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Solder vs. engine heat

Larry D

Larry D

Forum Sage
Past Site Supporter
My tach cable came loose from the u channel fitting. Think it'll hold if I solder it? Is the heat from the engine hot enough to re-melt the solder?:-k
 
I wouldn't bother trying to solder the cable - the metal is contaminated with grease which will make the repair very difficult and a new cable is only about $20.
 
Nessism said:
I wouldn't bother trying to solder the cable - the metal is contaminated with grease which will make the repair very difficult and a new cable is only about $20.
Click to expand...

I already did. If I had a camera handy, I'd take a pic.:o
So, think the solder will re-melt from the heat of the engine?
 
Larry D said:
I already did. If I had a camera handy, I'd take a pic.:o
So, think the solder will re-melt from the heat of the engine?
Click to expand...

No, it shouldn't.

The temps at that point on the cylinder head are usually between 200-300 degrees. I think solder usually melts at around 600 degrees, depending on the compound.

It won't hurt anything to try, anyway, as long as the cable didn't end up shorter.
 
Larry D said:
I already did. If I had a camera handy, I'd take a pic.:o
So, think the solder will re-melt from the heat of the engine?
Click to expand...

What kind of solder did you use? At any rate, I doubt the cable gets hot enough to melt solder. Hope it holds for you.
 
bwringer said:
No, it shouldn't.

The temps at that point on the cylinder head are usually between 200-300 degrees. I think solder usually melts at around 600 degrees, depending on the compound.

It won't hurt anything to try, anyway, as long as the cable didn't end up shorter.
Click to expand...

There wasn't any shreds of cable in the housing when I took it apart, so I think the cable simply came loose from the u-chanel fitting. I'll find out tonight when I put it back together.

Nessism: I think it is 30/70 resin core? The label on the spool is torn and difficult to read.

I guess the worst that can happen is that it will come back apart.

Thanks Guys.
 
Before soldering it is essential to clean the surfaces completely.


I tried squeezing /crimping the joint to make it work, and discovered the U-fitting is a poor quality metal and it splits.

That said, a bit of squeezing of the u-joint while the solder is hot will help to increase the friction component and make it last longer, but it is easy to press too hard and break it even then.


I got so annoyed with mine quitting and breaking I made one from a piece of brass, fitted it, soldered and squeezed it, and it has been in place ever since.
 
I'm going to guess that the solder is too brittle to last for long. This thing needs to flex, and solder isn't known for it's flexability. Good luck anyway, but for the pocket change a cable costs I'd go with a new one.
 
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