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short battery life? (part 2)

  • Thread starter Thread starter lurch12_2000
  • Start date Start date
L

lurch12_2000

Guest
I described the problem in a previous thread and now after testing have some results on the stator. Using the Stator papers phase B test procedures I came up with the following 3 readings off the stator wires: 8.2v, 8.6v, and 13.7v which are way below the 60v or higher to pass. Any experience on readings so low? Now I need to replace the stator based on this test but manual says I need special tools to remove? Any tips? Is there a gasket replacement needed on the side cover? Drain engine oil first? The shop manual is not very explicit on steps to replace the stator. Is it worth going with used parts?
 
Not trying to insult but did you have the multimeter set on AC?
 
Drain the oil: yes

Gasket present: yes, around $6 from www.bikebandit.com

Bikebandit also has excellent exploded diagrams that might help you out.

Special tools needed: No, unless you call a hand impact wrench a special tool. If you're lucky enough to have regular bolts instead of the dreaded philips head screws, you don't even need that.

You didn't mention what bike you have (didn't check out the previous thread), but replacing the stator basically consists of this:

Disconnect battery.
Unplug stator wires.
Drain oil.
Remove front left footpeg, shifter arm (mark location of arm on shaft), and any engine guards that may be in the way.
Remove front sprocket cover (if chain equipped, not sure of the procedure on shafties), because the stator wires are routed through that cover.
Remove stator cover.
Remove three bolts (or machine screws) holding the stator to the inside of the stator cover.
Remove stator.
Thoroughly clean stator cover and engine gasket surfaces.
Install stator.
Install gasket (there's different takes on this part, personally I spray both sides of the gasket with silver spray paint [old biker's trick] and install)
Reassemble in reverse order. The torque on the cover bolts is only 6-8lb-ft., you don't want to strip out the threads or break off a bolt. If your bike has the philips head screws for everything, do yourself a favor and get a stainless allen-head bolt kit from Ebay or Z1 Enterprises. $30-40 and it replaces nearly every external bolt on the engine. Make sure to use anti-seize compound on the threads.
 
Yes, I did set the multitester to AC when testing the 3 stator wires. No I'm not insulted as I am not a genius when it comes to electrical testing.

Thanks, for the steps on stator removal. I have an '83 GS1100G (shaft) and 8mm bolts on cover- not philips head. Not sure where that cable runs but it appears to come out in back of engine.
 
Stator harness runs into the starter motor cavity and out the back side.You just need to take the starter cover off to access the harness.
 
Will a known good used stator from a 1980 GS1100 16 valve work in my 1983 GS1100G 8 valve bike? anyone have one for sale?
 
Go to a site like Bikebandit or Alpha Motorsports and look up the part #'s for both bikes. If they're the same, it should fit.

I guess they routed stator wires a bit differently on different bikes. The stator wires were routed through a narrow channel in the front sprocket cover on my 750.
 
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