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Starter Clutch Broken 1135 GSX

  • Thread starter Thread starter GS110X506158
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GS110X506158

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http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/album.php?albumid=501

Hi there biker friens..
Butiful day here in Norway, but i struggle to unlock the retainer nut that keeps the stator / starter clutch assy on the shaft. How is this nut normally fixed-sequred..loctite? I read some post here in this exelent forum that mentioned some smart tool to use, but forgot the link.
I am sure a lot of you have done this job before as i understand its a common problem that this part is broken. Please advise me how to proceeed. I put some pictures in my album, link above.
Regards Espen
 
Welcome abroad, the nut comes off pretty easy using a impact wench (electric or pneumatic) without having to lock the rear wheel.

You will then need to find the correct puller. U have the puller?

I clean everything and use red lock tite on the threads and the taper when doing reassembly.

It can be a bear to get off and heat is required. Don't get the magnets on the rotors hot or the magnets will fail.
 
Hi Posplayr, tnx for reply..
No i dont have the puller, is it a special puller from Suzuki or will a normal puller be ok? Mayby someone have a picture and description of a puller that works. You mention to use heat, is this a must?
Regards Espen
 
Use the FACTORY Suzuki puller & do NOT use any other puller! You need an impact wrench like Jim said to get the nut off & then the Suzuki puller. Ray.
 
Thanks RapidRay, i will ask Suzuki for the price for the puller. Is it normal to overhaul this assy or do i have to buy a new?
Regards Espen
 
Thank again! Exelent link you gave me..now i know what rotor-puller to look for and what gas to use for heating.
If sombody could verify that i also need to buy the washer's item #3 for the starter iddler gear..
Do sombody have picture or sketch how the starter clutch assy is build up so i can study and understand how it works before i open it?
I guess you all get bored of this now..anyway thanks again, i will put out some pictures afterwords.
Regards Espen
 
There are certain parts like the OD of a hub on the large gear that just need to be replaced. The price has gone up some to about $104 from Flatout but just change them to new unless you have a know good one.
 
I will have to meassure the OD for the large gear's hub. Where to find these data?

If sombody also could verify that i also need to buy the washer's item #3 for the starter iddler gear..
Do sombody have picture or sketch how the starter clutch assy is build up so i can study and understand how it works before i open it?
I guess you all get bored of this now..anyway thanks again, i will put out some pictures afterwords.
Regards Espen
 
when you get it off, you will figure it out. It is a Sprag clutch that locks in one direction. There are Barrels being pushed out with springs which run agains the OD of the hub on the big gear. In one direction the barrels are pushed back, in the other direction they wedge against the OD of the hub locking the clutch.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sprag

both barrels and the OD wear. after you get it off, you will find it best to replace the whole thing
 
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=868390&postcount=3

I found the measurements for a wear limit on a starter clutch.

The barrals measure:

14.80, 14.74 and 14.59 mm compared to new which is 15.00 mm

The flywheel boss is

51.48 mm v.s new which is 52 mm.

If I take either of two other flywheels and drop it into the clutch the barrels lock. With the "new" one just pulled out it will NOT :mad:; it simply spins.

Clutch is worn out; all of the sprage clutch surfaces have been machined down inside my motor
Click to expand...

FYI I forgot to put the bearing in and it wore the clutch till it would not run anymore.
 
Tnx a lot for this info, i have not done anything yet so i have not checked this out.
I went to dealer today and found out that these parts are expensive. Also i checked some old microfilm for 1150 that show only one roller bearring and there is no washer for the starter idler. Maybe my 1100EF motor dont need the 2 washers #3 (front and back idler gear ) I am confused about this. Anyway i will find out moore after takingit apart. Regards Espen
 
Frame is 1980 mod, i think motor is about 1984 1100EF (1135CC, 36mm carb)
If i look in microfilms for 1150 from 1984 there is only 1 roller bear #8, and on the idler there is no washer at all (neither in front or in back)
I am 100% sure i did not drop any washer, and now i get a strong feeling that these washers have never been there either. I am sure one of the guys in this fora that knows my 1135 can confirm.
Regards Espen

Here is the link to 1150 starter clutch assy: http://www.bikebandit.com/suzuki-motorcycle-gs1150ese-1984-starter-clutch/o/m6013sch268915
 
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Well I'm sure you need the roller bearing #8. That was the issue the last time I installed my starter clutch; I left it on the bench for a long time and forgot #8. So the starter ran on the clutch barrels and wore out in 2K miles.

Not sure about #9. I think it is needed but somehow affixed to the crank end.
 
Tnx again, time will show what's there. In my 1150 manual, downloaded yesterday its mentioned a thick slotted copper thrust washer to be mounted with chamfered side facing in. Is this always made from copper #9 ? I will anyway check for wear.
This manual does not mention the 2 pcs washers #3 on the idler gear as the GSX 1100 does. Regards Espen
 
Measure the OD of the threaded part inside the hub. My 80 meausred 35mm not 30 so this is the one I ordered http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0349/ the inside diameter of the hub on the ring gear where the clutch bearings ride measures 52.17mm on mine with no sign of wear. My bike has the 2 washers on the idler gear as shown in the bikebandit 1100 diagram below, but not in the 1150 one. Whether thats right for yours I cant say. Im just trying to help here, but I am by no means in the same league as the others posting on this subject for whatevre its worth. Mine is apart, if you need any other measurements just ask
 
Last edited:
the inside diameter of the hub on the ring gear where the clutch bearings ride measures 52.17mm on mine with no sign of wear.
Click to expand...

Not sure what ID you are measuring. The critical dimensions for both big end and small end is

15mm OD of the barrels #4
52mm OD of the hub on the ring gear part os set #3

Prices have gone up Flatout used to be $94 now it is $118

As noted in the measurements below it doesn't take much wear (0.25mm and 0.5mm on #4 and #3 respectively. There are the actual measurements of a clutch failed due to excessive wear not having the inner bearing.

I have also done the comparision of 3 big end 1100E clutches, 1 small end 1100 clutch and a 80-81 750E starter clutch.

Quote:
The barrals measure:

14.80, 14.74 and 14.59 mm compared to new which is 15.00 mm

The flywheel boss is

51.48 mm v.s new which is 52 mm.

If I take either of two other flywheels and drop it into the clutch the barrels lock. With the "new" one just pulled out it will NOT :mad:; it simply spins.

Clutch is worn out; all of the sprage clutch surfaces have been machined down inside my motor
 
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