Steve
GS Whisperer
You are right, it SHOULD not be faulty, but did you measure the output when you installed it? :-k
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M
MAC10
Guest
I measured the outputs with the leads bare. That was before I elected to fill the plug cavity with rtv so it would fit in the tight space I had available. Time to pull it apart, check the connections and crimps, and do it over to be sure.
Also time to pull the starter cover and verify all three leads from the stator are unharmed. The last failure of the stator was caused by wires burning just under the starter cover where they are route on the way to the rr. I made sure that area was smooth when I installed the current stator. Checking it all makes sense, along with testing the outputs.
Does the rotor magnet ever go bad? Any way to test it?
Also time to pull the starter cover and verify all three leads from the stator are unharmed. The last failure of the stator was caused by wires burning just under the starter cover where they are route on the way to the rr. I made sure that area was smooth when I installed the current stator. Checking it all makes sense, along with testing the outputs.
Does the rotor magnet ever go bad? Any way to test it?
Steve
GS Whisperer
I have heard a few reports where someone suspected that the magnetism was a bit diminished, but very few people have the tools to measure that.
However, if you smack the rotor just a bit wrong in an effort to pull it, it is definitely possible to crack the magnets, which renders the entire rotor useless.
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Skip the relay, stator and R/R still have to produce the power no matter how it gets to headlight. An extra bright bulb should be no problem except maybe at idle where voltage might droop slightly.. You need to retest.
Your battery dropping to 12.3 after 4 days is odd- mine stays at + 12.5 after 2 weeks of sitting
I used the ratcheting tool from Vinatge Connections ($35) for my open barrel terminals. After a few practice crimps I was able to get consistent crimps.
Jim
So the stator wires are feeding directly to the R/R right? If so, that much is good.
Voltage loss from R/R power output on the way to the battery is common. There are a couple of terminal connections in the circuit. You may need to remove the brass terminals from the plastic plug connectors and dip them in HCl acid or maybe vinegar to clean. Also scrub down the terminals with a stainless steel brush and pinch closed the prongs on the terminal. It idea is to make sure you don't have any extra resistance in the circuit.
Voltage loss from R/R power output on the way to the battery is common. There are a couple of terminal connections in the circuit. You may need to remove the brass terminals from the plastic plug connectors and dip them in HCl acid or maybe vinegar to clean. Also scrub down the terminals with a stainless steel brush and pinch closed the prongs on the terminal. It idea is to make sure you don't have any extra resistance in the circuit.
I installed the 775 where the ignitor box was and relocated the ignitor to where the old r/r was. I just used spade terminals filled with rtv. I also sealed up the ignitor box as this was a concern.
S
silverbullet132
Guest
I was going to put a FH020AA on my GS as I have used one on my VFR, bad idea?
Honestly, I think the series SH775 is superior and well worth $70 - it limits stator current output to what your bike needs at any moment rather than running at full tilt all the time.
M
MAC10
Guest
SH 775 installation in a GS1000C tips
SH 775 installation in a GS1000C tips
I used a couple of pieces of one eighth inch aluminum plate to build a better mounting, which pieces are flat against the back of the rr which is itself aluminum as a heat sink. The whole thing bolts to the original electical mounting plate on the bike. I had to drill one extra hole to get the bigger SH 775 a place to bolt. A tight fit, but doable. The original Suzuki ignition solenoid is smaller, and will work better than my bigger aftermarket version.
Due to the tight fit , I used spade terminals. At first try it would only charge at 13 to 13.3 volts.So...
This season I re- did the connections from the SH 775 to the three stator wires. I scrubbed the three spade terminals on both ends before assembly, and crimped them tight with needle nose pliers, which is what I have. I cut down the plastic skirt on the rr to improve access to the connections.The way it came from the factory was too deep for my application. It is now about half the height, which lets it fit better in the crowded space, and be easier to work on. Filed smooth it looks original. After I verified it was producing a good charge, I filled it with rtv as recommended. I will add a little support to the wires with a zip tie to prevent stress on the now hanging wires.
The centre of the three wires from the stator was a bit loose, which was the cause of the charging problem.
The bike now sits at a solid 14.3 volts at anywhere over 2000 rpm. At idle it drops to 12.9.
Next step is to test my electric vest to see how the new charging system copes with it.
SH 775 installation in a GS1000C tips
I used a couple of pieces of one eighth inch aluminum plate to build a better mounting, which pieces are flat against the back of the rr which is itself aluminum as a heat sink. The whole thing bolts to the original electical mounting plate on the bike. I had to drill one extra hole to get the bigger SH 775 a place to bolt. A tight fit, but doable. The original Suzuki ignition solenoid is smaller, and will work better than my bigger aftermarket version.
Due to the tight fit , I used spade terminals. At first try it would only charge at 13 to 13.3 volts.So...
This season I re- did the connections from the SH 775 to the three stator wires. I scrubbed the three spade terminals on both ends before assembly, and crimped them tight with needle nose pliers, which is what I have. I cut down the plastic skirt on the rr to improve access to the connections.The way it came from the factory was too deep for my application. It is now about half the height, which lets it fit better in the crowded space, and be easier to work on. Filed smooth it looks original. After I verified it was producing a good charge, I filled it with rtv as recommended. I will add a little support to the wires with a zip tie to prevent stress on the now hanging wires.
The centre of the three wires from the stator was a bit loose, which was the cause of the charging problem.
The bike now sits at a solid 14.3 volts at anywhere over 2000 rpm. At idle it drops to 12.9.
Next step is to test my electric vest to see how the new charging system copes with it.
Last edited:
R
rwnielsen
Guest
http://www.roadstercycle.com
Poke around here. He has a set of plugs that you can assemble yourself all the way through complete harnesses. He ships immediately and answers emails. First class operation
Poke around here. He has a set of plugs that you can assemble yourself all the way through complete harnesses. He ships immediately and answers emails. First class operation
M
MAC10
Guest
Yes it is posrplayer! I meant to say wired directly to the rr.
J
jbthomp
Guest
I have the triumph harness for the sh775 if you want it. I didn't use it on my 550 because the connectors were too big to clear the rear fender. It's yours if you want it just pay postage!
Thanks for that tip, that is what I ended up doing also. I moved the igniter box from the battery box location to where the old RR was (one bolt fit and it hangs diagonally), And by elongating one of the holes on the sh775 was able to bolt right up to the old igniter location with some rubber washers between the bracket and Regulator for more air flow.. I do have 2 questions though................
1. Does there need to be a fuse or circuit breaker between the sh775 and the battery? I thought I may have read that but cannot find that info now.
2. I had some 100% silicone laying around and used that instead of RTV sealant...is there any downside to that?
Depends. The pure-cure silicone is acetic-free and won't harm anything, but the vast majority of available domestic silicone is the acetic acid cure stuff and I don't let that on wiring components. Easiest source for pure-cure acetic-free silicone is the stuff that's used for building aquaria.
ok thanks, I will check the tube
mvalenti
Forum Mentor
rule of thumb I use is if it smells like vinegar, keep it away from metals.
I recently used some of this http://www.homedepot.com/p/Seal-All-2-oz-Adhesive-and-Sealant-380113/100372161 as an over coat/sealer to electrical tape when I ran out of shrink tube.
I recently used some of this http://www.homedepot.com/p/Seal-All-2-oz-Adhesive-and-Sealant-380113/100372161 as an over coat/sealer to electrical tape when I ran out of shrink tube.
This is what I used. I smelled it and it doesn't smell like vinegar to me, cannot find the word acetic on the tube though - 100% silicone: http://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-II-Window-and-Door-9-8-oz-Clear-Caulk-GE5000-24C/100026175
