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something has gone horribly wrong piston hitting valve

  • Thread starter Thread starter m.qualls89
  • Start date Start date
Yes..but find another aluminum nut...thats what its designed to do. Break BEFORE you gunk up the crank. AND do NOT turn that engine again until the cams are out and the valves are ALL up as far as they can be.

Your gonna have to pull the head anyways to do a real inspection, so just take the cams out and get the head off. Youll need to look for bent valves and piston tops being damaged.

To turn it again is just gonna compound any problems that already exist.
 
The nut looks fine its the tabs it sits in that broke. Or am I looking at this wrong?
 
The back of the 19MM aluminum nut has two tabs that fit into the slots..its a male / emale meshing arrangement. Take out the 12MM center bolt and remove the aluminum nut thing. See if the tabs on the back of the aluminum nut have sheared themselves off.

Is that a clear enough description?
 
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OK..now thats better. How does the back of the aluminum nut look...like theres some sheared off tabs? take a flat tip screw driver and knock the broke off tabs out of the slots on the crank. does the STEEL bolt thread back in without any problems? Does the threads on the bolt look damaged? I suspect not...you simply twisted then tabs off the aluminum nut...which saved your bacon.
 
Gs1000G83 said:
Okay so how is that avoided ? I read that those adjusters are not to be touched EVER but doesnt everything fail eventually? The reason i ask is because when i do my top end this winter i planned on replacing it
Click to expand...

Indeed, everything seems to be designed to fail eventually.
Here's your service manual if you don't have it already.
http://www.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/gs/80-83_GS1100T-LT-EX-1000SZ-EZ-SD-ED-ESD.pdf

You will find references on pages 7-10, 7-19, 7-20, and 7-21.
You will find out how to rebuild it on pages 7-30 through 7-32.

This might help you also.
http://www.bwringer.com/gs/camchaintens.html
 
The 12 mm bolt is fine. It looks like the slots are actually in the nut and the tabs I broke were on the crank.
 
Did you knock the aluminum tabs out of the crank slots? Youll need a new aluminum nut..it actually does two jobs. Its a spacer AND a safety shear keyway for preventing what you did from ruining the crank and / or causing further damage.

Its a lesson you had to learn one way or another..but now you know.

just put the bolt back in the end of the crank and leave it alone. Get the cams out and get the head off. Dont do anything else..just get thentop end opened up.

Get a service manual downloaded and read it step for step and ask questions BEFORE if your not sure.

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/
 
Ok thanks a lot for the help guys. This was a hard lesson but I guese those are the ones we remember most. I've already got the cams out and the chain is hanging from the frame. I really want to time it and do a compression test. I mean worst that can happen is the valve be bent in which case I will tear the entire motor down anyway because if your gonna do the top end you might as well do the bottom.
 
well...let me give you a suggestion.

Since the head is off anyway, have the valve seats recut and lap the valves. Put in new valve stem seals. measure the spring lengths per the service limits stated in the manual. See that you havent also broke any valve guides when they hit. Do a very meticulous and comprehensvie rebuild of the top end only.

If there wasnt anything wrong with the lower end and tranny before, then theres no real reason to even trouble with it.

In reality, all you need to do is get that head and valves in order again, new head and cover gaskets, be sure the tensioner is done right, and then retime it. It seems daunting, but its really not that bad of a task.
 
No I know it shouldnt be that bad of a job its the $ involved lol. With work slow and seems like everything need matinence at the same time the bike may have to go on the back burner for a few weeks.
 
I know that situation all too well. I got some things that need some cash thrown at them too. I pay the bills first and then save a little till the funds are there...which may be SEVERAL weeks down the road!!!
 
chuck hahn said:
I know that situation all too well. I got some things that need some cash thrown at them too. I pay the bills first and then save a little till the funds are there...which may be SEVERAL weeks down the road!!!
Click to expand...
Exactly, which kind of sucks right now because I HAD a trip to my family reunion in Melber, KY planned on the bike. Looks like I'll be sucking gas in my F-250 now lol.
 
Quick question, I'm assuming this means when the 1 & 4 cylinders are at TDC . Am I correct?
While Holding down the timing chain rotate the crankshaft in normal direction to bring the T mark (on nos 1 & 4 cylinder side of advance governor) to the timing mark
 
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yes...1 and 4 at TDC.. Do it just like the manual and the pictures of what you should see depict.
 
Ans the hits keep coming lol. Apparently someone put a helicoil in the #1 intake side for bolting down the cam and it pullled out tightening it to spec. Off to the store I go.
 
Ok guys I got it retimed. Heres what I am running into so any help is appreciated. My plan was to retime it then set the valves and do a compression test and hope that i didn't have any leakdown and keep me from pulling the head as the funds just aren't there right now. I got it all put back together after 4 helicoils. I put the cam chain tensioner back it and did it right. I started setting valves and once again when turning it over by hand a piston hit a valve. Is this a sure sign of bent valves or am I doing something wrong? When I back the valves WAY off it will turn over all you want. I'm trying to upload a video to show what I have been doing and maybe somebody can point out that I'm adjusting something wrong. Or tell me I'm doomed lol.
 
Double check your timing sounds like your missing a step there poss. Also do you have access to a leak down tester and an air compresser. If no leakdown tester you could build your own for a few bucks.Easiest way to check your motor now is to remove the cams and leak it down.If no bent valves you should get and hold pressure.Some leakage past the rings is normal as long as it is under 10% you should be fine. If not holding pressure you can hear it coming out of either the exhaust (pipes) or the intake (carbs) or into the crankcase confirming bent valves, damaged or worn rings,head gasket etc. While the cams are out measure the spring heights if they are not all the same and a few are shorter then the others that is indicating that they are not coming all the way back up.(bent).Depending on you and your mechanical or maintence needs I usally instruct people to replace the stock tensioners with an aftermarket type (manual) and this will never happen again.Once you get used to manual cam chain adjusters and don't overtighten them you will have peace of mind that under most any conditions the tensioner can not back off and cause carnage.But I have several stock tensioners around here if some one was to need one and I still can find them they could have em free of charge.;)
 
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