G
Guest
Guest
Where do you get these deals? 
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7
7981GS
Guest
Where do you get these deals?
Keep your eyes open for those vague ads.
This one just said "Suzuki $1,500.00"
Daniel
W
Whitedog
Guest
Good find. :dancing: That silver color is cool.
I bought one last spring for $900.00 and change. Cleaned the carbs, put in a new wire harness (po had messed up original) changed the fluids and now 6000 mi later am happy with it. Plenty of power, very smooth, runs to the ton in a hurry for a heavy weight. A bit of a pig in the twisties. It still runs circles around the VTwinn cruisers though.
A tip on the suspension. Put slightly longer spacers in the front forks and use the heavest fork oil you can find. It makes a huge difference. I am currently running HD heavy weight racing fork oil with an additional 3/4 inch of spacer. I have not bottomed out the forks since the change. I also have some sort of aftermarket rear shock (newer GSXR) stiffened it up a bit even for 2 up riding.
I bought one last spring for $900.00 and change. Cleaned the carbs, put in a new wire harness (po had messed up original) changed the fluids and now 6000 mi later am happy with it. Plenty of power, very smooth, runs to the ton in a hurry for a heavy weight. A bit of a pig in the twisties. It still runs circles around the VTwinn cruisers though.
A tip on the suspension. Put slightly longer spacers in the front forks and use the heavest fork oil you can find. It makes a huge difference. I am currently running HD heavy weight racing fork oil with an additional 3/4 inch of spacer. I have not bottomed out the forks since the change. I also have some sort of aftermarket rear shock (newer GSXR) stiffened it up a bit even for 2 up riding.
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F
FLHGSRay
Guest
Gotta keep your eyes open and be ready to dive in. CL ad for this one said "Old Honda $395". Had it running, licensed, and with new tires, tubes and battery for less than $625. Had my fun with it, then sold it for $1000 to buy the GS.Keep your eyes open for those vague ads.
This one just said "Suzuki $1,500.00"
So, the way I figure it, I paid $625 for the GS. That was, of course, before I did the carbs and boot o-rings, rebuilt the cam chain adjuster and tach drive, adjusted the valves, put on 3 new cables, battery, tires and tubes, Dynatek EI, plugs and wires, petcock o-ring, K&N air filter, oil filter and oil. I've stopped counting. Don't know alot about the different models of the GS's, but I think you did OK on your trade.
G
Guest
Guest
Nice find there!
Hey, I've been trying to PM you re parts but your mailbox is apparently full. Can you shoot me a message when you can, please? Cheers
Hey, I've been trying to PM you re parts but your mailbox is apparently full. Can you shoot me a message when you can, please? Cheers
W
Whitedog
Guest
FYI this bike also shares a lot of parts with the first gen Bandit bikes. Found that out when looking for electricaal parts for mine. Many part # are the same or cross reference as the same and listed as available for the first gen Bandit but not the GSX 1100G. Have fun.
7
7981GS
Guest
I over-paid for the 850 last year.
So, basically, I paid $700.00 for this GSX1100G with a new paint job included.
Daniel
7
7981GS
Guest
Got it all back together and took it for a shake-down ride today.
I only went 15 miles but it was enough to find the bugs.
It needs to be richened up as suggested earlier even in stock configuration. (Note the blue on the exhaust in front of the left muffler. Same side as the bad carb spring)
The PO had stretched one of the carb slide diaphragm springs so that carb is not working right.
Ordered it today from the local Suzuki store.
I will do a complete rebuild when it gets here sometime next week.
The brakes work as well as the '83 1100E brakes that are on my '80 GS100G.
The suspension is actually a little too stiff in the rear so I will reduce the spring pre-load on the replacement spring.
She has no problem going over 70 in first gear.
Here are a couple of pic's from today's little put...
I only went 15 miles but it was enough to find the bugs.
It needs to be richened up as suggested earlier even in stock configuration. (Note the blue on the exhaust in front of the left muffler. Same side as the bad carb spring)
The PO had stretched one of the carb slide diaphragm springs so that carb is not working right.
Ordered it today from the local Suzuki store.
I will do a complete rebuild when it gets here sometime next week.
The brakes work as well as the '83 1100E brakes that are on my '80 GS100G.
The suspension is actually a little too stiff in the rear so I will reduce the spring pre-load on the replacement spring.
She has no problem going over 70 in first gear.
Here are a couple of pic's from today's little put...
7
7981GS
Guest
I had to turn the handlebar to get it as high as possible.
I will possibly change it for a slightly taller one.
The seat is too low and forces a groin injury like most dirt bikes.(pushes you forward)
I will get a couple of inches of foam added to the front 3/4 of it when it gets recovered making it flatter.
Daniel
7
7981GS
Guest
The new carb slide springs showed up yesterday so it was time to fix these carbs.
Just a few items needed to be removed to gain access to them.
After removing the fuel tank and both side covers, you can almost see what's in store.
First started with some of the pollution control stuff:
Naturally, the fuel petcock assembly, air filter and the entire battery box had to be removed:
After disconnecting the airbox, I held it back out of the way with a bungee cord. Now, there is tons of room!:
Continued...
Just a few items needed to be removed to gain access to them.
After removing the fuel tank and both side covers, you can almost see what's in store.
First started with some of the pollution control stuff:
Naturally, the fuel petcock assembly, air filter and the entire battery box had to be removed:
After disconnecting the airbox, I held it back out of the way with a bungee cord. Now, there is tons of room!
:
Continued...
7
7981GS
Guest
After removing the return cable to the carbs and re-routing the cables a bit,
I was able to slide them out enough to gain access to the pull cable:
Naturally, you have to remove the alternator to have a chance in heck
of getting the airbox out to gain access to the intake manifolds:
You must leave this bolt in the alternator or take the cover off of the slave cylinder for the hydraulic clutch.
I choose to leave the cover on:
With the alternator safely held out of the way with another bungee cord,
you can see all of the room needed to remove the box:
Gears look good:
After gently nudging (pushing like hell) the airbox forward and to the side,
it almost cooperates in coming out:
Continued...
I was able to slide them out enough to gain access to the pull cable:
Naturally, you have to remove the alternator to have a chance in heck
of getting the airbox out to gain access to the intake manifolds:
You must leave this bolt in the alternator or take the cover off of the slave cylinder for the hydraulic clutch.
I choose to leave the cover on:
With the alternator safely held out of the way with another bungee cord,
you can see all of the room needed to remove the box:
Gears look good:
After gently nudging (pushing like hell) the airbox forward and to the side,
it almost cooperates in coming out:
Continued...
7
7981GS
Guest
Now you can almost get within striking distance of the phillips head screws
with a slam hammer:
Easy peasy, right?
With my handy Suzuki parts bins at the ready, I am prepared for the attack.
Filled with parts from our friends at Z1 enterprises and Cycleorings.com of course!
This one screw was less than cooperative:
After trying to get a deeper phillips bit pounded in to restore the shape,
I decided that was not going to be enough to place victory over the screw
on my side. So, I took a sharp straight chisel and made a nice clean slot for a straight blade:
Victory!
Continued...
with a slam hammer:
Easy peasy, right?
With my handy Suzuki parts bins at the ready, I am prepared for the attack.
Filled with parts from our friends at Z1 enterprises and Cycleorings.com of course!
This one screw was less than cooperative:
After trying to get a deeper phillips bit pounded in to restore the shape,
I decided that was not going to be enough to place victory over the screw
on my side. So, I took a sharp straight chisel and made a nice clean slot for a straight blade:
Victory!
Continued...
7
7981GS
Guest
Without manifolds and dirty:
After scrubbing with steel wool and brake cleaner with an assist from compressed air:
Some of the parts that had to be removed to get this far:
Dirty manifolds with the parts from Robert Barr (Cycleorings.com) at the ready:
Now is a great time to saturate the intake manifolds inside and out with
Armor all or equivalent, this time it was STP Son of a Gun:
Suzuki has slighly improved the manifolds from the GS style.
Hopefully you can see the 4 little nipples (Yes, I said nipples!) that help retain the new O-rings in place:
Installed and eagerly awaiting the new fresh carbs:
Continued...
After scrubbing with steel wool and brake cleaner with an assist from compressed air:
Some of the parts that had to be removed to get this far:
Dirty manifolds with the parts from Robert Barr (Cycleorings.com) at the ready:
Now is a great time to saturate the intake manifolds inside and out with
Armor all or equivalent, this time it was STP Son of a Gun:
Suzuki has slighly improved the manifolds from the GS style.
Hopefully you can see the 4 little nipples (Yes, I said nipples!) that help retain the new O-rings in place:
Installed and eagerly awaiting the new fresh carbs:
Continued...
7
7981GS
Guest
The carbs as removed. You can see several scratch marks from previous attempts to do something:
Found a couple of small problems that I hadn't prepared for.
These hook up to engine vacuum via a long trip to the charcoal canister and back.
So, these are vacuum leaks!
:
I guess that I will see if I can make new vacuum lines make these tight turns as I really don't want to wait on the parts.
If they are even still available:
That's all of the little bit of work that I got done in a few hours today.
Daniel
Found a couple of small problems that I hadn't prepared for.
These hook up to engine vacuum via a long trip to the charcoal canister and back.
So, these are vacuum leaks!
:
I guess that I will see if I can make new vacuum lines make these tight turns as I really don't want to wait on the parts.
If they are even still available:
That's all of the little bit of work that I got done in a few hours today.
Daniel
G
Guest
Guest
You are my idol
Uhhh Daniel?
Uhhh Daniel?
7
7981GS
Guest
Want to come up here and rebuild these carbs?
The Circus is in town:
http://www.reno.com/article/20090114/EVENTS08/741495516/1018/events&parentprofile=1017
I have pilot jets from 37.5-47.5 and mains from 95's-145's.
And at least 100 3mm flat washers.
Daniel
The Circus is in town:
http://www.reno.com/article/20090114/EVENTS08/741495516/1018/events&parentprofile=1017
I have pilot jets from 37.5-47.5 and mains from 95's-145's.
And at least 100 3mm flat washers.
Daniel
G
Guest
Guest
You don't need my help!Want to come up here and rebuild these carbs?
The Circus is in town:
http://www.reno.com/article/20090114/EVENTS08/741495516/1018/events&parentprofile=1017
I have pilot jets from 37.5-47.5 and mains from 95's-145's.
And at least 100 3mm flat washers.
Daniel
C'mon guy!
I just started a job on an Offshore Oil Rig as the Chef!
One week on one off.
Good money! Great Benefits!
7
7981GS
Guest
Great food too!
Where do I sign up!
Forgot to post these to anyone that cares to do the job right.
Don't JUST bolt up your intake manifolds!
Make sure that the air flows smoothly through the port from the carb.
On the 26 and 28mm carb manifolds, you can hone the inside to match the cylinder head ports.
Some of the '80-up manifolds can also be honed to match the ports on those heads.
If I had JUST bolted them up, the ports would mis-match like this:
Instead, look as you hold them to match and then tighten them down:
It is good for a few more pony's.
Daniel
Where do I sign up!
Forgot to post these to anyone that cares to do the job right.
Don't JUST bolt up your intake manifolds!
Make sure that the air flows smoothly through the port from the carb.
On the 26 and 28mm carb manifolds, you can hone the inside to match the cylinder head ports.
Some of the '80-up manifolds can also be honed to match the ports on those heads.
If I had JUST bolted them up, the ports would mis-match like this:
Instead, look as you hold them to match and then tighten them down:
It is good for a few more pony's.
Daniel
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G
Guest
Guest
great write-up and pictorial! and great work too...
7
7981GS
Guest
Tearing it apart is the EASY part.
Getting it all back together will probably take 3X's longer no doubt.
After I get Jenny home and situated, I will tear into the carbs. Wish me luck!
Daniel
