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spark?????????

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

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:?: my coils are still putting out great specs, and i just replaced my wires.
my problem is that when the plugs are in the head i get no spark, if i pull any of the plugs and hold against the block or frame still no spark; however when i place about1/4 inch gap between plug and ground voila we have spark and lots of it. ive tried regapping and changing plugs but still no diff. :( what did i do wrong)
 
Re: spark?????????

The first thing I would do is take my multimeter, set it to 200K on the ohms scale and measure the resistance between the plug caps on the 1 & 4 cylinders and then between the 2 & 3 cylinders. They should be between 30-40K ohms.

Earl


Don Watson said:
:?: my coils are still putting out great specs, and i just replaced my wires.
my problem is that when the plugs are in the head i get no spark, if i pull any of the plugs and hold against the block or frame still no spark; however when i place about1/4 inch gap between plug and ground voila we have spark and lots of it. ive tried regapping and changing plugs but still no diff. :( what did i do wrong)
Click to expand...
 
showing 38 ohms between sides. also regapped plugs to a greater gap of .045 spark now goes where its supposed to but still cant get bike fired on more than 2 cylinders with or with out choke. also just rebuilt a different set of carbs for bike since first set were built wrong (stock gs750es set is the new) have gone through all connectors and cleaned or replaced as needed. the cylinders change on which ones fire each start first will be 1-3 then 2-4 then 1-4 then 2-3 then back again.
 
Just to rule out something her. Sitting on the bike, the cylinders are numbered lef to right, 1,2,3,4. The coil on the left side should have it spark plug wires connected to cylinders 1 and 4. The coil on the right side powers plug wires going to the 2 and 3 cylinders. Is this what you have?

Earl



Don Watson said:
showing 38 ohms between sides. also regapped plugs to a greater gap of .045 spark now goes where its supposed to but still cant get bike fired on more than 2 cylinders with or with out choke. also just rebuilt a different set of carbs for bike since first set were built wrong (stock gs750es set is the new) have gone through all connectors and cleaned or replaced as needed. the cylinders change on which ones fire each start first will be 1-3 then 2-4 then 1-4 then 2-3 then back again.
Click to expand...
 
yes made that mistake looooong time ago :oops: have even tried swapping 1-4 and 2-3 wires to 4-1 and3-2
 
check and see what the voltage is at the orange wire at both plugs, both with the ignition on and while cranking the engine, you should have battery voltage. (12volts plus)
try hooking jumper cables between your bike battery and a good car battery (car engine NOT running)
I ran into a similar problem once with my bike, the battery was dieing and had enough power to turn the engine over but not enough to both turn the engine over and fire the plugs.
it would turn over but not fire, I would hook jumper cables to my lawn tractor and it would fire right up. new battery fixed it.
 
Have you checked the resistance between the primary (+ -) tabs on the end of the coils? It should be between 3 and 5 ohms.

Also, have you tried starting the bike with the shop dark so you can see any electrical leak or fault/intermittent ground?

Besides changing the plug wires, have you done any other electrical work?
Reset timing, changed fuses, etc

Earl

Don Watson said:
yes made that mistake looooong time ago :oops: have even tried swapping 1-4 and 2-3 wires to 4-1 and3-2
Click to expand...
 
yeah that thought crossed my mind also but it will run on 2 cylinders and different ones each start
 
That had alread crossed my mind. I just wanted to check a few things first.
The symptoms are exactly the same as when the ignitor box went bye bye on my 1150 a couple months ago. Spark, no spar, firing on different pairs, then no fire, then catch. I am reasonably sure your ignitor box is gone.
I can look up the resistances for the box for an 1150E but I am not sure they would be the same for your bike.

Earl



Don Watson said:
is it possible that the ignitor box is going out? :idea:
Click to expand...
 
why would there be different specs and where can I get a quality upgrade?
 
I dont know that the specs are different, but then I dont know that they are the same either. Before making any decision about the box, I would want to be certain. When mine went out, I found a replacement OEM box was $468.00. It was $100 cheaper to buy a complete new Dyna 2000 system.

I consider the Dyna 2000 to the the best quality upgrade available. I got mine from Murdoch Racing in Clearwater Fl.

Earl


Don Watson said:
why would there be different specs and where can I get a quality upgrade?
Click to expand...
 
Youre more than welcome. :-) The 2000 system has integral programmable advance curves and does not use a mechanical advance. You will need to remove your mechanical advance if you have one. (I dont think your bike does though) Also, the installation instructions that come with the Dyna 2000 are about the best I have seen and installation is so easy and straightforward, the job is a joy.

Earl

Don Watson said:
thank you kindly O:)
Click to expand...
 
:oops: my problem the entire time was I had the 2-3 coil in reverse polarity. :oops: :oops:
 
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