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Spark plug pics

Larry D

Larry D

Forum Sage
Past Site Supporter
I took some pics of my plugs after general riding conditions. These plugs have about 1,000 miles on them. 1-4, left to right, just like sitting on the bike. How do they look to you ?:)

IMG_0250.jpg


IMG_0251.jpg
 
I can't see way down deep where the insulator meets the shell to tell if the the main jetting is good. off hand I would say they are slightly rich for the most optimum fuel economy.

#2 shows a little flakey carbon, does the petcock leak?

other than that, a wonderful coloration for a spark plug.

I assume it runs very strong...
 
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Maybe its the camera angle, but the electrode on the #3 plug looks more warn than the rest. I wouldn't expect that much wear after only 1k miles.
 
rustybronco said:
I can't see way down deep where the insulator meets the shell to tell if the the main jetting is good. off hand I would say they are slightly rich for the most optimum fuel economy.

#2 shows a little flakey carbon, does the petcock leak?

other than that, a wonderful coloration for a spark plug.

I assume it runs very strong...
Click to expand...

As far as fuel economy, mine isn't that good. Only around 32mpg. I've been told to check the mains to ensure they are the correct ones, but it's been so nice....I've been riding.
The petcock is brandy new and work perfectly. And yes it's a strong runner.:)
 
Larry D said:
As far as fuel economy, mine isn't that good. Only around 32mpg. I've been told to check the mains to ensure they are the correct ones...
Click to expand...
Is the mpg because of the joy of it running and perhaps a little to hard with the wrist? :)

you may want to go out into the bright sunlight and look where the insulator meets the shell using a magnifying glass or an eye loupe.
"when doing plug chops" if you find the coloration is a light tan at 3/4+ throttle, your main is ok.

if the main is ok, then I would lower the needle 1/2 step and optimize the idle mixture settings.

but only plug chops will tell you for sure.
 
rustybronco said:
Is the mpg because of the joy of it running and perhaps a little to hard with the wrist? :)

you may want to go out into the bright sunlight and look where the insulator meets the shell using a magnifying glass or an eye loupe.
"when doing plug chops" if you find the coloration is a light tan at 3/4+ throttle, your main is ok.

if the main is ok, then I would lower the needle 1/2 step and optimize the idle mixture settings.

but only plug chops will tell you for sure.
Click to expand...

I don't think it's my wrist. I ride pretty easily, most of the time...:rolleyes: Most of the miles are highway, 65-70 mph. I commute 70 miles roundtrip to work, with some city riding mixed in.
Ever since I first started it, it's run rich. After I discovered a broken idle air screw tip, I ordered 4 new screws and installed them and the bike ran okay. Using the advise from this forum, I set the screws at 2 turns out and started riding. The bike would bog, stutter, whatever.. terribly when rolling onto the throttle and it idled even worse

A trusted GSR member recommended simply turning the idle air screws in (leaner) by quarter turn increments and adjusting the master idle knob accordingly. I followed this advise and after some experimentation, I'm at the point I am now. The mileage is 32mpg, starts instantly with 1/2 choke, idles great at 1100rpm, still a small stutter rolling on the throttle......and the weird part........

the idle air screws are only 3/4 of a turn out !!:eek:

The only thing I can figure is perhaps the taper on the new screws is greater than stock, requiring them to be turned in further.
 
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Larry D said:
the idle air screws are only 3/4 of a turn out !!:eek:

The only thing I can figure is perhaps the taper on the new screws is greater than stock, requiring them to turned in further.
Click to expand...
and/or the float levels are to high, someone played with the needles/jets...

new plugs and doing chops are in order me thinks.

***edit*** the center electrodes on no's 3 & 4, are they the same length as 1 & 2?
 
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rustybronco said:
and/or the float levels are to high, someone played with the needles/jets...

new plugs and doing chops are in order me thinks.

***edit*** the center electrodes on no's 3 & 4, are they the same length as 1 & 2?
Click to expand...

The next rainy spell we get, I plan on pulling the carbs and doing some investigation. I didn't notice any difference in the electrode length....I'll check them out. Them being different lengths would indicate what ??

Float height was set, 22.4mm IIRC, when carbs were dipped. I'll check them. Also making sure the pilots are correct. I checked the mains when I had them apart last time and they are stock. After verifiying all is good, I'll do some plug chops.
I was concerned that with the idle air screws turned so far in, that I was running very lean. Doesn't seem to be the case though.
Thanks.:)
 
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Larry D said:
The next rainy spell we get, I plan on pulling the carbs and doing some investigation. I didn't notice any difference in the electrode length....I'll check them out. Them being different lengths would indicate what ??
Click to expand...
defective mfg.

Larry D said:
Float height was set, 22.4mm IIRC, when carbs were dipped. I'll check them. Also making sure the pilots are correct. I checked the mains when I had them apart last time and they are stock. After verifiying all is good, I'll do some plug chops.
Click to expand...
"IF" all three areas of the plug show rich at the tip, middle, and way down at the bottom, the jets are correct and the needles don't show wear and you measured the float height with the floats just touching needle valves. I would lower the floats by 1.0 mm and try it again.

if the main jet area of the plug is correct, the idle and mid sections of the plug still are showing rich; I would drop the needles and readjust the pilot circuits.

that's my thoughts...
 
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rustybronco said:
defective mfg.

"IF" all three areas of the plug show rich at the tip, middle, and way down at the bottom, the jets are correct and the needles don't show wear and you measured the float height with the floats just touching needle valves. I would lower the floats by 1.0 mm and try it again.

if the main jet area of the plug is correct, the idle and mid sections of the plug still are showing rich; I would drop the needles and readjust the pilot circuits.

that's my thoughts...
Click to expand...

New plugs are cheap, I'll pick up a set.
Thanks for your input. I understand that white=lean and darker=rich. What my untrained eye has difficulty with is, how white is too white and how dark is too dark. From your response, these plugs look as they should, slightly tan color.

I did measure correctly and checked them again before installing. I'll run with your recommendations and see if I can get it even better.

Have to wait for it to start raining though.....:)
 
Larry D said:
From your response, these plugs look as they should, slightly tan color...
Click to expand...
Medium tan on the body of the insulator, darker color (shading?) where it meets the center electrode, it's so hard to tell in my monitors "light".
 
If my plugs looked that good I'd just ride it.

Of course, I live at 9,100' and the area I ride has elevation changes from 5k to 10k+ so I'm never going to get it jetted correctly. I think it's time to get a fuel injected bike. :dancing:
 
I thought they looked pretty good too. Some people here must have super eyesight to see the things they are seeing on them.
 
The factory calls for gray to light tan on the plugs, fuel economy, emission standards, ect.
it's a nice color for H.P., but he is questioning his mpg.

the pilots being at 3/4 turn, it's a little darker color than I would consider optimum, fuel mileage @ 32 mpg, flaking carbon deposits... a lot of factors went into "my opinion".

I think plugs are a fascinating read, but YMMV...
 
I replaced the o-ring on my tach cable last night and had the camera handy, so I yanked the plugs and took the pics too.

I understand the concept of the plugs being the window to the engine, but when you don't know what optimum looks like.......

I have a few fantastic forum members that live closeby and they've helped me greatly. I know, I'm a lucky guy......But between their schedule and mine, along with the weather improving and wanting to ride all the time, we haven't been able to get together. So, I posted some pics.....I know how you guys and gals love the pics, as do I.

I want to improve the mileage, get rid of the slight stumble when rolling on the throttle out of a corner and ensure I'm not going to burn up the valves. I've seen pictures of burnt up valves here and I don't want that to happen.:)

By the way....what does YMMV mean ??
 
Larry D said:
I want to improve the mileage, get rid of the slight stumble when rolling on the throttle out of a corner and ensure I'm not going to burn up the valves. I've seen pictures of burnt up valves here and I don't want that to happen.:)

By the way....what does YMMV mean ??
Click to expand...
it makes "me" think it's fuel level related.

pray the carb guru chimes in...

as with anything, your mileage may vary. :)
 
If he wants to lean it out then too high. Generally fuel related problems in lower rpm is too lean and in upper rpm too rich.
 
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