W
wera racer
Guest
There's one here in Memphis: Leo Goff at Memphis Motorwerks. He did the jugs and pistons on an 1970 R5 build I did last year. I just like to learn how to do as much as I can myself.
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There's one here in Memphis: Leo Goff at Memphis Motorwerks. He did the jugs and pistons on an 1970 R5 build I did last year. I just like to learn how to do as much as I can myself.
The service manual details all the basic checks. Measure cylinder bore, piston diameter, valve stem diameter, valve to guide clearance, cylinder head flatness, and valve seat condition and width. These checks are not difficult but tools are required.
If you really get serious you can do your own valve job and replace the guides yourself but that involves yet more tools. I've done my own valve jobs before but haven't replaced any guides yet. The process was fairly easy but requires slow methodical work so not everyone has the patients for it.
If you really get serious you can do your own valve job and replace the guides yourself but that involves yet more tools. I've done my own valve jobs before but haven't replaced any guides yet. The process was fairly easy but requires slow methodical work so not everyone has the patients for it.
W
wera racer
Guest
Thanks, Ed.
The pistons and rings were all within specs and I'm giving them a thorough cleaning. Interestingly, though, one piston has a very bright spot on top where the exhaust valve relief is and there is quite a bit of carbon on most of the valves. I wonder if the carbon built up so bad on the valve that it was hitting the piston and "polishing" it? Strange.
The pistons and rings were all within specs and I'm giving them a thorough cleaning. Interestingly, though, one piston has a very bright spot on top where the exhaust valve relief is and there is quite a bit of carbon on most of the valves. I wonder if the carbon built up so bad on the valve that it was hitting the piston and "polishing" it? Strange.
