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Slide sticking symptoms....

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
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Anonymous

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Hello!
This is my first post here, and I would like to thank everyone for the wonderful source of info I have been able to find. I am the proud new owner of a 1982 GS650G it was given to me, garage kept, 18,000 miles, and never been laid over..
The bike sat in a garage for 2-1/2 years, I recently took out the carbs and found that one of the slides was sticking, thus making the needle stick in the open position. I assumed I had a float problem because of the amount of fuel dumping out.. but the float seems to operate perfectly. Can the sticking of the slide cause the over flow of gas? I would like to verify that this is possible before I put the carb back in and fail to make a difference..
Thanks
Tom
 
No that wouldn't cause an overflow, check the float needle, and the o-ring that goes around it. It doesn't take much to leak. Also check to make sure your petcock is working properly.
 
Thanks for the reply,
Being new at carbs in general, I believe I was mistaking the float needle with the needle on the slide. to check the float needle, I need to remove the float, and the needle should slide right out.. correct? I will give it a shot and put her back together tomorrow.. thanks for the help
Tom
 
Look in the carb cleanup series of the forum for diagrams. There is a screw & tab that holds the needle seat into the carb body. Remove it and pull the seat out. There is an O ring on the seat assembly that you should replace.
 
I just went through the same thing on mine. Tried to disassemble and clean the carbs without replacing the o-rings. Leaked all over the place. Put in new o-rings and everything's great now. Those old o-rings get set in their shape and when you re-install them they just aren't flexible enough to seal to their new position.
 
I have seen posts in here about carb rebuild kits, can I get a set of o-rings from auto zone, or NAPA? Or do I need to order them special from the dealership?
Thanks again for the info.. I cant wait to start cruising!
Tom
 
dgeorge said:
If they are the CV type carbs you can get a set of the o-rings from a guy named Robert Barr http://home.att.net/~robert.barr/#Outside of the I think they are about 12-13 bucks for the set.
Click to expand...

Yep, that's the way to go. All the o-rings you need and no waiting weeks for a special order through a dealer. (Still $12 a set, including shipping, as of a couple of weeks ago). But, like dgeorge said, they are for the CV carbs.
You ever get the slide to move freely?
I'd think polishing it with some very fine emeory cloth/paper would help. 1500 grit or better?
 
Yep!, Got all of the slides working fine.. the carbs are actually pretty clean, I am having a hell of a time with the weak screws on em though, first turn with a screw driver and the things melt like butter.. :x then I have to resort to using vice-grips to get them out.. everything else has been a breeze.. can I replace that hardware with a matching screw (bolt) from home depot? or are they specially made? I will check out the site you listed for the o-rings.. Thanks!!
Tom
 
MAGICTOM said:
Yep!, Got all of the slides working fine.. the carbs are actually pretty clean, I am having a hell of a time with the weak screws on em though, first turn with a screw driver and the things melt like butter.. :x then I have to resort to using vice-grips to get them out.. everything else has been a breeze.. can I replace that hardware with a matching screw (bolt) from home depot? or are they specially made? I will check out the site you listed for the o-rings.. Thanks!!
Tom
Click to expand...

I read on here recently about someone replacing the screws, in particular the ones that hold the top cover on, with allen heads. Sounded like a great idea, like you said the heads tend to strip out.
I wouldn't think they'd need to be of any special type or grade though. Just whatever Lowe's (or you local hardware store) has.
 
Ok, I have been reading all morning here on this site, I have come to the conclusion that I may be jumping the gun on the carb clean-out.. Dummy me, I have not checked the air filter yet to see what kind of shape it is in.. nor have I replaced my plugs. I pulled the plug on cylinder 1, and it was wet and black running VERY rich.. I put a new plug in this one cylinder and it started for about 6 seconds, I pulled it back out, and the new plug had already turned black.. I put some seafoam carb cleaner in the gas, (I hope not too much), but what I want to confirm before I rip apart the carb any more, is, can fouled spark plugs, a dirty air filter, or too much carb cleaner.. cause the carbs to over flow??and spill gas out of the tubes ganging down near the rear tire? Thanks!!
Tom

and by the way! awesome idea on the allen type screws.. I am heading to Lowes at lunch
c-ya
 
Lowes has the allen head screws..they are a perfect match, only problem is, they didnt have enough.. . They are also heavy duty screws, and I was assured by the "Lowes Guy" that they would not break off..anyway, I will probably go ahead and do a complete cleaning and tear down of the carbs while I have them out.. thanks again for all of the great info
Tom
 
WOOO HOOO!!!! Found the culprit!.. I know it may be simple for you GS Guru's out there, but it is quite an accomplishment for me.. I have never worked on a bike befor last saturday.. and I have sucessfully pulled the carbs out, and found the stuck float needle in carb #2.. I pressed down on the float and the needle popped loose.. Sorry about the excitement, I have just been scared to death that I took of the carbs for no reason.. I will keep you updated
Tom
 
Tom, glad you found the problem. Since you already have the carbs off go ahead and do a through cleaning and replace the o-rings. It won't take long and it will ensure that you hopefully won't have future problems from them.
 
Well, I finished cleaning the carbs last night, and installed them back on the bike.. I found a stuck float, and 2 clogged jets. I got the bike fully re-assembled about 1:00 this morning, and loved every second of it.. despite all of the *&$^#(@ and $)$@ words I found myself repeating about every 10 minutes.

Here is where I am now..
Starts right up
Idles fine
pipe 4 is not getting hot
I can rev the engin in neutral, and get good RPM's
but if I take it on the road and give it some gas, it boggs down
I put new plugs in last night, and changed the oil as well.

cylinder 1 was not getting hot at first, then I wiggled the plug wire around and it kicked in.. I was not as luck with 4. Although, if I banged on the top of the plug wire, the engine would rev a bit each time I hit it.
Also, it seemed to have a mind of its own..
when I got it on the road, it would take off and acellerate when it wanted.. wierd... I would have to hold the clutch in and rev it even higher to get it to stop..

well, I hope these descriptions are clear, I didnt have much time to trouble shoot it last night, you should have heard my wife's language when I got it running (in the carport, next to her bedroom window, at 1:00 AM) she was NOT happy.

I will dink with it some more tonight.
C-ya
Tom
 
well, no luck..
Cylinder 4 is still not getting hot, and cylinder 1 is of and on..
sometimes it hits and sometimes it does not..
However, I took the bike out for a test run and I could hit 70 mph .. would this be possible on just 2 cylinders???

I am going to try to adjust the points.. (if it has any) or at least take a look at them tonight.. I dont know much about them, but I have a couple of hours left here at work to look through this site.
(I dont even know where they are located on the bike *L*)
anyway.. my plugs in 1,2, & 3 look about the same.. just a little light in color.. not white but getting there. the plug in #4 still looks brand new. it is giving off a spark, but it is not a fat arc like the manual describes.. its more like a tiny little blue star.
not a strong spark but still gave me quite a zap..

If I am learning things correctly here on this site, if #4 is giving a weak spark, the plug should get dark with carbon due to excess fuel not burning off..is that logical?. I checked the float bowl and it was full of gas.

I will try to switch the coil wires around tonight and see if 2 and 3 stay cold.. if it can be done, I see a lot of varying opinions on different coils and I have no idea which description fits the coil on a gs650g.. guess we'll find out.

any ideas?

Tom
 
Me again, I just had an Idea..
If my petkock is restricted in any way, is it possible that the gas flow is sufficient enough to make it to carbs 2 and 3 being that the fuel supply hose runs into the middle of the line-up?
and 2 & 3 use too much fuel up out of that flow, finally starving 1 and 4?.. just a thought, I may be barking up the wrong tree going after the ignition system..

thoughts will be greatly appreciated

Tom
 
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