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Starter clutch gear

  • Thread starter Thread starter overboostin
  • Start date Start date
O

overboostin

Guest
I narrowed down the rattle noise my bike was making to the primary gear behind the starter clutch. The clutch seems tight and torqued down fully but there is in and out play in the gear behind it. Is this gear on bearings? Is there a way to tighten it down? I'm having a lot of trouble removing the clutch itself to check since no one has the right size bolts for me to make a tool like I've seen in threads.
 
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More than likely the bolts on the back side that hold the clutch to the rotor are loose or broken.

Have to get the rotor off with the right puller/tool


Nic
 
Use this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Flywheel-Ro...Parts_Accessories&hash=item27cb304b2f&vxp=mtr

in conjunction with an impact driver and it should pop right off. might take a little heat from a torch. I like to lube the threads up with a bit of bearing grease. Helps keep both threads in good shape.

Nic

I have one you could borrow but for 10 bucks you might as well get your own.

After you get it off, check the condition of the rollers and pins in the clutch and the general condition of the holes the pins fit into in the clutch.

If the Bolts on the rear are loose. Retorque them down with some red locktight.
 
The starter clutch has 3 rollers dangling by springs- when gear spins these rollers jam onto crankshaft and spin it; when motor catches, the rollers release their grip. see pic (stolen from ???)
 
tom203 said:
The starter clutch has 3 rollers dangling by springs- when gear spins these rollers jam onto crankshaft and spin it; when motor catches, the rollers release their grip. see pic (stolen from ???)
Click to expand...


Stolen from me...:D. Here are the full sized pictures:

Push the spring back out of your way and put the pin in using a paper clip or in my case some fencing wire

Pushingbackspring.jpg


Hold the pin in place

holdingbackplunger.jpg


Put the roller in

Rollerinplace.jpg






Either way, you'll want to go slow when playing with those as the rollers and springs don't always play nice.
 
If you have trouble breaking the bolts, I can tell you where to weld it together solid. I was breaking the bolts every 2 weeks. Had it welded in July and no more problems... It is not a temporary fix. There is also a electrical fix that helps take the stress off the bolts. Do a search and you will find it. I involves rewiring the kill switch. One of Rays idea's...
Curt
 
niclpnut said:
Use this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Flywheel-Ro...Parts_Accessories&hash=item27cb304b2f&vxp=mtr

in conjunction with an impact driver and it should pop right off. might take a little heat from a torch. I like to lube the threads up with a bit of bearing grease. Helps keep both threads in good shape.

Nic

I have one you could borrow but for 10 bucks you might as well get your own.

After you get it off, check the condition of the rollers and pins in the clutch and the general condition of the holes the pins fit into in the clutch.

If the Bolts on the rear are loose. Retorque them down with some red locktight.
Click to expand...

I bought that tool and its not screwing in. Seems to be too big. Am I missing something?
 
overboostin said:
I bought that tool and its not screwing in. Seems to be too big. Am I missing something?
Click to expand...
If it's 16 mm, it would be a tad bigger than 5/8 inch, i.e. .629 inch - maybe they shipped wrong size??? I've never measured the tapped hole in rotor

Edit; it's supposed to screw into tapped hole in rotor, and then as you screw in deeper it pushes on end of crankshaft, causing rotor to "fall off" taper
 
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It came in a package so I don't think it's the wrong size. It's the one from the eBay link.
 
Both Motion Pro and Pitt Posse reference the puller for the 81-83 GS650G as a M16x1.5

Should be what you have.

Nic
 
It screws into the big round rotor once the screw is removed right? The clutch in front of the gear.
 
I have a GS1100. Well a little bigger. Anyway... I am not sure if the look is the same, but I heat the rotor with the outside threads till its dull red. I then thread the puller on to the rotor. This is after backing out the inner threaded ram in the tool. Thread the puller in fully. Then start tightening the inner ram preferrably with a impact rench. The rotor will pop off. If no impact, put it in 5th and have a buddy hold the brake as you muscle it off.
I don't know if this will help if you have the wrong tool. My engine has whats call a big end crank. Otherwise, I would send you the tool...
Curt
 
The thing is the tool I have, the diameter seems slighty too big to thread in.
 
overboostin said:
Anyone have any idea? I really want to ride my bike.
Click to expand...
So your tool does not screw into the tapped rotor hole??? do the threads appear damaged? Please to not contemplate banging on rotor- the rotor will come off with right tool!
 
go to a hardware store and get the correct size bolt.
if it a little short add a spacer between the new bolt and crank end.
 
blowerbike said:
go to a hardware store and get the correct size bolt.
if it a little short add a spacer between the new bolt and crank end.
Click to expand...

All the hardware stores around me only go up to 12mm. That's why I ordered this tool.
 
lowes maybe?
look around on your bike for the same size bolt and borrow it for a few minutes.
on the GS1000's i have used the swingarm pivot bolt as a pusher before.
imagine your on a deserted island...lol
now go fix it!
 
Yep... its too big... the 1100 is very different. Off to the hardware store you go...
Curt
 
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