• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

SH 775 issue...again

ddaniels

Forum Sage
Maybe I'm just dense but I'm confused by one thing concerning connection the Polaris SH 775.

1. I'm going directly to it from the stator as suggested by everybody

2. I'm connecting the ground to three places as I read it: one leg to the frame, a second leg directly to the battery and a third leg to the mounting point of the R/R (seems redundant to me)

3. As far as connecting the red positive, I'm intending to go directly to the positive post of the battery with an inline fuse (what size fuse in there?)

My confusion is, what happens to the red wire that was originally connected to the stock R/R?

Thanks for the help
 
Personally, I would take the red + output and tie it into the original red wire instead of going to the + battery terminal. No need for an additional fuse and the charging current paths would be correct. Just make sure that your fuse box connections are clean along with the fuse contacts.
 
Personally, I would take the red + output and tie it into the original red wire instead of going to the + battery terminal. No need for an additional fuse and the charging current paths would be correct. Just make sure that your fuse box connections are clean along with the fuse contacts.

It won't hurt to try this first.

When the bike is up and running set your voltmeter to DC and put one probe on the red wire connection and the other on the + battery post. Any reading you get signifies voltage loss on the path through the fuse box and to the battery. Hopefully it will only be about .1 volt, in which case you are fine.
 
As far as the redundant grounding, look up the single point ground. I have mine done similarly to this except I have the battery and engine both to the frame as well as the regulator.
m0PASeE.png
 
Last edited:
As far as the redundant grounding, look up the single point ground. I have mine done similarly to this except I have the battery and engine both to the frame as well as the regulator.
m0PASeE.png

I know you did not mean to direct short the battery !?!
 
How did I imply I was direct shorting the battery when we are talking a single point GROUND?
 
How did I imply I was direct shorting the battery when we are talking a single point GROUND?

It's a little confusing when you choose to use red for ground. In this case especially so because there are red writes in the harness and they are hot, not ground. (ETA: I did see the legend that said all wires are ground but it is still contrary to convention and can be ca use for concern. )
 
Wasn't my photo. I just pulled it from another thread I found on it here. Sorry for any confusion.
 
For the single point ground, you want all your grounds to tie together and bolt to the frame. You don't need to run a ground from the r/r to multiple points.

If you can ignore the colors in shadow's diagram, I'm pretty sure that's how mine's wired (don't remember what I did with the engine ground strap).
 
I wound up just plugging the ground coming from the harness into the R/R just like stock. I also ran a ground wire from the R/R mouning screw to the frame. Interestingly, the hole spacing on this new R/R marches the stock holes, but could not mount there because it was too tall and hit the frame. Also interestingly there are two threaded holes on the bottom of the battery box that's the same spacing so I just mounted it under there. Worked out great. So, now with my new Caltric stator and new Polaris R/R I am getting a very nice 14.3 volts when cruising down the road. Sweet!
 
For the single point ground, you want all your grounds to tie together and bolt to the frame. You don't need to run a ground from the r/r to multiple points.

If you can ignore the colors in shadow's diagram, I'm pretty sure that's how mine's wired (don't remember what I did with the engine ground strap).

So where do you suggest connecting the r/r (-) wire?
 
I wound up just plugging the ground coming from the harness into the R/R just like stock. I also ran a ground wire from the R/R mouning screw to the frame. Interestingly, the hole spacing on this new R/R marches the stock holes, but could not mount there because it was too tall and hit the frame. Also interestingly there are two threaded holes on the bottom of the battery box that's the same spacing so I just mounted it under there. Worked out great. So, now with my new Caltric stator and new Polaris R/R I am getting a very nice 14.3 volts when cruising down the road. Sweet!
Unless your r/r case is grounded to r/r(-) your grounding is just as crippled as the factory configuration.
 
Unless your r/r case is grounded to r/r(-) your grounding is just as crippled as the factory configuration.
Posplayr, do you have a handy picture you could point me to showing exactly where to connect all wires? Is the ground wire I currently have coming from the mounting screw of the R/R supposed to be connected to the black wire coming from the harness? Should there be a T-connection there that also goes to the frame? Thanks
 

Attachments

  • RR CONNECTIONS.jpg
    RR CONNECTIONS.jpg
    14 KB · Views: 0
Posplayr, do you have a handy picture you could point me to showing exactly where to connect all wires? Is the ground wire I currently have coming from the mounting screw of the R/R supposed to be connected to the black wire coming from the harness? Should there be a T-connection there that also goes to the frame? Thanks

The SPG is a current collection point before you return to R/R(-). ALL CURRENT RETURNS TO R/R(-)just as ALL CURRENT LEAVES R/R(+). Just follow the diagram using the mounting screw as a SPG collection point.


This is from the GS Charging Health thread. You are correct that all of the harness return current needs to go right to the R/R(-) as you are doing. But it is the battery charging currents are so much more important as voltage drops between battery and R/R case drops is charging voltage from the R/R setpoint.

Last weekend after seeing increasing suggestions that "grounds do not matter"; "just wire the R/R(-) to the battery" , I did a more detailed graphical analysis of each step in adding SPG wires from the basic stock configurations to the suggested configuration to show the impact. I has never done that before although I had done most of the analysis in my head already. Following doing that my "intellectual gut feelings" were confirmed and what is shown is essentially nessesary as a "one size fits all" solution to grounding. In other words follow the advice and you will not go wrong.

If you have a 6 wire the same applies, you are just going to have to find a low impedance switched power source. You can do a search, but a coil mod relay provides about the best option. Otherwise hook it right to the battery and make sure to not let the GS set for long periods of days
Here is a simplified diagram showing the connections for a 6 wire R/R. Just omit the Brown wire for a 5 wire R/R. The R/R has doubled up wires for both (+) and (-) so it is actually an 8 wire as shown.
NOTE IN LEGEND BELOW ASSUME THE MAIN FUSE 30 A IS ONLY 15 Amps as per stock GS. SORRY WAS OVERSIGHT AS NOT MY ARTWORK
picture.php

STEP #2.) GOOD R/R GROUNDS Make sure that the R/R(-) is properly grounded to: harness,battery,frame.
I have described a single point grounding approach that minimizes the amount of current that flows between the battery (-) and the R/R (-) connections. By doing that there is less susceptibility to resistance due to bad connections and corrosion and the R/R should charge the battery more accurately.

While there a different ways to implement the R/R grounding scheme, the way Suzuki originally implemented the GS electrical charging systems is confused, inconsistent and not ideal in any sense of the word. I provided the theory of why the one below is best, I will not rehash that here. Just follow the directions below:
 
Last edited:
Posplayr, do you have a handy picture you could point me to showing exactly where to connect all wires? Is the ground wire I currently have coming from the mounting screw of the R/R supposed to be connected to the black wire coming from the harness? Should there be a T-connection there that also goes to the frame? Thanks

SPG fine and dandy.

Simple answer: run the black ground wire from the R/R over to the battery. If you run it to a secondary location, make sure that spot has a direct line to the battery. If it doesn't, add one.
 
Thanks very much. So, does this picture represent what I should be doing? Please disregard that the picture does not show anything connected to the positive post on the battery. I'm trying to focus on grounding here. Also, when I attach the ground connector to the mounting screw of the R/R, should the connector be on top of the R/R, just under the screw head, or under the R/R between it and the mounting hole?

RR CONNECTIONS2.jpg
 
Thanks very much. So, does this picture represent what I should be doing? Please disregard that the picture does not show anything connected to the positive post on the battery. I'm trying to focus on grounding here. Also, when I attach the ground connector to the mounting screw of the R/R, should the connector be on top of the R/R, just under the screw head, or under the R/R between it and the mounting hole?

View attachment 45507

You can check with an ohm meter but that mounting bolt is isolated from R/R(-) so your R/R(-) is not directly connected to the battery in any way shown except for the ground cable to the back of the engine which is the problem the SPG tries to address.

Put all those ground wire and stack then at the mounting bolt. The diagram I provided show each wire. Compare that to yours.
 
I guess the picture is not very clear. Where that line coming from the harness negative return crosses over the line between the battery and the mounting bolt, that is supposed to be a junction point or SPG where all grounding joins together. Your diagram is nice but does not show what is ground return and what is ground connected to mounting screw. And, why are there two red wires going to R/R? And what is the brown wire? The SH 775 I have only has 5 connection points: 3 stator, 1 positive, 1 negative. Forgive my ignorance, but I tend to think more pictorially than theoretically.
 
Back
Top