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Starter click

  • Thread starter Thread starter PoPr
  • Start date Start date
P

PoPr

Guest
I get the dreaded "click" when I press the starter button... I have searched the forum and found a post:
First thing I would check is to make sure the starter is getting power to it ie. try jumping accross the contacts on the solenoid if that wont run the starter then check the brushes inside the starter
Click to expand...
But I need help to locate the solenoid! Could anyone post a picture on the solenoid, so I know where to start? Cheers!
 
Just follow the heavy (thick) wire that comes from the starter motor (under that cover underneath the carbs), this wire goes directly to the solenoid.
 
Solenoid

Solenoid

Whatever you do, don't buy a solenoid!!! I think for every old motorcycle in the world, there must be 4 solenoids.:p Yours is working fine!;)

You know you're getting power to the solenoid so that eliminates a bunch of stuff, right there. As suggested, check to see if you're getting power from the solenoid to the starter. (I'll bet that you are.) The starter is, in all likelihood, the culprit..and an easy fix!!;)
 
yaddy said:
Just follow the heavy (thick) wire that comes from the starter motor (under that cover underneath the carbs), this wire goes directly to the solenoid.
Click to expand...
Cheers, I?ll check that as soon as possible.

Killer2600 said:
Is your battery charged enough?
Click to expand...
Yes, my battery is charged. I can use head lights, turn signals etc...

chuckycheese said:
You know you're getting power to the solenoid so that eliminates a bunch of stuff, right there. As suggested, check to see if you're getting power from the solenoid to the starter. (I'll bet that you are.) The starter is, in all likelihood, the culprit..and an easy fix!!;)
Click to expand...
How do you know that the solenoid is fine, b/c I DO get a click?
Whats the fix?! :)
 
Click

Click

The clicking sound indicates that power is getting to the solenoid and that it is engaging. It always makes the same sound when you start your engine but you don't normally hear it since the sound is 'masked' by the sound of the starter turning the engine over.

Did you check to see if you're getting power to the starter? If you are, your brushes are probably either worn out or your armature is dirty...or both. You'll need to disassemble the starter in order to determine what to do next. If you need new brushes, you can buy them from Stocker Starters or probably find them locally. If your armature is dirty, you can shine it up with a piece of emery paper. Starters are pretty simple and not at all hard to work on.
 
yes, just jump from one post to the other. if it starts, you might try taking the solenoid apart....i just put a new one on my bike, and took the old one apart just to look inside. i found a little corrosion and oxidation that was enough to keep it form passing the juice...i cleaned it up good and i am now 98% sure it still works....worth a try!
 
Click

Click

Yeah, that's worth a try but since it clicks, I think crossing the posts is going to do exactly the same thing....and have the same result. Let us know how it goes.
 
Been down to the garage... I shorted the solenoid, sparks flew but nothing happened with the starter. Nothing clicked or so either... Just sparks. :confused:
 
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Shorting the solenoid contacts will not make it click, only if you use the starter button or jump across the small wire that also goes to the top of the solenoid.

OK, if sparks flew, that means it is trying to pass a LOT of current. If the starter was not working due to dirty brushes or armature, there would be NO current, therefore NO sparks. Sounds like it's time to remove the starter and find out why it's not turning. What bike are you working on? There is no mention of it and it's not in your signature (hint, hint), so we can't get very specific yet. On some bikes, you can remove the starter without removing the carbs, on other bikes, you need to remove the carbs to get enough room to lift the starter out. Remove the cover over the starter (behind the left-side cylinders), remove the large wire coming from the solenoid. Remove the bolts that hold the starter to the engine block, lift the far end and slide it toward the center of the bike. You might have to remove the stator cover to do this, not sure because we don't know which bike you have (hint, hint), Once the starter is out, you can try giving it power (hold it tightly, it has a LOT of torque) to see if it will turn. You will see the bolts that hold the starter together, remove them carefully to disassemble the starter to inspect the inside. Let us know what you find.

.
 
Ops, I edited the signature before, guess I forgot to save, hehe =)

The bike in question is a GS 750E -79. I?ll try to get the starter out tomorrow, hopefully without removing the carbs!
 
Thanks for the signature update. :clap:

Now, unfortunately, I can't tell you whether you will need to remove the carbs.
I only know that it's required on some bikes, I just don't know for sure which ones. :o

.
 
I'm sure he meant that the sparks were at the solenoid, not the starter, itself. I'm also confident that it clicked since crossing the solenoid accomplished the same thing internally...but that's neither here nor there.;)

By the way, on both of my bikes, the manual says to remove the carbs.....but, I can remove the starter in about 5 minutes without removing anything but the starter. Hopefully, his may be the same.

EDIT: Hey..I just thought of something. I asked him twice if he checked to see if he had power going from the solenoid to the starter but he didn't answer. I'd check that out before doing anything else. (Be sure the ignition is on and the starter button is engaged.)
 
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chuckycheese said:
I'm sure he meant that the sparks were at the solenoid, not the starter, itself.
Click to expand...
Thats right, the sparks were at the solenoid.

chuckycheese said:
I'm also confident that it clicked since crossing the solenoid accomplished the same thing internally...
Click to expand...
The solenoid did not click when I shorted it. Should it have clicked?

chuckycheese said:
EDIT: Hey..I just thought of something. I asked him twice if he checked to see if he had power going from the solenoid to the starter but he didn't answer. I'd check that out before doing anything else. (Be sure the ignition is on and the starter button is engaged.)
Click to expand...
How do I check if I have power going from the solenoid to the starter? Sorry for not understanding =)
 
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Click

Click

OK...we've kind of beat up the 'click thing' so I think it will be fine if we don't worry about it.

Now...before you remove your starter (especially if it's hard to do), make sure you've got power to it when you try to start it. There are several ways you can find out. Do you have an electrical meter? If not, you'll want to get one because they're cheap and really come in handy when working on these bikes.

You can put one probe on the positive post of the starter (the one with the wire attached) and the ground probe on the starter body. Then have your sweetie push the starter button (with the ignition on). You should get a good reading of 12 volts, or thereabouts. You could also just test continuity between the solenoid post and the starter post.

If you don't have a meter, disconnect the starter wire and use automotive jumper cables on the starter by putting the positive one on the post and ground the negative one on the starter body or the frame of the bike. (Don't have your Volvo's engine running when you do it.) It's possible that the starter could turn over doing that but still not turn over with the bikes battery...but no need to explain that until you try one of the tests. I prefer the first one.

Don't worry a bit about asking questions.....everybody's happy to help!:) (Must be about 11:30 PM over there!!!)
 
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chuckycheese said:
You could also just test continuity between the solenoid post and the starter post.
Click to expand...
Ok, finally I got some time over so I could go down to the garage and check if there was power going from the solenoid to the starter. I dusted off my old multimeter from the University-years and measured if I had a connection between the solenoid - starter, and I did! (1 Ohm)

Cheers for all of your help, it?s really invaluable to me! :D

Soooo, I guess the next step is to remove the starter and open it up?

(Must be about 11:30 PM over there!!!)
Click to expand...
Yeah, I?ve got a few things going on in my life right now :)
 
The Fix

The Fix

Well, OK!! Now you've isolated the problem so you're close to the end of your dilemma. You'll quickly figure out how to take it apart as it's a really simple little apparatus. Take it apart carefully and inspect the brushes and the armature as discussed earlier.

I think the service limit for your brushes is probably 6mm (.24 inches). They should be wearing evenly and they'll probably be pretty dirty. I'm guessing your armature will be dark and grungy. As I mentioned earlier, you can clean it up in a jiffy with a piece of emery cloth. Let us know what you find when you get it open!

By the way, the last time I had a problem, my starter was 'dead as a door nail'. I opened it up and the brushes looked great but the armature was really grungy. I shined it up in about 5 minutes and it's worked great for the last 10 or 12 months. So........your problem may be easily solved.:-\\\

Can you remove it pretty easily?? I hope so. You're very welcome for the help; everyone here is always willing to help and most of us have learned a lot from each other.
 
I have taken the starter apart, please look at the images and see what you think.

4_soot.jpg

The black stuff seems like soot... Or is it something else?


5.jpg

Pretty icky!


6_cleaned_1and2.jpg

All shined up. What?s the name of 1 and 2?


8_3and4.jpg

I also emery-clothed 3 and 4.
3 are the brushes, right? What is the name of 4?

So, should I do something more before I fit it back onto the bike? (did not have to remove carbs btw) Thanks!
 
Your brushes are shot. Replace them and the springs, (cheap), the residue is brush material, lithium grease and commutator dust.

You can get new brushes and springs, and anything else you need, from Stockers Starters... http://www.stockers.com/ . This is a good dude who has helped many on this forum, including me. Rebuilt my electric leg for under $15 including shipping.

#1. The entire assembly: The Armature

#2 The commutator

#3 The brushes

#4 Hmmmm do you mean the backing plate?

Wow pop dude, just saw you were from Sweden. Might be cheaper to source some parts in your neck of the woods.

Gitter done!
 
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