Side Stand Switch?

[Keith]

I have an 83 GS 450 which i am trying to get running. I cant get it to turn over at all. When i turn the key on the side stand light stays on whether the stand is down or up. Could this stop the bike from engaging the starter? I had a quick look down by the stand and i didnt see any wiring for a safety switch or anything?

Thoughts?

Thanks,

k

 

[Keith]

I should add that the bike wont turn over in neutral either.

 

[Redman]

Short answer: NO.

 

[Redman]

More info:

You are thinking of the sort of interlocks that became common in the mid 90s.

On the GS the only interlock is the clutch switch interlocks the starter solenoid. To say it another way, the clutch swtich (called "interlock" on the schematic) is in the starter button circuit, along with the "kill swicth". The kill switch cuts power to the starter button and the ignition. THe clutch swtich interlocks the starter solenoid only.

Did the bike used to start?
Are you pulling in the clutch?


All the sidestand switch does is light a light on the instrument panel.
If you want to bypass it so it doesnt light the light , you unplug the switch, not short it out.

THe clutch stich can be adjusted by loosing the screws and moving if forward and back.
To bypass the clutch switch (I dont recommend, but many folks do bypass it), find the connectors (many in headlight shell, I dont know on 450) and jumper them ot plug them into each other.

understand all of the above before trying to understand this next confusing point:

The low oil pressure switch will light the oil pressure light AND the sidestand light.
I gues this is some sort of backup in case the oil light burns out or something. But the result is that the whil ethe negine is not running sidestand light will stay on even if operate the sidestand.
TO bypass the oil pressure switch so it doesnt light the light(s) ,you disconnect the wire from the switch, not short it out.

.

 

[LAB3]

For what it's worth, my 82 450t doesn't have a side stand switch or indicator. Have a generic 450 wiring diagram that I had laminated to carry around in my saddlebags "just in case" I have a problem and it doesn't show a side stand switch on it. Follow what Red has suggested and if that doesn't resolve it, check the ground wire from the battery to the plate the regulator and starter relay mount to is making good contact, it should be fastened to the top bolt of the regulator. If you still get nothing use a screwdriver across the two big cables on the starter relay, that'll give you an idea whether or not the starter relay is the culprit.

 

[Gorminrider]

Thoughts?

RTFM if you don't have the manual there is one to download as a pdf file here.
BikeCliff's Website
you want this one for your bike GS400-450 '77-'87 (80MB)

The only diagram I see in it with a kickstand light is an '87. The Haynes manual also has a similar diagram but offhand I can't confirm the year.

Redman's post is correct and looks like good advice... Your "sidestand switch" is a separate issue. Likely the switch itself needs fixing.

The clutch safety is named as "starter disconnect switch" in most diagrams. clean it up too but simply, disconnecting the bullet connectors from the switch and connecting them together will remove it from the system to see if it is indeed the problem. Your bike may then start with the starter button if nothing else is wrong, but of course, you will be without the safety of needing the clutch disengaged to start.

 

[Keith]

Thanks for the replies! I think i will try the screwdriver across the starter solenoid and report back!

 

[Redman]

............... i will try the screwdriver across the starter solenoid...........

That will tell you if starter motor, battery connections and engine ground are good.

And/or try jumping the solenoid terminal (the one to battery) to the little wire on the solenoid. That will tell you if the solenoid works (and not arc burn your solenoid terminals nor screw driver).

.

.

 

[Keith]

Update:

Well it seems the old screwdriver across the starter solenoid did the trick. And to my surprise in sub freezing temps it started right up. This is the first time i have heard it running. It was a great moment.

Now that we know the starter is good should i check the clutch safety switch next?

Thanks!

k

 

[Redman]

.............

Now that we know the starter is good should i check the clutch safety switch next?

yes, but first:

.
And/or try jumping the solenoid terminal (the one to battery) to the little wire on the solenoid. That will tell you if the solenoid works
.

and report back

 

[Keith]

I think i know what you mean. Will give it a try tonight.

 

[Steve]

What he is suggesting is to use a piece of wire to connect the positive battery terminal to the solder pad that has a yellow/green wire coming out of it. You can use the positive terminal on the battery itself or the battery terminal on the solenoid. If you use the terminal on the solenoid, you won't need much wire. In fact, even a set of needle-nose pliers could work.

WARNING. Make sure the bike is in Neutral or that the rear wheel is off the ground. You do not need to have the key ON for this test. It will connect the battery directly to the solenoid, so if the solenoid is good, the starter WILL turn.

.

 

[Redman]

.................... so if the solenoid is good, the starter WILL turn..

so if the solenoid is good and the solenoid is well grounded, the starter WILL turn.






Keith, if the jumper-the-solenoid-yellow-green wire doesnt cause the soleniod to click in: either the solenoid is bad OR maybe the solenoid is not well grounded.

But lets hear of your results, then we can discuss in more detail if needed.

Basically, yah, if jump the positive to the solenoid yello-green wire and the solenoid clicks in; then we know solenoid is good and well grounded and will work if the starter button circuit works.... and yes, then look into the clutch switch.

 

[Keith]

I haven't had the time to get out to the ice box (aka the garage) yet. Hopefully Thursday evening! I will post my results as soon as i get them.

Greatly appreciate the help.

k

 

[Keith]

UPDATE:

I used a set of pliers to jump the solenoid and the starter motor cranked over. So i guess that means the solenoid is good? Something going on from the solenoid to the starter button?

 

[Gorminrider]

If you went from the red-circled items (big bolt ->little bolt ) that means your solenoid works. But it's pretty ugly and you should clean it up as much as possible. The photo makes it appear a mass of rust and it's amazing it doesn't all short out because of it.

 

[Redman]

UPDATE:

I used a set of pliers to jump the solenoid and the starter motor cranked over. So i guess that means the solenoid is good? Something going on from the solenoid to the starter button?

View attachment 57268

If you mean you jumped from the solenoid main lug (battery+) to the little pad having the yel/grn wire then, yes, that means the solenoid is good and is well grounded.
And, yes, that means your problem is in the starter button circuit.

THe clutch interlock switch is in the starter button circuit and is a likely suspect. Details of the clutch interlock switch have been mentioned in previous post. So, yah, that is your next step.

But, but, but, what you have circled in red in your pic doesnt look to me like the little solder pad that has the yel/grn wire. I dont see the yel/grn wire anywhere in your pic.

 

[Keith]

I dont see the yel/grn wire anywhere in your pic.

Im sorry, i should have mentioned that i unplugged that wire to get easier access to the spot it was connected to.

 

[Steve]

Im sorry, i should have mentioned that i unplugged that wire to get easier access to the spot it was connected to.

I have not seen a solenoid that has a plug on the yellow/green trigger wire. :-k

The clutch "safety" switch was mentioned in posts 4 and 6. Follow the wires from the switch on the left handlebar (they are the wires that start near the clutch lever pivot), down to the headlight bucket. You will have to remove the headlight to reveal the mess inside, but look for two yellow/green wires with bullet connectors. Separate both connectors, then take the two wires that are on the main harness side and connect them to each other. This leaves the clutch switch completely out of the circuit, and the bike thinks the switch is enabled. Be aware that by doing this, if the bike is not in neutral, IT WILL MOVE when you press the starter button (assuming everything is working as it should). It will still be good practice to visually ensure the neutral light is ON and maybe even still pull the clutch lever, but now it will not be mandatory when you are doing maintenance.

.