Solid State Power Box

[salty_monk]

Its about time someone did this.This will take off and you will end up having to do some for the other brands of bikes . You will end up filthy rich and have nothing to do with us any more. Then all your stuff will be made in china, making you even richer. Lucky dog... :clap:

Oh goody... I can build them for him

 

[cableguy]

Subscribed! This little box of magic will be assurance of reliability that many havent had for a long time, and even at $150 is a bargain for the time, headache and down time that will be saved.

It also seems like this could be applied to other bikes, no? Variances in connectors obviously, but anything else? Maybe series vs shunt with r/r, but if all the systems of a bike are supported, arebthey really much different across makes and models?

If you would like an 1150 to test it on I would be honored to help.

 

[posplayr]

Its about time someone did this.This will take off and you will end up having to do some for the other brands of bikes . You will end up filthy rich and have nothing to do with us any more. Then all your stuff will be made in china, making you even richer. Lucky dog... :clap:

Thanks I'm hoping there will be interest if this thing can be made bullet-proof. I'm pressing on. I ordered most everything for a test set so I can do detailed developmental test and burn in testing if there is ever any production :dancing:

The remainder of the BOM will be here Thursday and I can finish up the layout.

 

[posplayr]

Oh goody... I can build them for him

I was thinking about asking you for the metal bits, but you do PCB's as well?

 

[posplayr]

Subscribed! This little box of magic will be assurance of reliability that many havent had for a long time, and even at $150 is a bargain for the time, headache and down time that will be saved.

It also seems like this could be applied to other bikes, no? Variances in connectors obviously, but anything else? Maybe series vs shunt with r/r, but if all the systems of a bike are supported, arebthey really much different across makes and models?

If you would like an 1150 to test it on I would be honored to help.

I don't know why not, I would need to get into the details of how they are wired, but first things first.

I'll keep the R/R separate. It should not matter if your burn your stator with a shunt R/R or keep it cool with the SERIES models. The SSPB should not care.

I'll keep you in mind for testing. At the moment I have measured the currents on my ESD, and am going to load/stress test with an instrumented tester/short simulator.

Not sure you will want to short your harness out to stress test the unit?

 

[cableguy]

At least I know who to call for tech support!

 

[JEEPRUSTY]

So lemme get my head around the relay thing. This will replace horn and coil mods and what else?

Regardless make me one ASAP. This is not a winter project and deserves my unique stress testing abilities.

 

[posplayr]

So lemme get my head around the relay thing. This will replace horn and coil mods and what else?

Regardless make me one ASAP. This is not a winter project and deserves my unique stress testing abilities.

Just think of the fuse box as having 4 relays in it. Power from R/R battery will come in on the two big RED individual wires. (see diagram)

The 10 Pin connector with have 5 circuits, 4 will be switched (with smart protection) and 1 remaining one is switched and electronically fused; There will be 4 wires coming into the fuse box from 4 different switches to turn the 4 smart FET relays on and off as desired.

There is a limit to how many circuits without making it keep getting larger and larger and especially the connector the connector. He are the most likely configurations:

By powering the O/W using the Kill switch you get an ignition relay mod.

By disabling the O/R using the start button you get most of a Headlamp relay mod (it is not a full mod as primary current still runs through the left hand.

The Signal O/G will be controlled from the ignition switch.

The ACC SWITCHED can be controlled with another switch like horn button for a horn relay mod.

Phones and battery chargers should be connected to the UN SWITCHED RED.

There are probable some other combinations but this are probably the main ones.

For the kill switch and horn button there will have to be some changes inside the switch to get the polarity right.

This is helping, after going through some of the combinations I realized it was best to provide independent control of all the FET controlled circuits.

 

[Guest]

This is the real deal guys and girls.
I'm watching it take shape!
I'm building a couple of bikes and I get to try it out when complete!

 

[salty_monk]

I was thinking about asking you for the metal bits, but you do PCB's as well?

If you have the volume we can make the whole thing as long as it's not too "micro". We have pick & place line, soldering station etc.
Make a lot of Remote control & receiver board stuff... Actually we even have our own brand which has been going for years: http://www.heddolf.net/HOME.html

 

[posplayr]

If you have the volume we can make the whole thing as long as it's not too "micro". We have pick & place line, soldering station etc.
Make a lot of Remote control & receiver board stuff... Actually we even have our own brand which has been going for years: http://www.heddolf.net/HOME.html

I'm buying enough parts for about 25 units at the moment along with a test setup. I'm going to need some 0.120-0.090" heat sink plates (0.250" max if price is not prohibitive) in the outline of the fuse box foots (newer style slant bolt pattern and older symmetrical bolt pattern. Also a small 0.250" approx 1.0"x0.5". stick of aluminum for a heat sink.

Working on a prototype at the moment. It is a biatch without a PCB.:-#

 

[salty_monk]

I'm buying enough parts for about 25 units at the moment along with a test setup. I'm going to need some 0.120-0.090" heat sink plates (0.250" max if price is not prohibitive) in the outline of the fuse box foots (newer style slant bolt pattern and older symmetrical bolt pattern. Also a small 0.250" approx 1.0"x0.5". stick of aluminum for a heat sink.

Working on a prototype at the moment. It is a biatch without a PCB.:-#

Yep... for us volume has 3 or preferably 4 zeros following the first number

 

[posplayr]

Never really thought about it so I went to the net looking. Found theese:

The top one is more like mine.

Middle and bottom are basically the same except the middle one has an accessories connection and fuse. Maybe there are more...IDK.

The connector would be impossible to make universal for all....But can the box have 4 holes on it? (2 left-top-center and 2 right-bottom-center) The installer get to choose two holes and ignore two. That would reduce the number of models to keep on hand.

As for the wirring can there be an adaptor "Harness" for the older bikes? Or is there some circuit that would endup with two fuse or sum such non desirable connections?

Daniel

Sorry, I'm just catching back up to this thread. I'm working on the layout as I think the design has come together pretty well.


My plan was to offer different mounting plates to match the two hole patterns either diagonal (as in the first picture) or horizontal as in the second/third. The basic size is still 2.0"x4"x1.5" (or there abouts). Don't want to commit till the layout is done. It is getting a bit more squashed.

As far as connectors, with the functionality I'm adding at the moment (4 switched and 1 un-switched power circuits) I'm going to need 10 position connector in addition to three discrete wires:

• Battery(+)
• R/R(+)
• Single point ground

I don't think there is any point to an adapter harness as there are only 7 or the 10 wires available even in the top fuse box.

I should mention that I'm making the box jumper-able for either high side or low side control for the Switched ACC. That means that it would be easy to either wire your horn button (that grounds were active) to the 4th circuit to power Hons. If can also be jumper-ed for high side control which means you apply 12V and the circuit comes on. If you leave it open then it just powers with the ignition switch.

The other circuit is for the Headlamp and if you run the start button output to the SSPB (Y/G wire that goes to the solenoid), then it will cut out that circuit when cranking the engine.

The other two enables are for the ignition switch and the Kill switch which I can see getting away from those two.

During my testing the circuit protection worked great. I did a short test and the FET's limited the current to 12A before a thermal limit shutting it off. Basically you can do anything with the output and the device just turns it off if there is too much demand. remove the short and everything is back to normal. I have gone out on a limb a bit to add a buzzer along with teh flashing RED LED. This should only come on in case of a fault. The LED is kind of mandatory, but I realized that it is also under a cove and can't be seen so unless someone wants to put a remote flasher on the dash, you wont know and that is where the buzzer come in. I also have a jumper to disable it if you realize there is a problem and it is just bugging you.

 

[posplayr]

Yep... for us volume has 3 or preferably 4 zeros following the first number

Well that would be nice, but for the moment it will have to be 25 units

 

[Matchless]

Very interesting and a brilliant idea!

Just a question or two:

Will your unit have any sort of warning when a circuit has been automatically cut due to a short?
I had a Harley here with a short to ground in the handlebar switch and the audible ticking of the 15A auto fuse was an immediate clue.

Lets say you have installed it in place of a 5 fuse unit, will there be an indication as to which circuit is switched out during a fault?

Will you have any manual method of isolating a "fused" circuit to allow easy fault finding? Based on pulling a fuse.

 

[posplayr]

Can anybody give me some accurate dimensions on either of the fusebox styles above? I need the overall width and length of the box itself without the mounting tabs or connector. And then include the center to center width of the mounting holes.

If you have a caliper to be within +/-0.020" that would be great.

 

[subid]

The one in top photo is looks like mine

L - 3.525
W - 1.535
C/C - 2.270

 

[posplayr]

The one in top photo is looks like mine

L - 3.525
W - 1.535
C/C - 2.270

Thanks, that means the principle widths are the same as the later spade type fuse box and I'm good with the box I'm working with . It will be a little tight and need allen head screws to mount but look like it will fit in the OEM locations without having to relocate holes (width of the SSPB will be about 1.75").

 

[salty_monk]

I can probably do the other one... looks like the GS1000 one. I even have a spare you could borrow if it would help.

 

[SVSooke]

The glass style off a 78 1000 is:
40mm wide
58mm long
35mm tall with the cover
58mm center to center at the mounting holes
72.5mm total width @ mount ears
Hope that helps