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Should the Carbs be this difficult to reinstall?

  • Thread starter Thread starter HalcyonGT
  • Start date Start date
H

HalcyonGT

Guest
After 7mo of putting it off...I cleaned all of my carbs as instructed (except for carbuerator #3; the blasted float pin cannot be removed...I have given up.) And am attempting to place the assembly back on for a test fire. Except, its like they don't fit the flanges at all. Should I "warm" the flanges up with hot water to make 'em flexible? Or if they are this inflexible do I need new ones?

Sincerely,

Running into all kinds of little problems.
 
It's tough. You can use a heat gun to warm up the boots a little to help.
 
New boots would be nice and make life easy but IMHO if they are not split or cracked you can reuse them and get them to co-operate with the application of heat from the electric heat gun. A bit of silicone lube or WD40 in the throats helps too.

Have you had them off the head? If not you should pull them and replace the o-rings if they are fitted.

The easiest way to get them in is to put them in at an angle of about 30 degrees or so (from the horizontal) and lever them up and in while pushing forward. I find a long handled screw driver or pry bar anchored on the engine case by the rear motor mount provides leverage and helps to pop them in.

Good luck. Its fiddly the first time you do it but once you get it you'll have the technique for the next time(s).

spyug
 
Protip, if you do take the boots off to replace the orings for the boots, get some new allen head stainless steel bolts for it and use never sieze. Also, soak the **** out of the oem philips head bolts with PB Blaster for about an hour. It makes it loads easier.
 
Why couldn't you remove that float pin? How would you have thoroughly cleaned all the carbs without doing that? Sorry, but you may want to go back to work on that pin so you can get the floats off and clean that carb CORRECTLY BEFORE trying to put the rack back on. Otherwise you'll be back here asking us why the bike doesn't run correctly
 
an easy way to get a rack of carbs back in is with a nylon ratchet strap string across back side of carbs and attach hooks to the frame infront of motor, pull the slack out and usually one or two ratchet click will pop them into place ;)
 
cowboyup3371 said:
Why couldn't you remove that float pin? How would you have thoroughly cleaned all the carbs without doing that? Sorry, but you may want to go back to work on that pin so you can get the floats off and clean that carb CORRECTLY BEFORE trying to put the rack back on. Otherwise you'll be back here asking us why the bike doesn't run correctly
Click to expand...
and agree completely, where you located maybe someone close can help ya out
 
No, they are not easy to put back in the boots. I always spray a little something in the boots to lubricate them, like starting fluid (oh noes!) or something else that drys fairly quickly and won't ruin your engine, then some wiggling and muscle. I found the best position for putting the carbs on is to sit on the bike so I can grab each side of the carbs and apply even pressure to each side.
 
Walter said:
an easy way to get a rack of carbs back in is with a nylon ratchet strap string across back side of carbs and attach hooks to the frame infront of motor, pull the slack out and usually one or two ratchet click will pop them into place ;)
Click to expand...

:eek:
I hope you're kidding.
 
Sounds like a good idea to me... On one rack I had to put a lump of word behind them and use frame as a lever.

Heat gun or hairdryer and some silicon spray does the world of good though.
 
I had forgotten to add my 2 cents about cleaning the carbs properly. You really do need to get that float out and clean that carb or you're going to have one carb that likley won't run right. It can't be that hard. I've had some tough ones too but if you use a 'drift" of approximately the same size and tap on the pin from one side it will move enough for you to grab with pliers and yank out. You can make a drift from a small screw driver shank.

Give it another go. You will be glad you did.

Good luck with it.
Spyug
 
spyug said:
I had forgotten to add my 2 cents about cleaning the carbs properly. You really do need to get that float out and clean that carb or you're going to have one carb that likley won't run right. It can't be that hard. I've had some tough ones too but if you use a 'drift" of approximately the same size and tap on the pin from one side it will move enough for you to grab with pliers and yank out. You can make a drift from a small screw driver shank.

Give it another go. You will be glad you did.

Good luck with it.
Spyug
Click to expand...
To add to that, I'm paranoid about breaking the posts, so I always soak it in carb cleaner first, and let it sit for a while before I tap it out.
 
The last new set of boots I bought just didn't line up correctly with the carb rack, and putting it together was a struggle. I used WD 40 and considerable foreplay.

It seems that the boots have relaxed and now the rack snaps in and out as it should.
 
Different bike

Different bike

Krunk_Kracker said:
Protip, if you do take the boots off to replace the orings for the boots, get some new allen head stainless steel bolts for it and use never sieze. Also, soak the **** out of the oem philips head bolts with PB Blaster for about an hour. It makes it loads easier.
Click to expand...

His bike doesn't have "O" rings or bolts on the boots.;)
 
Carbs

Carbs

Threre's a guy in my town who only works on old bikes and I asked him what the trick is to getting the carbs back on the bike. He replied, "There isn't one."

Getting them back on my '80 GS750L was a miserable experience although I did notice that it got easier after doing it a couple of times.:mad: For some reason, it's much easier on my '80 GS1100E....even though the set-up is very similar.:)

HINT: When you reinstall the float pins, do so very gently; it's not possible for them to get out of place once the float bowl is reattached.
 
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