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Slow Reacting Tachometer

  • Thread starter Thread starter Wazzaman
  • Start date Start date
W

Wazzaman

Guest
Hi Folks , Have been looking around in the forum for some time now waiting for my Gs1000g to arrive from Victoria ,Australia to my home State of Tasmania. My question is that the tachometer is slow to react but eventually catches up , has any one experienced this issue and could assist me in repairing the problem . Regards Warwick
 
Simplest and easiest would be to clean and lubricate the cable and the input of the tacho. This will sort many cases of the needle lagging behind and then jumping to catch up. In bad cases of cable wind up you can hear a whiny droney noise from the general direction of the fork clamps.
If that doesn't do it you are getting into a take it all apart, clean and grease exercise. There have been cases reported of the magnet ' going off ', hopefully not at that stage yet.

Welcome to the forum and in case you haven't yet found it http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/
 
broken cable. the ends where its broken are still biting into each other for some grip. OR the tacho need sorting. Only one way to check. Oh to the garage in the morning
 
Thank you all for the quick response , I have a couple of days off so as you say to the shed to sort it out, just one other question has any members taken a taco apart and is there a procedure etc , Cheers Wazzaman
 
Never a Taco, but a Tacho yes. If its ure pride and joy for that sort of stuff leave it to professionals. Hunt down some vintage people and ask them who does guages.
 
My 750 was doing that as well...bought a new cable and still slow to respond. Sprayed some seafoam into the tack and it was fixed. Wish I would have done that before buying the new cable...lol
 
Opening the clocks is not such a big deal. The tricky bit is prising open the bezel bit by bit so that it wont look too mutilated going back. Be sure to exhaust all cable and external lubrication possibilities before going in like I didn't.
 
Thanks everyone for there help I will try the seafoam first
 
Hi ,Back with some interesting updates on the Tacho/Speedo issue I was having, Spent yesterday removing the Bezel by the small screwdriver method just working my way around the metal ring. Now the original problem was the dials in both gauges where slow to react so cleaned out the cable input gland with Electrical contact cleaner from CRC and watched the fluid turn a very dark brown colour while it cleaned out 30 + years of built up gunk. Then attached a small 3mm key steel to a battery drill and proceeded to go forward back until the gland loosened right up. Reattached the needle which by the way I removed by using two tea spoons to lever it off( this worked really well ) and watched the response of the indicator to be back to normal falling straight back to the small stop when stopping the drill. Also the fuel gauge wasn't working but turns out to be the yellow 12v power supply wire to the gauge. So had a very successful day but two question to those members out there ,
What is is small looks like a tube light ,diode inside the speedo for ?
Would love to know where to buy new decals or solid dial faces before re assembling the dials so any help there would be greatly appreciated
Cheers Wazzaman
 
Wazzaman said:
What is is small looks like a tube light ,diode inside the speedo for ?
Would love to know where to buy new decals or solid dial faces before re assembling the dials so any help there would be greatly appreciated
Cheers Wazzaman
Click to expand...
That is a magnetic reed switch. If you looked carefully while you had your gauge apart, you should have seen a cone attached to the gland that is driven by the cable. Inside that cone is a magnet that drives the disk that is attached to the needle. The reed switch on the speedo senses that magnet. Its opening and closing is interpreted by the TSCU (turn signal control unit) to tell it when to automatically stop the turn signal from flashing.

You are going to have to try harder to stump this crew.

Oh, yeah, it has blue/red and black/red wires attached to it.

.
 
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