Solid State Power Box

[posplayr]

I want one.

I'll put you down; What Bike or what style base? (diagonal,symmetric or tabless)?

 

[Guest]

A quick update . I have most of the functional check out completed but Needed to change some resistors and so have some more parts coming in this week . I hope I will get back soon thereafter. I started on the housing and got a lot of the enclosure jigs made and nd have holes cut yesterday and started making heat sink base plates today. If I am able to stay on this and nothing comes up it looks like I can take some orders before the end of the month. Figure a couple more weeks after that for delivery depending upon the number of orders.

Good news indeed. Here's hoping nothing gets in your way this time!

 

[ChewedFood]

I'll put you down; What Bike or what style base? (diagonal,symmetric or tabless)?

Bike's an 83 750ED, I don't care what mount: I'll be making a custom box to go where the airbox was along with a smaller battery. Can you suggest a battery replacement that will take up less space, I don't understand electricity. Also, I'm basing my rebuild around your product so I hope you don't get too caught up with other things.

 

[ChewedFood]

Also, I'm basing my rebuild around your product so I hope you don't get too caught up with other things.

Sorry, I didn't mean to sound rude/impatient.

 

[posplayr]

Quick Update on the SSPB.

Things are going well and I'm looking to do most of the finally assembly for the first batch by the end of the Thanksgiving weekend. In the next couple of days I will be sending out emails and PM's to those people that I have on the list to confirm orders. I prefer emails because with the 147 pm limit I am already nearly filled just with the back and forth correspondence.

I have setup a new gmail account at:

SolidStatePowerBox@gmail.com

so I would prefer all inquiries to transition over there so I can keep track of orders and interest better.


Here is a picture of the three base options. Based on the interest so far I made up a mix of the three styles of heat sinks. I have made more of the tabless so if you think that is what you want please make sure you order that.

Here is a picture of 12 partially assembled PCB's. There are still a couple of open items that I can go either way. My plan is to fully populate the 10 pin Molex so that nobody has to worry about crimping the pins to insert into the connector. You just have to solder the pig tails into your harness.

I will not use pigtails on my bike , I will just crimp onto the harness wires. If you would prefer this and think you can do it because you have a descent crimper then I can just send a bare connector with the required pins. Unless you specify I will send the populated connector.

I have a Compufire on my bike, so I will be taking pictures of that. If somebody wants anything changed for your own install let me know it should not be too big of a problem but again this will be on an exception basis only. If you don't say anything you get the standard. At this point I'm not sure what peoples capabilities are with respect to crimping so I looking to do most of it.

Here is an introductory video showing a prototype SSBP working with the tests station. This should give you an idea of how it will work.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X2t5uqT84Vw&list=HL1385421022&feature=mh_lolz

 

[Guest]

Yabba Dabba Doo! Can't wait.

Quick question. If I have the coil real mod, would I remove it and go back to stock setup when installing this or is the relay mod still applicable?

Thanks again for all the work on this. This is gonna be great.

 

[Guest]

Worked for me. Great video btw. You gotta copy and paste it into your browser though.

 

[ptexotik]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X2t5uqT84Vw&list=HL1385421022&feature=mh_lolz

Daniel

cheers, however ya did that!

 

[SVSooke]

A slight word of caution here.I don't think this will fit in the stock fuse box location on a 78-9 GS1000.When I tried to fit a 83 750 blade type box to my 78 this happened http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=211189 .Other than that it's looking good Pos,to bad there's no way I can afford to get one now

 

[posplayr]

A slight word of caution here.I don't think this will fit in the stock fuse box location on a 78-9 GS1000.When I tried to fit a 83 750 blade type box to my 78 this happened http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=211189 .Other than that it's looking good Pos,to bad there's no way I can afford to get one now

I'm assuming this is the interference you are speaking of?

I don't quite understand as it seems that you had a clearance problem because you added an additional plate behind the fuse box to accommodate the diagonal vs. symmetrical tab styles which is what pushed the fuse box out further than you would have wanted.

With another look perhaps it was really the size of the blade fuse box that forced you to move it closer to the R/R and away from the rear frame member. In that case the tab less heat sink would have given you more room and would have avoided the added mounting plate.

Here are some pictures comparing the SSPB with the diagonal style and the symmetrical style. The SSPB selected with the appropriate tabs should avoid having to modify the mounting plate, although modify the plate adds additional flexibility. You actually seem to have plenty of room on that side plate as it is.

The blade style fuse box I have is 1 3/4" tall while the SSPB is no more than 1 5/8" and with the LED holders removed it is 1.5" + 1/16" for the un-recessed pan head screws.

I don't know how tall the symmetrical tab glass tube type fuse box is (some how it did not dawn on me to ask when people were making measurements).

This is how the SSPB should look on an ED/ESD; I had to trim the connector cover some and it is a little zorked but still better than leaving it off.

 

[ChewedFood]

I am so dumb. I thought this would get rid of the starter solenoid and that other relay and therefore save space. But whatever it's still neat and I said I would buy one so I will.

Wish I knew more about electronics, though.

 

[Stahlgrau333]

Is it too late to get on the 'list' for the initial run?

 

[posplayr]

Is it too late to get on the 'list' for the initial run?

No problem, what are you looking for? Diagonal/Symmetrical or Tabless? What bike?

 

[posplayr]

I am so dumb. I thought this would get rid of the starter solenoid and that other relay and therefore save space. But whatever it's still neat and I said I would buy one so I will.

Wish I knew more about electronics, though.

No it does not get rid of the starter relay, but perhaps the other (I'm not sure what you are referring to there)? Starter solenoid is really the least of your problems. The starter relay could easily be replaced with something 1/10 the size but I don't think it is enough of an issue to have to work that problem.

The SSPB is uses modern FET electronics to do the following in a more integrated way.


http://members.dslextreme.com/users...lay_modification_for_bike_v23_byMatchless.pdf

http://www.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/gs/SystemRelayMod-1.pdf

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/images/coil_relay_mod.html

 

[Stahlgrau333]

No problem, what are you looking for? Diagonal/Symmetrical or Tabless? What bike?

Current project is a '79 550, but everything is being moved / customized. 'Symmetrical' would probably work best.

 

[posplayr]

Current project is a '79 550, but everything is being moved / customized. 'Symmetrical' would probably work best.

Since you are redoing everything take a look at the tab less, it will use the least space and not rely on any existing holes.

Regardless I will put you down and send an email or pm soon.

 

[SVSooke]

I'm assuming this is the interference you are speaking of

I don't quite understand as it seems that you had a clearance problem because you added an additional plate behind the fuse box to accommodate the diagonal vs. symmetrical tab styles which is what pushed the fuse box out further than you would have wanted.

With another look perhaps it was really the size of the blade fuse box that forced you to move it closer to the R/R and away from the rear frame member. In that case the tab less heat sink would have given you more room and would have avoided the added mounting plate.

Here are some pictures comparing the SSPB with the diagonal style and the symmetrical style. The SSPB selected with the appropriate tabs should avoid having to modify the mounting plate, although modify the plate adds additional flexibility. You actually seem to have plenty of room on that side plate as it is.

The blade style fuse box I have is 1 3/4" tall while the SSPB is no more than 1 5/8" and with the LED holders removed it is 1.5" + 1/16" for the un-recessed pan head screws.

I don't know how tall the symmetrical tab glass tube type fuse box is (some how it did not dawn on me to ask when people were making measurements).


/QUOTE]
My bad,I forgot the plate I made to mount that boxHad to move it down to get it inside the cover .With the cover the glass fusebox is 35mm tall.I very happily retract my warning.

 

[Guest]

So, I'm trying to make sure I have the funds available for when this is ready being close to Christmas and all. Do you think the first run will be before the end of the year or after?

Also, I recall some mention of this doing away with the need for relay mods. Did I understand that correctly or am I way off?

Thanks again!

 

[posplayr]

My bad,I forgot the plate I made to mount that boxHad to move it down to get it inside the cover .With the cover the glass fusebox is 35mm tall.I very happily retract my warning.

So the glass bulb is only 35 mm (1.38") tall correct? So this actually shorter than the SSPB even without the LED protrusion (minimum of 1.56" or 1.63" with LED mounts ). As per your pictures the 78-9 GS1000 fusebox is the abbreviated short (in length) model and so the longer boxes have to move to the left on the mounting plate anyway. So even if the SSPB fit the small fuse box bolt pattern there is not enough room due to the frame. So the only relevant question is how much clearance is there under the cover in the location where you moved the longer blade fuse box.?

I understand that you had to cut 6mm off of the 83 750 blade type boxes cover to avoid interference but it also stuck out more due to the mounting plate. So if you don't mind, what is the total stack height of your plate and modified 83 750 fuse box. That is probably close to the maximum height available under the GS 1000 cover at the location where you moved your blade fuse box.

 

[posplayr]

So, I'm trying to make sure I have the funds available for when this is ready being close to Christmas and all. Do you think the first run will be before the end of the year or after?

Also, I recall some mention of this doing away with the need for relay mods. Did I understand that correctly or am I way off?

Thanks again!

I'm checking on when the decals will be finished. I put the order in a week ago and so they should be done soon or at least early next week. I'm confirming that now. (Updated I should have them by next Tues)

My plan is to have all the first batch units shipped by about the 8th of Dec with the first ones as early as next week. I only have a limited number of these at the moment and the PCB and housing are bonded to the heatsink using thermal epoxy, so I would like to get firm order before doing the bonding mainly so I know I am building the correct thing.

Bottom line I will be sending out payment requests before the end of the week as I also complete a couple of units for doing an install video.


As far as the relay mods using the SSPB, they are not necessary as the SSPB includes 5 electronic relays.

I don't know how you did your coil relay mod as there are several ways people do them. With the SSPB "Safe Power" will be applied to the O/W harness circuit at the fuse box location. So you would need to make sure that your coils and ignitor are still being powered after your first modification and the SSPB overlaid over that.

I dont know if you have any other relay mods, like the headlamp relay for example but with the SSPB you get 1/2 of a headlamp relay mod by powering the O/R circuit at the fuse box. The HEADLAMP circuit will cut out, and it does avoid running headlamp current through the ignition switch but the power will still routed downstream through your headlamp dimmer switch. To get around that you would need to add an additional relay, but we are talking only a 5 amp load through the headlamp switch so if you keep it clean (use Detoxit), then it is debateable whether you would get any benefit from anything more than the SSPB HEADLAMP circuit.


The ACC "safe power" channel provides an additional relay mod to power other accessories so again you would not need to provide a relay to add either horns or headlamps (either or but not both).


I guess if you wanted to go crazy with fusing and powering a bunch additional remote accessories you could add an additional SSPB's :dancing: but other than that you can put anything you want in parallel to the SSPB by connecting any other relays or fused accessories at the R/R(+) solder connection. By going in parallel you would have to provide the fusing required to protect those devices seperate from the SSPB.