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Shindengen SH775 connection question

  • Thread starter Thread starter MAC10
  • Start date Start date
M

MAC10

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I just mounted this model of RR-The 3 terminal plug is for the stator wires. The two terminal plug is for the ground, and for power to the battery positive.

Which is the ground , and which is for the power to battery?
 
Thanks Tom. I have an electronics tech friend who wants to test it when it is ready.

My last question is: what size fuse should I use to make a direct to battery connection?

Specs say it produces 35 amps...
 
Thanks Tom. I have an electronics tech friend who wants to test it when it is ready.

My last question is: what size fuse should I use to make a direct to battery connection?

Specs say it produces 35 amps...

by spec it should be 15 amps but GSR experience says 20 amps.
 
I just mounted this model of RR-The 3 terminal plug is for the stator wires. The two terminal plug is for the ground, and for power to the battery positive.

Which is the ground , and which is for the power to battery?
The power terminal is closer to the stator inputs.



My last question is: what size fuse should I use to make a direct to battery connection?

Specs say it produces 35 amps...
No, the specs say it is capable of HANDLING 35 amps. It will only produce what is put into it, up to 35 amps.

The fuse size will depend on how you have it wired into the bike. If you have it going to the stock wire that disappears into the harness, you will not need a fuse, because the MAIN fuse is between the R/R and the battery. If you have the R/R connected directly to the battery, everything that the bike uses and the battery needs for recharging will be going through that fuse, so use a 25 or 30 amp fuse. In the stock configuration, the bike uses all that it can from the stator output, the 15 amp MAIN fuse only has to handle the leftovers that will charge the battery. Before you fire up the engine, the MAIN fuse has to supply all the current to run the bike (coils, lights, etc.) and that is just a bit less than 15 amps, so the stock fuse is fine. In your re-wired setup, though, that one fuse will have to handle EVERYTHING, so it needs to be a bit bigger.

.
 
Thanks Tom. I have an electronics tech friend who wants to test it when it is ready.
...

Good, I'm sure he will have the right stuff -meter wise ! We await his 10 page report with color charts. What brand of stator do you have in case we have to make excuses?
 
Thanks everyone. I always learn something every time I log in here. I will report what I discover and the testing results. I am electrically illiterate, but gaining fast!

Thanks Posrplayer for the concise and informative description of how it works. I will print it out for my reference binder.
 
I just put in a SH775 on my bike too. I tried to test it with my multimeter to see if I had continuity in the right directions, however the normal tests for an R/R did NOT work with this R/R. I can't remember what my readings were, probably "OL" for all cases. However, since I purchased the R/R straight from Polaris I knew that it was good even though the tests were inconclusive. Once on the bike the voltages across the battery terminals were as they should be. The R/R might still be good even if the tests do not come out right when the R/R is not on the bike.
 
I just put in a SH775 on my bike too. I tried to test it with my multimeter to see if I had continuity in the right directions, however the normal tests for an R/R did NOT work with this R/R. I can't remember what my readings were, probably "OL" for all cases. .....
That's an interesting observation! the rectifing diodes in the Sh775 are probably scr's (or somesuch gizmo)-able to be switched on and off to limit current flow rather than just dump it to ground. Sounds like the good old diode test used on a shunt R/R won't mean much with the SH775. I just ordered one myself. Last week I measured my stator current flow heading to my good old SH232 in operation at 1200 and then at 4000 rpm. I will repeat tests with the SH775.
 
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