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Sorting out gs1100e for a friend - High Temp

Gregory

Gregory

Forum Mentor
Past Site Supporter
Thanks to all who have been nursing me along on this "tune up".

If I should post each question separately let me know.

1. I rode it across town start and stop about 20 miles. The Temp Gauge was almost to 320 degrees (see pic):

denisgaugesHOT.jpg


Any ideas?

Also you may notice that the idle is running too high at 2.5 or so. I have the cable adjusted at its lowest point.

I wonder if a small part of the issue may be that the petcock is not working so I had to run it on PRIME. (I don't park it and leave it on prime though)

Are there any idle adjustment screws on those CV carbs?
 
Test the gauge would be the first step. There is a procedure in the manual or put senor in boiling water and see if the gauge goes to 210 (Ed's proceedure).

If it is true, try disconnecting the stator from the R/R (not R/R from battery) and see if the temperature drops. You will be running total loss. If that helps then change to a Series R/R. If it doesnt you have some other problems. Low oil, Put in 750 gears to increase oil flow.
 
Thanks Posplayr. I will do that next.

With a little help from GR finding the adjuster knob, I may have just discovered part of the high idle problem?

I couldn't get it to idle less than about 2k without stumbling and dying (which sounds really clunky metal on metal as it dies.).

I sprayed carb cleaner around the intakes and found that #1 and #4 are sucking air...but the clamps are all the way tight. I am going to take them off to inspect them here in a minute
 
Gregory said:
Thanks Posplayr. I will do that next.

With a little help from GR finding the adjuster knob, I may have just discovered part of the high idle problem?

I couldn't get it to idle less than about 2k without stumbling and dying (which sounds really clunky metal on metal as it dies.).

I sprayed carb cleaner around the intakes and found that #1 and #4 are sucking air...but the clamps are all the way tight. I am going to take them off to inspect them here in a minute
Click to expand...

Running high idle with very lean condition, will probably drive up the temp. ;)

Maybe new boots.

Without the temp gauge, how long would you have driven it in this condition?
 
The weird thing is that even though I didn't take the boots off yet I did remove and reinstall the clamps, during this process the boots (engine side) felt pretty supple. but they are sucking air somewhere.

This bike is kickin my ass. The petcock is acting up now. It was only working on prime, now after looking at it (looks new inside and out) I put it back together and NOW when I apply vacuum to get it started, it continues to run on all three settings and wont stop.
 
The boots seem pretty supple so I tweaked one of the hose clamps a bit, and it seemed to get much closer to not sucking air.

I believe that if I could find a 1/4" x 2.25" diameter wide hose clamp in the traditional style that allows you to keep tightening... I bet these boots would be ok. I have been searching and it is a PITA to find any though.
 
300F is not unusual on my 1000S. Happens when cruising at 80+mph on a hot day. Temps are much lower when running around town though. A good case for synthetic oil in my opinion.
 
streteched clamps leak. Put a few washers up against the screw heads and rebend the tabs the screws go thru straight again.
 
chuck hahn said:
streteched clamps leak. Put a few washers up against the screw heads and rebend the tabs the screws go thru straight again.
Click to expand...

Yes that is basically what I did to that one I was talking about. I bent them up straight again (even backwards a little) and they still pull closed till metal touches metal - hence my thought that a more traditional style hose clamp could get tighter.
 
Gregory said:
Yes that is basically what I did to that one I was talking about. I bent them up straight again (even backwards a little) and they still pull closed till metal touches metal - hence my thought that a more traditional style hose clamp could get tighter.
Click to expand...


oops.... I just saw what you were saying. the washer being bigger diameter will help the last little bit of metal not bend and pull away from the junction area. still wish I good find a different style but will try this.
 
yeah...you can only do so much and then they need replaced. Wonder if just some car radiator clamps would get them temp sealed so the other issues can be sorted while the new clamps are ordered.
 
chuck hahn said:
yeah...you can only do so much and then they need replaced. Wonder if just some car radiator clamps would get them temp sealed so the other issues can be sorted while the new clamps are ordered.
Click to expand...

Probably, but I hate to go back with Suzuki stretchable clamps.

Ordering new clamps is my dilemma...finding traditional style that are only 1/4" wide.
 
Remember they took 30 years now to go bad so i think the new ones will last the rest of the bikes life
 
Weapon said:
what about k&n pod clamps? or cheap knockoff pod clamps?
Click to expand...

That may have worked but I just went and picked up the zuki ones today.

After I get done tearing into the clutch basket and checking some things regarding a rattle... I will get back around to stopping the air sucking problem and syncing the carbs.
 
Gregory said:
The boots seem pretty supple so I tweaked one of the hose clamps a bit, and it seemed to get much closer to not sucking air.

I believe that if I could find a 1/4" x 2.25" diameter wide hose clamp in the traditional style that allows you to keep tightening... I bet these boots would be ok. I have been searching and it is a PITA to find any though.
Click to expand...

Yeah no. The boots have a groove in them, the OEM clamps are made to fit those grooves for it to properly tighten down. The clamps you want to use are too big and won't seal up the boots. Sounds like the original OEM clamps are stretched out of shape and need to be replaced. I replaced everyone one of mine during the rebuild. It's amazing how new stuff works sooooo much better.
 
automotive clamps WILL seal the boots but they will also CUT the boots over time.
the reason the factory clamps are to large is because the rubber has shrunk.
 
Bicycle inner tube works under the clamp. A good use for flat mountain bike tubes. Put in under the clamp by snipping a 1/4" off a tube. It deteriorates with engine heat but helps bring the tabs on clamp away from each other when they get too old. Buys some time while ordering new clamps.
 
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