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Snapped Exhaust Port Thread.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Peteyboy
  • Start date Start date
P

Peteyboy

Guest
Good afternoon,
Firstly, apologies for my layman's terms?I'm new to this.

Bought somebody else's half finished project, which I will learn from. (Never do this, is the lesson!)

Was attaching the exhaust today and on one of the ports, the actually wall of the head (where the bolt goes in) has snapped off all the way back.

Now I have googled this and all I can get is 'broken exhaust stud' or 'bolt needs drilling out.' This isn't the problem.

Are there any ways around this, or do I have to try and find a full new head for it? (Bike is an '85 GS650GT)

All other bolts go in fine and everything else is now working as it should.

Its so frustrating!

Help please!
 
What do you mean by "all the way back"????? Is it way down the hole and there are lots of threads near the face of the head where the stud goes in?? If its broke off deep in the hole and there are sufficient threads to get a bolt in, then I would just use a CHASE....not a cutting tap..and clean the threads..then just use a shorter bolt that will allow you to fit up the pipe. Leave the broke piece in as it is of no consequence at that point.

Give a more in depth summary of what there is to deal with please.
 






Hi Chuck,

Thanks for the reply. Ive just nipped out and taken a picture to try and better describe.

The first picture is how it should look.

The second picture shows how all of the metal (which contains the thread for the bolt to go into) has been snapped off at some point.

So there is nowhere for the bolt to go?

Hope this explains better...
 
Looks like you can get that fixed pretty easily, but you will probably be better off removing the head to take it into a shop.

Call around and find someone who can weld aluminum and they could advise you if you need to disassemble the engine or not.

Best way would be for them to build the area up and then drill and tap to accept a new bolt.

Good luck.
 
( To ME ) it looks like they have just knackered up the outer rim badly. Take a wire and stick in the hole to see if you can get at a minimum of say 10MM of depth or more..the original holes are around 40MM deep and the bolts are around 35MM from shoulder to tip.

So, if you have sufficient depth, you can just use a Dremel or similar to smooth off the face to get to some decent threads again, then run the chase, and work a bolt in. Once youve established the bolt goes in, use one that will allow you to seat it with some space at the bottom. You DO NOT want to use too long a bolt. There are oil gallies in the head and you dont want the bolt to opunch thru the head...bad bad JU JU follows!!!
 
Ah, this is what I was thinking. Really gutted as it has taken me so long to get to this stage.

Really appreciate the reply, thanks Kiwi.
 
Haha thanks Chuck, I'll give that a go first. Cheers guys.
 
Another thought.....Youre gonna be removing material off the one side which will most likely make the flange set cocked to that side. I would place a washer between the flange and the head there so that when you tighten the bolts they draw the flange up and keep it as level from side to side as is reasonably possible. This will keep excess side forced stress off the header bolts.
 
If I'm understanding this right, you stripped the threads in the head without any of the stud remaining in the head, same as I did,in which case I used a longer stud 60 mm overall if I remember correctly and there was sufficient depth and thread to accommodate this stud without any engineering work. This was an 82 1100 so I don't know if your head will accept same studs. Hope this helps.
 
As I understand it, the previous owner has beat it up. I would run a wire down the hole and find the REAL depth without any assumptions. Make a wrong "guess" and youre done.
 
I'd go with a stud instead of a bolt. In fact I'd go studs on all the exhaust bolt holes. Use a bottoming tap to thread it back. If the current threads are too wallowed out then go with a Helicoil and be done with it.
 
As previously mentioned,

Make no assumptions as to the depth of the hole/threads, they may be different

and

I'd go with stud's on all the exhaust bolt holes.
 
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