. Move your test light to the coil wire for 2-3. You then should have a light. If you don't, you need to loosen the two cap screws that hold the right module down and move it until the light comes on. After that you should be good.
You won't be able to start the bike if you set the timing to the marks onthe right hand side of the F for both coils.
Hey Gabe,
Sounds like you understand how to time the unit now; set it for static timing with the 1-4 F mark aligned and without holding the rotor against the spring. Make sure the rotor is pointing to the left. When all is said and done, the screws should be pretty much centered in the slot of the Dyna S unit.
After you have this set, check spark. Put a known good plug in one of the spark plug caps and then lay the metal portion of the plug against the engine and turn the engine over. You should see spark. Check all the plugs like this to make sure there is not a problem with one of the coils or one of the spark plug caps.
If you have spark on all four plugs, and the timing is set as described, the engine should fire.
Good luck,
Sounds like you understand how to time the unit now; set it for static timing with the 1-4 F mark aligned and without holding the rotor against the spring. Make sure the rotor is pointing to the left. When all is said and done, the screws should be pretty much centered in the slot of the Dyna S unit.
After you have this set, check spark. Put a known good plug in one of the spark plug caps and then lay the metal portion of the plug against the engine and turn the engine over. You should see spark. Check all the plugs like this to make sure there is not a problem with one of the coils or one of the spark plug caps.
If you have spark on all four plugs, and the timing is set as described, the engine should fire.
Good luck,
S
supergrafx
Guest
Ness, it has been confirmed. I have spark on all 4 plugs. Rick, who I met on the forums actually came over and tried to help get the bike running. But to no avail. Something I noticed when taking the tank off and on whenever fiddling with the system, was that if I hold the gas tank arced upwards at a 45 degree angle, gas will drizzle out the petcock. I don't know if this is normal and doing something to the vacuum in the petcock. Also, when I emptied the gas out of the tank, due to not wanting to keep the same gas in the tank, gas dripped out of the vacuum port, one drop about per 5 seconds. Once again, I don't know if this is normal considering the vacuum line was pulled off the vacuum intake while emptying the gas. The PO said he installed a new petcock and from what other users say on this site, should last about 29 years. I saw a vacuum pingle being sold. Wondering if this is superior to the stock vacuum OEM model? Back to the spark, never saw sparks before, but Rick said perhaps the spark was too little. Only thing though, it seemed to start up with the previous points although the bike wasn't idling like it should.
G
Guest
Guest
You have spark. Are you getting fuel?
Is it possible you have the Dyna rotor off 180 degrees?
Is it possible you have the Dyna rotor off 180 degrees?
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supergrafx
Guest
Chef, I must be getting fuel since while Rick was over, after excessive cranking of the engine, fuel starting leaking out of the intake boots. I was scared at that point if I was in the process of flooding the engine. I am pretty sure the dyna rotor is not off 180 degrees since the magnet faces to the left while 1-4 is in the upwards/northern direction like the instructions show. The bike sounds like it wants to ignite but no cigar.
G
Guest
Guest
Do you have compression?
Are all the plug wires correct?
Are you so off time that it won't start? Use F1-4 as the reference.
Are all the plug wires correct?
Are you so off time that it won't start? Use F1-4 as the reference.
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supergrafx
Guest
Haven't checked compression yet chef. I don't have one of them compression guages yet but will def go get one. I also will check the voltage on coils next time I go out and get 3 of those watch batteries to power up the multimeter. When I check compression, this will tell me if my timing is out of sync, right.? I think a different axle was put on when the PO changed out the chain and maybe had more or less teeth. Having a longer/shorter chain may change or retard the factory timing? I have the static light timed at F1-4 and F2-3. That's where I set it to fire like Ed said too. This seemed to work better than starting from the full advance. After I set them both at the F marks, I double checked by rotating the engine the full advance marks on 1-4,2-3, simulated the rotor by twisting it to the right and light came on accordingly. Almost positive it is all good now. I'm thinking it must be the carbs. And I was wondering about the petcock too. I don't want to go throw money around on stuff that may not make a difference (coils, 185 dollar pingle petcock, ect..). Do you think I should just start with the valve clearance, then the carbs again, then the petcock if this doesn't help? Also, about the 180 degree off on the dyna rotor: the magnet would be facing right with the 1-4 of the advancer facing upwards if this were the case, right? I might have to call ya I guess. But it seems like I've done the basics and it should start, it appeared that way to Rick too. I'm thinking now either a weak spark and/or fuel/air problem.... But I want to do that compression test.
G
Guest
Guest
The magnet should be facing left at the F 1-4 mark.
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supergrafx
Guest
That it is............
