Shafties rebuild - Engine in the frame first or Swingarm on first?

[salty_monk]

For those that have done it... what is the easiest way?

It looks easier to me to put the engine in the frame first & then bolt up the swingarm with the shaft already inserted in the final drive but I've been wrong before... this is on an 82 1100G.

Also how did you torque those shaft to engine bolts? Manual says 70lb and red loctite... Can't get a socket on them...

 

[Guest]

When I did my frame swap on my 80 1000G back in 2010, I lowered my frame over the engine and then installed the swing arm. If I remember right I used crows feet wrenches on my Torque wrench.

 

[Redman]

G, yes.

GK, maybe not. My experience with 82 GK (GKZ) was that had to move engine out of place from its mounting some to get the gear set out of the engine .... oh, wait,.... you are not trying to get the gear set out of the engine, you are just concerned about the drive shaft from the flange.

 

[Steve]

I have had the swingarm off a 650 and 850, but not a 1000 or 1100. I removed the final drive to reduce weight. bolted the drive shaft to the engine, then slide the swingarm over the shaft and anchored it into place.

The only shafty engine I have removed was a 650. Engine went in first, then I (we) repeated previous process.

.

 

[salty_monk]

Ok seems like it's engine in first then. Just making sure there weren't any "gotcha's"

Thanks

 

[bwringer]

Yep, engine first is probably easier.

To torque the driveshaft bolts, I use a long high quality box end wrench (sorry, "ring spanner") and tighten them really, really, really damn tight.

IIRC, the manual calls for new bolts each time, and they come with a red thread locking compound applied. These bolts are highly stressed, so no substitutions.

I suppose if you really wanted to get the exact correct torque, you could do a little measuring, a little math, and use a spring scale with a wrench. But it's a very high level of torque for an 8mm fastener. Not sure whether a normal open end crowfoot would hold.

They do make "flare nut" crow foot style sockets...
https://www.amazon.com/Sunex-971012...&qid=1522514046&sr=1-1&keywords=12mm+crowfoot

 

[salty_monk]

Yes, interesting that they were not that tight when I took them out (I cracked them with a standard length ratchet spanner), I don't know if they were messed with before but they had the remnants of the loctite on them.

I think the manual calls for about 65-70ftlb from memory. I didn't see a call for new bolts, maybe due to stretch, it's an insane amount of torque for that bolt as you say. As much as the rear axle. I'll have a look at that, thanks for the heads up. I'm about to put an order in for some other stock parts (rubber bits) soon.