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Some (hopefully) simple clutch questions.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

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1982 gs 750t. Putting in new plates. The release rack goes on the inside of the pressure plate with the splined end coming out correct??? With the splined end coming out it is very loose and can be jiggled around and spins, should it be this way??? Then it goes into the cover and connects with the release pinion when I pull on the clutch does this pull the pressure plate out??? I feel I put it back together right but I have absolutely no tension what so ever on the clutch it is just like pulling air??? any help appreciated..
 
Okay second thing. With the cover back on the the release pinion sticking out of the top has some play (I can spin it back and forth a little) Looking down at it if I spin it clockwise until it stops and then attach cable arm I do have clutch pull and can put the bike in gear but when I pull the clutch in in gear it stays in gear and does not roll freely. However, if I spin it slightly counterclockwise and reattach the cable arm when I pull the clutch I get absolutely nothing no resistance and I mean I am turning the this like a groove or two on the pinion and it makes that much difference. What in the heck have I done wrong here????
 
Hello Bueller, Bueller, Anyone Please ??? Getting desparate, may finally break down and take to a mechanic.
 
I dunno from what I read did you have an extra friction plate left over? did you re-use the original springs? If not were the springs you put in and the old springs the same height?(They don't need to be but if they are different heights, new ones shorter, but the same spring rate you might see this)

I had an issue where it was way too hard to pull the guy had thrown "racing" springs in it... I raplaced the friction plates (removed 6 added 7 the V&H ones were thinner), and the springs(The V&H ones were a hair taller but much lighter spring rate), it made a world of difference for me...
 
I replaced the old springs with new vesrah heavy duty ones they are about an 1/8 of an inch longer. I replaced the old friction plates with new ebc plates from Dennis Kirk and I replaced the old metal plates with new oem from suzuki. My big confusion is when I put everything back in the pinion spins about a 1/4 to half inch and I can't figure where it should be when I put the arm back on the top. It goes from totally engaged to totally disengaged. I had it to the point where I pull the clutch and shift into first (engine off and no oil in yet) but when I pull the clutch in and try to roll the bike it is still in gear and won't roll at all in all gears it does this. It is like the clutch isn't there at all.
 
Forgot to mention I replaced 7 steel plates and 8 friction plates.
 
I have an 82 gs750t also. I took mine apart to clean the oil inspection glass and had the similiar problems. I'm not sure if I fixed it correctly but I got it working.

I loosened up the adjusters before I put it all back together. Spun the shaft clockwise, and slipped the arm back on and adjusted the pull checking it while running.

My clutch is slipping when I give it hell and at 7-8000 rpms it comes loose, so like you I may be tearing it apart again for new clutches.
 
Did you spin the pinion shaft clockwise until it wouldn't turn any more ??? Then make cable adjustments from there. When you had the cover off was the release rack pretty loose and free to spin??
 
Yeah all the way. Put the arm on with the adjusters slackened up. It spun freely yes.
 
I took your advice and just had a little faith that I had it back together right. Put everything on slack (just like when I worked as a bicycle mechanic in college) adjusted and started and shifted into first did this about three times and on the fourth shifted into first and it didn't stall idle at 1400 and pulled out smoothly made afew small tuning adjustments and went out fo a 60 mile test ride (with cell phone handy of course). Thanks for the advice.

AND OF COURSE THE CYCLIST IN ME SAYS GO LANCE :D
 
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