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STARTER CLUTCH ISSUES.....

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

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I CURRENTLY HAVE 2 82 GS1100'S 1 L AND 1 E.....BOTH DEVELOPED THE EXACT SAME PROBLEM WITHIN A WEEK OF EACH OTHER AND I CAN'T SEEM TO BEAT THIS ISSUE....OK HERE IT GOES BOTH STARTER CLUTCHES BROKE LOOSE FROM THE CRANK SHAFTS AND I RETIGHTENED THE L MODEL (IT WAS THE FIRST TO GO )AND REASSEMBELED THE MOTOR AND AS SOON AS I TRIED TO START IT IT SPUN OFF ....I DID THIS 5 TIMES TO NO AVAIL....NOW MY E MODEL DRAG BIKE HAS THE SAME PROBLEM...I KINDA GAVE UP ON THE "L" FOR THE TIME BEING AND JUMPED ON THE "E" AND ABOUT 5 DAYS LATER THE SAME THING HAPPENED AND I'M GETTING THE SAME RESULTS....WHAT THE HECK AM I MISSING HERE?AM I DOING SOMETHING WRONG?????ANY HELP WITH THIS WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED I LOVE MY GS'S BUT I'M STARTING TO GET A LITTLE FRUSTRATED ](*,) ......THANK YOU AND KEEP THE RUBBER SIDE DOWN....ISH
 
Get a machine shop to insert a stainless steel dowel between the starter cltuch and the rotor. Make the hole so it is captive on both sides.

I went through 3-4 sets of allen screws before I solved the problem. My 1150 rotor had a dowel boss in the back but the dowel washn't long enough so it fell into the starter cltuch recess I guess from vibration.
 
The rotor nut should be torque down to 115-123 ft-lbs. Most likely it not tight enough.

PS how do you like those FBG carbs??? and do you have any 1/8 times.
 
Heat the rotor, and ice the crank, then put it on and tighten it up. One of those strap clamps works well to hold the rotor while tightening the nut. Also make sure the mating surfaces are clean.
 
Heat the rotor, and ice the crank, then put it on and tighten it up. One of those strap clamps works well to hold the rotor while tightening the nut. Also make sure the mating surfaces are clean.
Click to expand...

I agree with Luke... rotor in a 200 deg oven..ice packs taped to the crank.
I personally used a electric impact ( after having the rotor slip off with the bolt tightened to 125lbs) and let er rip as tight as the wrench would go. :wink:


4000 miles later the can starts every time :lol:


I personally did not do the dowel idea...but if you have access to a machine shop it cant hurt.

I also found out that replacing a failing clutch w/ a new unit will save you way more in time / gaskets / swearing.... for the katana it was $ 182.... but after 3 weeks of messing around it was worth it.

Oh yeah Luke forgot to tell you if you use the strap clamp you need 3 friends to hold the various other things that want to spin....

:lol: :lol: :lol: Good Luck
 
Can_O_Tuna said:
Oh yeah Luke forgot to tell you if you use the strap clamp you need 3 friends to hold the various other things that want to spin....

:lol: :lol: :lol: Good Luck
Click to expand...


It's a verifiable truth! :? :lol: :lol: :lol:
 
Details :roll:

Since then, I've discovered the wonders of an air impact wrench, I highly recommend, at least if you have anti-social tendencies as I do. :D
 
you might consider loc tite on the bolts that are holding the unit together . i WELDED MINE A YEAR OR 2 BACK.--Caps key :(

I'm not talking about the bolt on the crankshaf. :D
 
fbgs

fbgs

RacingJake said:
The rotor nut should be torque down to 115-123 ft-lbs. Most likely it not tight enough.

PS how do you like those FBG carbs??? and do you have any 1/8 times.
Click to expand...


love em quick response and the bike gets fuel and then some!!!!!!
 
starterclutch issues.....

starterclutch issues.....

thanx all i'm going to take a whack at it tommarrow after work...by the way does anyone know if the "L"1100 starter clutch is the same as the "e
"? :?: :?: :?:
 
In 1983 the 1100 went with a different type clutch assy. You need to know what type crank, small or big end. All the 1150 cranks have the big end.
 
Details

Since then, I've discovered the wonders of an air impact wrench, I highly recommend, at least if you have anti-social tendencies as I do.
_________________
Luke
Click to expand...

Is that what goes in the ammo box now??? 8O


you might consider loc tite on the bolts that are holding the unit together . i WELDED MINE A YEAR OR 2 BACK.--Caps key

I'm not talking about the bolt on the crankshaf.
Click to expand...

red loctite is what I used on the crank bolt..... do not use locktite on the assembly... this is info from the Suk mech I consulted.....But for the drag bike welding the unit together is what is done...the only problem w/ that is if you have a failure you are breaking more than $2 worth of bolts... if you search the site...someone used a piece of feeler gauge to tighten things up if your crank is scored
 
IT WORKS!!!!!

IT WORKS!!!!!

ICED THE CRANK USED A .04 FEELERGAGUE IN BETWEEN THE ASSY AND CRANK...RED 271 LOCTITE BIG ASS SNAPON IMPACT AND VOALA! IT WORKS \:D/ ....for now [-o<
 
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