SH775 question

[Guest]

Hey, I had a bad regulator and stator in my gs850 (1980) and replaced both the stator and regulator. the stator is putting out 45 vac at idle but I only get 12.4 volts at 5000 rpm. I had replaced the regulator with a

SH775 and was wondering if the reason it isn't working properly is because I only put 2 of the wires out of the stator to the R/R? Do I need to put all 3 wires to the r/r? I had left one to the headlight.​

 

[Downs]

All three wires from the stator need to go to the R/R. The headlight "loop" can be simply left out. Wiring is very simple. 3 wires from the stator go t the R/R. Then you need a positive from the R/R to go to a 30A either fuse or circuit breaker, negative wire goes to ground. Either straight to battery or I use a bus bar for a common ground for everything. This greatly simplifies the wiring of the charging system.

 

[Steve]

I am going to have to ask for some clarification here, but will make some guesses in the meantime. :-k

...the stator is putting out 45 vac at idle but I only get 12.4 volts at 5000 rpm.

OK, 45 vac at idle is a meaningless measurement. The standard is to measure the output at 5000 RPM. I think the book calls for over 75 vac at that speed. Yeah, it might put out 45 at idle, but nobody else has measure there, so we don't know if it's "good" or not.

You were just talking about the stator putting out 45 volts at idle, now you are talking about "12.4 volts at 5000 rpm". I am going to guess that it's not STATOR volts, measured in AC, but maybe DC volts at the battery? I think you might have answered your own question with your next statement.

... and was wondering if the reason it isn't working properly is because I only put 2 of the wires out of the stator to the R/R? Do I need to put all 3 wires to the r/r? I had left one to the headlight.

Yes, all three wires need to go from stator to R/R. In the stock configuration, the third wire did NOT go to the headlight. On the bikes made before 01 JAN 1979, there was an operable headlight switch. To reduce the load of the regulator, one of the stator wires was routed to the headlight SWITCH, where one set of contacts would open and close the current through the third stator leg, while ANOTHER set of contacts would control the 12 vdc that went to the headlight. On later bikes that did not have a functioning headlight switch, the third stator wire would go to a 9-pin connector under the tank, where it would turn around and head back to the R/R. We call that the "headlight loop" and bypass it to get rid of all the connectors by running all three stator wires directly to the R/R inputs.

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[Boriqua]

You guys have sufficiently frightened me into replacing my fairly new Electrosport RR with a SH775 and it arrived today. I dont have the loop so I have three wires coming straight up from the stator and I have three terminals under a grey hood on the Sh775 so I am good there.

Now I have 2 terminals under the black hood on the Sh775 but there is no indication of negative and positive. Does it matter which goes to which terminal?

Alex

I did a little google fu and for anyone else with the same question

 

[Steve]

I dont have the loop so I have three wires coming straight up from the stator and I have three terminals under a grey hood on the Sh775 so I am good there.

If your bike does not have the "infamous stator loop", somebody has already re-wired the bike.

Now I have 2 terminals under the black hood on the Sh775 but there is no indication of negative and positive. Does it matter which goes to which terminal?

Very much so. Hook it up backwards, smoke will be released. :-\\\

I see that you did some searching and answered your own question, and that picture is correct, the positive terminal is the one that is closer to the stator inputs.

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