Sorting GS1000 CV carbs?

[Suzuki Mad]

Well it's that time.

After 9 years of sitting in the garage I'm going to start spannering on the GS1000E. Along with a few jobs for getting her ready for the road next summer I have to sort out the carbs.

They have been left with fuel in (yes, I'm bad.)

Any pointers or issues that I need to be aware of when pulling these down.

The plan is to strip the bank to single carbs and ultrasonic clean each and every one stripped. Hopefully that will be enough. I can use the Carb tune pages to reset them, hopefully close to standard.

 

[Kiwi Canuck]

You will probably need an impact driver and you'll also need a good set of screw drivers, both flat head and JIS.

Use heat to remove the jets if they are stuck, especially the pilot jets.

Follow the guide on Basscliff's site.

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/

Download the manual and read the carb section.

http://zeus.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/gs/GS1000_C-E-S-L_Manual.pdf

Contact Robert Barr for a new set of orings.

Find something that cleans your carbs but doesn't darken them while in the ultrasonic dip.

David.

 

[gustovh]

I checked the float height, cleaned everything else, unblocked three pilot jets, soaked everything in dishwasher mix [ a dishwasher tab in a cup of hot water] overnight,

Found this in another thread. Later he described it as a dishwasher soap tab. If it works would be very environmentally friendly.

V

 

[gs7.11]

If you've got a set of BS34's with any decent age/mileage, I would strongly recommend that you replace the emulsion tubes. NRP do some at a decent price.
I spent ages trying to find a slight hesitation in my fuelling, and despite closely inspecting my emulsion tubes, they seemed fine. In the end, having changed everything else, I gave up and fitted new ones....hey presto, problem solved.

BTW I have 2 sets of carbs, both had identical symptoms.

 

[Landrith]

I have cleaned the carbs several times on a 76 GS 750 that sat for years before I got it on Craigslist and a 91 GSX 1100g that sat but was well maintained when I got it. I knew nothing about carbs or motorcycles and watched some youtube videos. I never separated the carbs and a racing boat tuner friend always encouraged me to precisely document the existing float heights and fuel air screw settings to return each as they were. Worked good. Cleaning was just carb cleaner spray and a compressed air gun. No wire poking of jets. On a 2nd or 3rd unnecessary clean of the GSX (the electric fuel pump's intermittent failing was the problem), I did replace o rings and saw some deterioration. The GSX got stolen over the Summer and I have a new Craigslist barn find 1980 GS 1000 g with only 20k and it is in the garage of a luxury condo where the Commissars are out to get me and I am just about ready to take off the carbs late at night under the cycle's cover. The original owner of the bike was left with fuel in it but clean crankcase oil. I may take the bank to a shop for cleaning rather than risk it on the back deck of the condo. If I do clean it, I will try to get the correct Japanese standard screw drivers for preserving all original screws and washers. I will hope to also get away without rebalancing the carbs.

 

[Steve]

Good luck with that project. :-\\\

1. It takes more than spraying to clean the carbs.
2. You WILL need new o-rings. Get them from cycleorings.com, NOT from "rebuild kits".
3. Do NOT take them to a shop. No telling what they will do and what parts they will replace (and with what). If you feel the need to have someone else do them, there are a few of us here that will be happy to do them for you.
4. JIS drivers are good, but there is no real need to preserve the original stuff. Stainless socket screws do a much better job and look better, too.
5. On the contrary, PLAN on rebalancing the carbs. Especially if you do a valve adjustment, which is HIGHLY recommended.

.