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SO about my 80 850g thing...

  • Thread starter Thread starter ANON888CAFE
  • Start date Start date
A

ANON888CAFE

Guest
I've done the carb dip. Rejetted. I have to replace two carb bodies; one because the float pin support was broken apparently from rust in the tank and replaced with random pin by PO or somesuch, the other I did the not-so-soft-touch-drilling method through the air needle plug. I'm going to order a V&H 4into1 exhaust next weekend. I have the cheap imgo or uni (can't remember brand) pod filters with oilsoaked xtra filter film stuff. Also in the next week or so I'm going to buy a new R/r, Stator, and ignition sys. So my question is, will this likely solve my "stalling" at anything beyond about 4.5 rpm. I can't lay on the throttle passed about 5.5 rpm else the engine sputters and bogs. At best my friend described it as a bronchial redline putter. It pops on engine breaking so I know it's running too lean for the region i live. (rockymtn area) I was a dumbass early on and chopped the exhaust just after the foot pegs near what I'd foolishly assumed was the end of the baffle. I know. Stoopid. But done, so I've been fighting this calibration war of attrition ever since. I've also pondered the idea of making a vaccuum tester for the carbs. Yah i know they're cheap but i'm in a spot. Things can be created easier than afforded at times. Bear with me. Or bare with me and we're all nuts... I've noted from other searches on the site that the leaness of my engine setup could be pretty damaging. I haven't done a valve adjustment yet as suggested in most prescribed reading here, but i'm hoping to do this in the coming days, tools can be rented. So really, am i on the right track? As in the two most important things i need to do next are exhaust and valve adjustment?...
 
You've managed to do everything possible to make your bike run poorly

For now, order a valve tool and valve cover gasket and set the valves. The shim club can get you any shims you need.

Then, install the exhaust system

Did you add the pods, or did it come without the airbox?

Your best solution is a Dynojet or Factory jet kit

Remember, it should be leaner at altitude to maintain the stoichiometric ratio
 
Yah, T, I've fidured that out.

Yes I titotally need a valve tool. Was planning on ordering that when I get the exhaust.

I rejetted w dynajet stage 3 with the largest jets.

I did add the pods due to stock airbox boots decayed. Went w cheap but plan to order k&n next cpl weeks.

And when you say leaner, I did the plug check and it showed very little coloration either way, do I want it even leaner since I ride up in elevation daily?
 
Good luck with the valve tool. :rolleyes:

Zip-ties are MUCH quicker, at least in my case. :D

A LOT cheaper, too. :p

.
 
ANON888CAFE said:
Yah, T, I've fidured that out.

Yes I titotally need a valve tool. Was planning on ordering that when I get the exhaust.

I rejetted w dynajet stage 3 with the largest jets.

I did add the pods due to stock airbox boots decayed. Went w cheap but plan to order k&n next cpl weeks.

And when you say leaner, I did the plug check and it showed very little coloration either way, do I want it even leaner since I ride up in elevation daily?
Click to expand...

No, I mean that the recommended jetting in the DJ kit should be too rich because you're up higher
 
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