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Sprocket & Chain help

  • Thread starter Thread starter GS650E_81
  • Start date Start date
That's a good price. I'd find out what brand the chain is before ordering it though. I'd also see about getting a clip-type master link with it if you like those (I do, some don't).
 
If your stock chain and sprockets are 15/45 630, then to get near the same ratio you would want 18/54 530 sprockets.
Also you would need more links in the 530 chain.

I would have the number but I don't know what the stock length is for your bike.

Here is a link that will help you figure this out.
http://www.z1enterprises.com/reference/chain630to530.aspx


Tank
 
My mistake, I thought all these bikes had 630.
I like to learn something new everyday, this site makes that an easy thing to do!


Tank
 
Just CALL the guys over at Z1 and they will set you up with Hi-quality parts in the desired ratio that you want for less than the E-bay seller. ;)

Eric
 
7981GS said:
Just CALL the guys over at Z1 and they will set you up with Hi-quality parts in the desired ratio that you want for less than the E-bay seller. ;)

Eric
Click to expand...

Thanks for the replies.

I am going to put a call into Z1 once I have the money available.
 
Not meaning to hi jack this thread, but I am doing the same thing. I got a 78 gs 1000 the I was converting the chain from 630 to 530. My brother tried to surprise me with parts but he ordered a 530 chain, 15 tooth front, and 42 tooth rear sprockets. I know this won't work and I've called z1 and they were GREAT with helping me figure out that I need a 17 tooth front, 49 tooth rear, and a 110 link chain. (Guy said it's better to get a longer chain and cut it the a shorter chain that might not be long enough). Right now I'm kinda taking his word for it cause he seemed to know a lot about it.
The question is what do all these numbers mean? My brother says a 530 chain will fit a 530 sprocket but I've never seen such numbers on a sprocket. Only how many teeth they have. What does the number 530 mean? Does what the guy from z1 said make sense to you guys? Should I order this stuff? Is there a tutorial on how to change sprockets and chain? What should I know? Any tricks? Do I need any tool specifically specifically for this job? I'm going through the process of answering all these questions myself by looking at the Z1 site and searching the forums for any answers. I just don't want to make any noob mistakes. I haven't been able to ride at all this season cause of one problem or another. I'm pretty sure this is the last one that would stop me from riding. Sorry bout the babbling. Thanks for any info you got.
 
Z1 has done this many times for people, on your specific bike even. Take what they tell you to the bank. If they do mess it up, they will fix it for you.

The numbers 530, 630, 520, etc.... denote the size of the chain both in width and link length. The distance between the teeth on a sprocket and the width of the sprocket determine what chain it is suitable to be used on. Here's a nice little chart:

http://www.moto-chains.com/site/898528/page/578189

You generally do no see the chain size stamped on a sprocket, but if you try to put a 630 chain on 530 sprockets (or vice versa), it will become immediately apparent that something isn't right.
 
Z1 sent me up with my conversion as well. 18/49 and the chain was 120 links, best error on the side of being a bit too long. Got 3 master links, and the 6mm and 3-1.25mm spacers. For the price of one 630 chain.
 
I don't want to convert to a different size or ratio. Hopefully this will go smoothly
 
Well I pulled the trigger and got a nice set of sprockets and new RK x-ring chain from Z1 Enterprises.

I proceeded to take the clutch cover plate off, which came off fairly easily. I pulled out my 32mm socket to remove the front sprocket.

Well, it may just be me, but the 32mm nut loosened up way to easily. I did not even have to use a breaker bar. The nut was already loose. It appears the PO replaced the sockets and chain in the past, as the front sprocket actually did not look bad at all.

For the front sprocket assembly, there is a nut a sort of backer plate and then the sprocket. Is this correct? Should there be a cotter pin or any kind of other locking piece? It seemed WAY to easy to remove, as I said the nut was loose...

I still have to remove the chain and rear tire and sprocket. The master link clip on lock is being a PITA to get off as well...
 
GS650E_81 said:
Should there be a cotter pin or any kind of other locking piece? It seemed WAY to easy to remove, as I said the nut was loose.
Click to expand...
It has been MANY YEARS since I have had to do any chain maintenance (and I don't miss it a bit :p), but I think there is supposed to be a flat washer under the nut that is folded up to hold the nut in place, once it is torqued into place.



FreshmanJoe said:
Not meaning to hi jack this thread, ...

The question is what do all these numbers mean? My brother says a 530 chain will fit a 530 sprocket but I've never seen such numbers on a sprocket.
Click to expand...
Well, of course a 530 chain will fit on a 530 sprocket, that's what it's designed to do. :-\\\

As mentioned, the numbers are the dimensions of the chain. The first number (5 or 6) is the number of "eighths of an inch) from pin to pin. The 530 chain is 5/8" from pin to pin, the 630 chain is 6/8" (3/4"). The last two numbers are the number of "eighths of an inch" between the plates. Both of these chains are 3/8" between the plates. For smaller things, like go-carts, you might see a 420 or 425 chain. They are 4/8" (1/2") from pin to pin and 2.0/8" (1/4") or 2.5/8" (5/16") between the plates.

Because the distance from pin to pin is less on a 530 compared to a 630, it will take more links to make the same overall length of chain.

.
 
The locking washer seems correct. Although I cannot get it to wrap around the nut. Looks like the PO messed it up bad with a screw driver to get it off previously.
 
In a perfect world you would have a new folding lock washer to use every time you took the nut off and put it back on. However, in all reality, so long as the washer isn't weak and flimsy to the point of breaking soon, you should be able to get 2-3 uses out of one lock. You only need to fold one side up to keep it from twisting off, so just fold a fresh side of it. Don't keep reusing the same side.

If it's gaffed up too badly, just get a new one. It sucks waiting on parts to ride, but you know what sucks even worse? Losing critical parts at highway speeds. :eek:
 
Well I messed up pretty good...

Last night I jumped the gun and thought I would have to remove the exhaust to get the axle bolt out.. So I preceded to remove the exhaust hanger bolts and the exhaust...partially.

The header was about half way off the I realized I did not need to remove the exhaust at all, just turn the chain adjuster upside down and the wheels pops off easily.....silly me!

NOW, I cannot get the header back into the engine for nothing. I used a rubber mallot to try and knock it back in, but no luck. I can see this will cause an exhaust leak...

Is there a trick to getting this thing back in????
 
Don't force it! That's a good way to rape your threads and then you'll have a REAL problem.

I recall my exhaust bolts being pretty rusted up and some time with a wire brush or wheel would help a lot to clean them back up. If they won't start to thread, do not force them or you'll probably cross thread them. Some penetrating spray and patience will likely be your best friends here.

I imagine if you're running stock exhaust, that you needed to take the exhaust off to get the axle bolt torqued again. I had to anyway. Getting the tire off is not an issue with the exhaust on, but you simply can't get a torque wrench in there. So basically, in my opinion, the exhaust had to come off sooner or later. No flub there.
 
Gonzo said:
Don't force it! That's a good way to rape your threads and then you'll have a REAL problem.

I recall my exhaust bolts being pretty rusted up and some time with a wire brush or wheel would help a lot to clean them back up. If they won't start to thread, do not force them or you'll probably cross thread them. Some penetrating spray and patience will likely be your best friends here.

I imagine if you're running stock exhaust, that you needed to take the exhaust off to get the axle bolt torqued again. I had to anyway. Getting the tire off is not an issue with the exhaust on, but you simply can't get a torque wrench in there. So basically, in my opinion, the exhaust had to come off sooner or later. No flub there.
Click to expand...

The exhaust bolts are not the problem. The problem is the header will not go all the way back into the engine. When I was pulling the header out it was super tight. Now it won't go back in all the way. Is it safe to put the bolts in some carb cleaner overnight?
 
Sounds like you tweaked the exhaust tubes just a bit. Might just need some muscle to get them back in alignment.
 
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