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start up after new piston rings

  • Thread starter Thread starter turkish1961
  • Start date Start date
T

turkish1961

Guest
hi
full top end rebuild bores honed new rings ,still not got to firring up yet put rocker cover on last night, on the 09 sept due to go to BMF tailend rally uk

360mile round trip cutting it a bit fine to make sure ever thing is running ok
question is what are your thought

should rings be run in[bedded in ] or not bothered ?


the before shot

rebuild8.jpg


shiny

afterpowdercoating19may3-1.jpg

 
Yes and change the oil and filter after the first 30-50 miles.
There are several posts on engine break-in to be found in the archives.

Daniel
 
Couple of 25 mile rides getting chased by Plod should do it :D. Then change the oil. Seriously, don't be fightened of running the bike hard straight out of the box. But vary the revs (don't just sit on the M20 at a ton).
 
well just checked out the link http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm tkent02 suggested

o thats scary not not if ihave the balls todo
have you done this

still got to look at the archives daniel suggested

hampshirehog {almost local i'm in kent } have you done as you advised giving it some stick?

mine has been smoking for over 15 yrs i think so with news rings may be its time to try some thing different

my piston before strip down plenty of blow by
rebuild9.jpg


rebuild14.jpg
 
I don't see much blow-by at all. The reason for the brown on the piston top is the hot temperature it runs at. This will varnish any oil that gets up there. If you had bad blow-by, that piston skirt would show streaking.
 
I don't see much blow-by at all. The reason for the brown on the piston top is the hot temperature it runs at. This will varnish any oil that gets up there. If you had bad blow-by, that piston skirt would show streaking.

I agree. Looks good. Maybe the valve stem seals were leaking before?

In my opinion that mototune procedure is extreme. Just ride the bike medium aggressively from the get go, and don't baby it. After a hundred km's or so, increase the throttle and raise the rpm sealing. Worst thing is to go too easy. Beyond that, I don't follow any special procedure for break in. After a few good heat cycles I check the cylinder head torque, and again a second time shortly there after until the torque stays consistent.

Good luck and have fun with it.:twistedevil:
 
make sure you use mineral based oil to run it in with.... no semi synthetic! and change it along with the filter after a couple of hundred miles (again with mineral oil).... initial startup/ride no more than 4.5-5000 revs through the grears and vary the speed.

worked for me this long.... just don't pamper it ;)

oh, and you changed the stem seals didn't ya :D
 
hampshirehog {almost local i'm in kent } have you done as you advised giving it some stick?

mine has been smoking for over 15 yrs i think so with news rings may be its time to try some thing different

my piston before strip down plenty of blow by

Chances are the smoke was caused by old valve seals judging from your pistons. They look ok to me - seen loads like that and not replaced the rings. The valve seals just get old - not worn, just old - and the rubber hardens and lets oil in from the top. By now I'd guess most GSs of that age would have needed new ones.

Plus yes, I run my bikes in like I said. Key things are: don't putt putt around, let the bike labour or hold constant throttle or revs for long. Ideally find a bendy road (so you don't look a pratt) and work up and down through the revs / gearbox, let it have full throttle, no throttle, half throttle, full revs, half revs, tickover. 'Ride it like you stole it is a bit too strong for me though'. As the mythical old wife says - a little bit of everything does you good.

I use GTX by the way. You'll find loads of posts on here slating it but European GTX is different to US GTX and importantly has more zinc (like it should have). It appears that the self flagellating Europratts are a bit behind the US legislators on oil and we can still get some 'good old stuff'.
 
Don't want to start yet another oil discussion but BMW among other companies, use synthetic oil from the factory. I don't understand how they can get their rings to seal but we can't if we use the same stuff.

BTW, I like synthetic oil but don't use it after a fresh rebuild. I prefer to use a high zinc/phosphorus mineral oil like for diesel engines and then drain it out after a couple hundred miles. After that though I use synthetic oil without worry.
 
Quick question related to this topic. Im going to be putting my top end back together after a re-ring but also doing a dyna-s install. Will starting it up a few times to check timing before I break it in cause any problems or low compression?
 
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Quick question related to this topic. Im going to be putting my top end back together after a re-ring but also doing a dyna-s install. Will starting it up a few times to check timing before I break it in cause any problem or low compression?

It will be fine.
 
well fired fired the bike up friday night and no bangs or any thing and no smoke yet

sounds gound to

yes i have put new seals in as i have done twice before (still smoked then )
so i hope it is the rings or maybe i should have replaced valve stem guides that looked to tricky for me

will try the hampshiredog way (work up and down through the revs / gearbox, let it have full throttle, no throttle, half throttle, full revs, half revs, tickover) ithink

today puting rear wheel/ brake in footrests on bits and bobs should get out on it later today 2.45pm at the mo running out of time and its bl**dy raining so will have to take out as i have MOT booked 9am tomorrow

OIL i use millers zss 10/40 quess we shall see

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MILLERS-ZSS-1...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item27b9839b52

thanks all


vic
 
:(:(:( ALL IS NOT WELL
on 1st ride last night heard this metalic tap tap noise

took rocker cover off and on inlet No2 as turned over spurting out oil as turns over

als No1 ,4 bucket realy low in housing [bent valve maybe ]



septafterknockknock3.jpg


of to work
did not sleep much last night
knackered and ****ed of

vic
 
i think we will all disagree about how to run in an engine..... but one thing a good 99% do agree on is that mineral oil should be used and not semi-synthetic to run in a motor.... i'm just saying ;)


edit.... just seen that update :(
 
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I'm very sorry to hear about this. Let us know if we can help in any way.

One thought, if the head was sand/bead blasted and grit got into the oil galley passages it could cause all kinds of problems. Hope this isn't the case but wanted to mention.

As far as the oil is concern, I wouldn't worry.

Good luck
 
hi

well here we go

i took off head and confirmed No1 and 4 valves stuck. I had to tap the valve in ,to then get a grip on the bucket to take it out.
I then took out the valve. Although it now goes in and out, it is a little tight the last few mm so it must be bent?

A friend has helped with this part, I asked him to check the valve timing procedure, although I thought I did it 100% right I'm doubting my self now, may it jumped a tooth when putting in the top guide in between the sprockets. I don't know:(

See if this makes any sense to you. When you line up the exhaust shaft and it is in the correct position and inlet NOT [ out by 1 tooth] would it be the inlets valves that would hit the pistons and bend. Does this sound possible ??????

So can i get away with just getting 2 new inlet valves and still get to the rally on friday

where can i get them in the UK? [ kent ] tuesday 06sept WED ???

HELP HELP

WISH I HAD TAKEN SOME PICS BEFORE I TOOK CAMS OFF

VIC
 
One tooth out on a GS1000 and they run - not very well but they don't bend valves. Having said that it sounds like those valves are bent. You're going to have to pull them out and have a look. Are you sure you weren't 2 teeth out (easy done)?

As those 2 are the only stickers I'd guess it was just 2 bent inlets. And you're lucky where you are. Robinsons will have them surely - and you can nip down the road. You'll almost certainly need a new head gasket as well; you might be lucky - but it will be luck, otherwise.

If you can get the thing up here I can give you a hand one evening - nothing else confirmed booked in. I'm boogered Friday as it's Netley (too late for you then anyway).

Edit: just saw your other post. If you were only 1 tooth out and those valves jammed I would be seriously worried that you have had some left over grit that has got in there. It's a grade A b*stard if the head isn't 100% cleaned and they are bloody difficult to clean as you have the blind oilways (behind the rocker cover caps) that make the job a tad tricky. Have a feel of the oil in those valve pockets - any grittiness at all and that what's happened.
 
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Okay, just saw your other thread again...

From photos in your other thread you had tons of blast media down into the oil galley passages on the head. I'll bet that's why those buckets stuck. The oil passage was cross drilled from the side of the head and then plugged by Suzuki so it's very difficult to clean out all that crap after it gets into the galley.

If that were my bike I'd pull the head all the way apart again, and then consider drilling out the galley plug and then tap it for a threaded plug. With the plug out you can then make sure the passages are fully clean and don't have any blast media still inside.

Of course I don't know for a fact what the real problem was, but I do know it's really hard to clean out those passages once the grit gets inside.
 
contact debben performance www.debben.co.uk or give robinsons foundry a call.... speak to michelle http://www.robinsonsfoundry.co.uk/ - there's very little these folk don't know regarding the parts for these bikes....

i hate, with a passion, blasting engines. chemically dipped is the safest way by far as it leaves zero behind.... sorry, i don't mean to sound harsh but that stuff is a nightmare to clean out of head and cases...

good luck m8...
 
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