• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

So I got a stock filter box installed today...

  • Thread starter Thread starter Crage
  • Start date Start date
C

Crage

Guest
And she isn't wanting to idle now. She dies unless I'm giving some gas or reving. So I'm gonna guess you guys are gonna say my next step is to clean the carbs (valve adjustment has been done). I have the o rings from cycle orings to do the job, I just wanted to ride for a week or so first :) . I just need some affirmation here.

The bike ran well before and started on the first start every time. Even after sitting. The bike has always had an air box but the filter box was missing, with a filter rigged up in its place. Which of course still gave it more air than if the box was there, I understand this, I just wanted to give the full back ground.

Now with the stock filter and air box in place. I had to crank the bike 5-6 times with full choke, to even get it to start, and then it wouldnt idle at all without a little choke or throttle. The bike also hesitated with some quick throttle. So do I mess with the idle adjustment or do I go on and pull the carbs and do the cleaning? I have also noticed that the #2 and 3 carbs are missing the air box to carb boot clamps. I'm pretty sure I know the answer, but I wanted to do some riding before I dug into the carbs :( .
 
I was also putting off spending the 100 bucks on the carb sync gauges...
 
I would have thought it would have started easier with the filter box on more restriction means richer, more fuel unless what ever you were using as a filter was really restricted. and yes you probably need to do the carbs cause If i don't say it some one else will.
 
I would have thought it would have started easier with the filter box on more restriction means richer, more fuel unless what ever you were using as a filter was really restricted.
And yes you probably need to do the carbs cause If i don't say it some one else will.

LMAO!!! So true. To nauseaum in fact. ;)

Eric





P.S. It still will be mentioned by those that are to lazy to read the first post forward anyway.
 
Welllll.... My theory is that when the PO installed that filter set up, he adjusted the idle due to a high idle. So now with the filter box, restricting the air flow, the idle is set so low that it dies. Plausible?
 
IF the carbs are clean enough to flow gas then I'd say the PO messed with the idle and idle mixture screws to compensate for the more air flow.
He/She may have even changed the jetting. No way to know until you dig into them.
 
Well the PO or the PO's mechanic has definitely done some work on it because all of the valves were in spec. Only 1 was a little tight, but was still in spec.

The carbs are definitely clean enough to flow gas. I rode the bike 5-6 times with the original set up described and it ran great... No idle problems, no get up and go problems.

My biggest fear of tearing into things is that I'll never get it running right again, once I start tearing things apart.
 
Just wondering...but did you try turning the idle speed knob yet?
 
Don't bother cleaning the carbs yet.

Crank the Idle up and see if that helps.
Also, did you reset all the mixture screws to factory?
(The PO could have been playing with those to accommodate the Lean conditions of running without the box/filter.)
 
Just wondering...but did you try turning the idle speed knob yet?

Nope, I have not. In or out to speed up?


Don't bother cleaning the carbs yet.

Crank the Idle up and see if that helps.
Also, did you reset all the mixture screws to factory?
(The PO could have been playing with those to accommodate the Lean conditions of running without the box/filter.)

I'll give it a whirl tonight. I won't have much time to mess with it till next week. (My GF is visiting :lol:)
 
There can be NO airleaks...anywhere....if you're missing some of the boots then there is a massive air leak.

Disassemble the carbs, dip them properly, check, check and re'check that you have the stock jets, set the float height and bench sync them. Seal up all the airleaks as required. :)

Edit;; Did you get the lid with your "new" airbox ? They are usually missing.
 
Yes I got the lid with it, its in great shape. I'm not missing boots, I'm missing a couple of the boot clamps from the air box to carbs. I think the main issue is that the PO had adjusted the idle to match his after market filter, so now with the stock air filter and box the restricted air flow has lowered the idle so low it wont stay a live. I'm going to try adjusting it tonight.
 
If it wasn't 'broke', why are you 'fixing' it?


Lol I usually live by this motto, being a tradesman for a living. Everyone on here has got me paranoid that my bike aint right unless I've torn her down and cleaned everything :P Im a maintenance freak. I like peace of mind
 
Yes I got the lid with it, its in great shape. I'm not missing boots, I'm missing a couple of the boot clamps from the air box to carbs. I think the main issue is that the PO had adjusted the idle to match his after market filter, so now with the stock air filter and box the restricted air flow has lowered the idle so low it wont stay a live. I'm going to try adjusting it tonight.


Those missing clamps will make a difference. The airbox must be fully sealed in all ways otherwise the bike won't run right. Also, you don't know the condition of the carbs nor what jets are inside. Lots of unknowns.
 
Yeap I agree Ness. I adjusted the idle screw and could get it to idle at 2k but anything lower made it sound like it was gonna die. I put the after market filter back on and could get it to idle pretty good. I took it for a spin around the block and noticed the beginnings of a little back fire, not full fledged but very small ones.

I also noticed that my #2 and #3 headers are leaking at the exhaust gaskets. Guess I need to put new gaskets on the list.

Welp it looks like, after this weekend, I will be tearing the carbs down to dip and oring... I was delaying the inevitable I guess... How will I know if the jets are stock or not?
 
Last edited:
Yeap I agree Ness. I adjusted the idle screw and could get it to idle at 2k but anything lower made it sound like it was gonna die. I put the after market filter back on and could get it to idle pretty good. I took it for a spin around the block and noticed the beginnings of a little back fire, not full fledged but very small ones.

I also noticed that my #2 and #3 headers are leaking at the exhaust gaskets. Guess I need to put new gaskets on the list.

Welp it looks like, after this weekend, I will be tearing the carbs down to dip and oring... I was delaying the inevitable I guess... How will I know if the jets are stock or not?

There's a sticky thread in this section, called OEM carb specs or something similar. Your jets will have numbers stamped on them. Compare to specs thread.

As for the needle, you'll have to check to see what notch the clip is in.
 
Thank you! Going to order some new exhaust packing while I'm at it.
 
Don't forget the manifold O-rings on the Carb side of the head. They can be a pain to get at, but if you don't replace them now you will end up pulling it back apart to do them later.

As many have stated many times.. . There are no shortcuts! Follow the tutorial to the letter. Don't try to cheat, you're just cheating yourself.


The leaking exhaust can cause popitty pop-pop... on deceleration. Those gaskets can be a pain if you twist of a bolt or two. Spray the bolts down with PB blaster a few days before you touch them with a wrench. Gentle Gentle! Good luck.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top