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Solid State Power Box

Just a quick note to say I have sent you and email.
Let me know if you don't receive it.

cheers
Arron
 
Hi all,
I am now accepting orders for the Original SSPB with a Tabless Base (#3 in the picture at below). They will ship by Monday April 13[SUP]th[/SUP] if not before. There are stainless steel studs coming out the back and nylock stainless nuts are provided. Generally the wire will exit in the middle of the right hand side (looking at the face) but I can make adjustments that get into the early production but need to know beforehand.

If I have not contacted you recently or you have never contacted me, then send me an email at solidstatepowerbox@gmail.com.

If you are in the US then flat rate USPS is $8 so the Total to Paypal solidstatepowerbox@gmail.com is $158. Contact me if you are somewhere else. I generally use USPS for all international shipment as well.

The costs are :
Canada: add $21
New Zealand: add $25

I probably can combine up to two SSPB's in the same flat rate box so there would be free shipping for a second one.


SSPB_Kit_zps85a2a335.jpg
 
I'll take one.
I have one and have never thought about my electrical since. No issues.
 
Hi Posplayr,
Checking if there is any SSPB still available, Im slowly restoring my 78 GS1000c and getting to the electrical parts... reading ton of info in the forum about electrical upgrades, your SSPB seems to be a must. let me know if you have any left. Thanks
 
stoprunner said:
Hi Posplayr,
Checking if there is any SSPB still available, Im slowly restoring my 78 GS1000c and getting to the electrical parts... reading ton of info in the forum about electrical upgrades, your SSPB seems to be a must. let me know if you have any left. Thanks
Click to expand...

None at the moment, but I will keep you on a mailing list. Please email me at solidstatepowerbox@gmail.com for info on next availability. I'm hoping the new design is available by spring.
 
Cool, I'm glad your still working on them. I will want one come spring.
 
Installed the Solid state power box, An awesome upgrade to any bike, worth every penny and posplayr made an excellent with service and support!
Thanks for an excellent upgrade.

Had to replace mys stator, due to some typical GS issues, now running awesome.
Recoush
 
Are these still avail?

I am thinking these clean up the wiring and get rid of some not needed? Along with simplifying if something is wrong.

Thanks
Jeff
 
Posplayr, since you're the electrical authority on the forum and no longer make your SSPB would you mind making a recommendation on an alternate solution for those of us that are just now looking to upgrade our systems? M-unit??
 
From what I have read the SSPB is a great idea and a great product but not a wide enough audience. Sad part is the product dies off due to lack of sales :(
 
T8erbug said:
Posplayr, since you're the electrical authority on the forum and no longer make your SSPB would you mind making a recommendation on an alternate solution for those of us that are just now looking to upgrade our systems? M-unit??
Click to expand...


Interested as well. Wish I got to this sooner.
 
T8erbug said:
Posplayr, since you're the electrical authority on the forum and no longer make your SSPB would you mind making a recommendation on an alternate solution for those of us that are just now looking to upgrade our systems? M-unit??
Click to expand...

They are many factors that come into play and there are several alternatives although none is perfect as you probably realize. I assume the M-unit is popular as it makes building and entirely new harness easier especially if you want a lot of additional features. I designed the SSPB to be primarying a relay mod/fuse box replacement using a stock harness with minimal mods. The M-unit tires to add an electronics switch for every current carrying switch (like signal, horn,headlamp).

My first recommendation if your fuse box is not already melted is to do the following:

  • change to a Series R/R
  • Clean your existing connections with chemical cleaners and protectants. (flow solder into pigtail type with crimps)
  • Switch to LED bulbs as they dramatically reduce the current you have to carry.

Steve has been a proponent of using a single main relay to avoid overpowering the ignition switch. Adding this to any suitable fuse box especially when using LED's is probably going to be sufficient for most people. It tends to work because once you split the main current at the fusebox, no circuit is more than 5 amps standards and closer to 2-3 amps using LED. With LED the ignition is the largest are about 2.5 amps. If everything is clean that is a pretty low current.

For example a standard headlamp will draw about 5 amps average where as a LED is closer to 1.3-1.5 or usually not more than 2 amps.
Similarly the signal lights are down to about 1/8 of what an incandescent bulb might be. The brakes and blinkers can also draw 5 amps combined.

There is also a PD60 which is a solid state switch box but it s for accessories and has a high static current draw.
 
Last edited:
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