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G
Guest
Guest
Nope. It says it does fit yours. Get your money back or the right one.
What tool did you finally use to remove your 80 GS1000 generator rotor? Does the 1980 model have a different size & pitch than earlier 78/79 GS1000's?80GS1000 said:
The previous Z1 tool link is a M16 X 1.5 and tkent02 swingarm pivot bolt is M16 X 1.5, one works & one does not?
I used Tom's trick to remove the rotor on my 1000 and it worked great. Some rotors are harder to remove than others or so I'm told, so if you have a stuburn one, I'd get the proper tool if the rotor doesn't pop off using reasonable force using the bolt method.
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80GS1000
Guest
First time removing a rotor here...
What am I doing wrong? I got the authentic Suzuki rotor removal tool and a new starter clutch from Bikebandit today and I tried removing the rotor. The rotor wouldn't budge.
I threaded the outer part of the tool onto the rotor till seated, and then the inner part into the crank(?) till seated. Then I hit the inner part with a 22 mm socket attached to an electric impact wrench while my wife held the other end of the crank under the ignition cover with a wrench to keep it from rotating. It's left hand thread so the impact wrench was turning to the left. Wouldn't budge. Are you supposed to hit the rotor with a rubber mallet or something to get it off after using the rotor remover tool?
Ideas please?
Also, what's the correct procedure to re-install the rotor and starter clutch during reassembly?
What am I doing wrong? I got the authentic Suzuki rotor removal tool and a new starter clutch from Bikebandit today and I tried removing the rotor. The rotor wouldn't budge.
I threaded the outer part of the tool onto the rotor till seated, and then the inner part into the crank(?) till seated. Then I hit the inner part with a 22 mm socket attached to an electric impact wrench while my wife held the other end of the crank under the ignition cover with a wrench to keep it from rotating. It's left hand thread so the impact wrench was turning to the left. Wouldn't budge. Are you supposed to hit the rotor with a rubber mallet or something to get it off after using the rotor remover tool?
Ideas please?
Also, what's the correct procedure to re-install the rotor and starter clutch during reassembly?
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run center bolt down as tight as possible.
remove socket and impact.
take a big hammer(steel)
and smack the F*ck out of the center bolt in the puller.
if it doesnt pop off then repeat procedure and bang it again.
if this doesnt work then heat the alt. rotor nose where the puller threads on and repeat above procedure.
small propane torch works fine and you should know how much/less heat to apply without lossening the magnets glue.
a small taper rotor will come off.
remove socket and impact.
take a big hammer(steel)
and smack the F*ck out of the center bolt in the puller.
if it doesnt pop off then repeat procedure and bang it again.
if this doesnt work then heat the alt. rotor nose where the puller threads on and repeat above procedure.
small propane torch works fine and you should know how much/less heat to apply without lossening the magnets glue.
a small taper rotor will come off.
Oh
Oh
So it is one of the easy ones
Propane did not work on the big end crank; use Mapp gas torch.
Watch out for the magnets.
Pos
P.S.
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?p=802139&highlight=mapp#post802139
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?p=767148&highlight=puller#post767148
Oh
So it is one of the easy ones
Propane did not work on the big end crank; use Mapp gas torch.
Watch out for the magnets.
Pos
P.S.
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?p=802139&highlight=mapp#post802139
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?p=767148&highlight=puller#post767148
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G
GQROD
Guest
The rotor may been put on with Red Locktite, mine was very difficult to remove initially.
Get a propane torch or mapp ( propane worked for me ), light it, stand it pointing the flame towards the rotor hub for at least 5 to ten minutes, this will weaken the locktite and allow you to remove the rotor.
In my case i bought the original suzuki slide hammer since i may have to do this again someday. The original weight is only 2 pounds which was not enough to get the rotor off.
I used a 25 ( twenty five ) weight lifting weight, yanked three times and the old rotor finally came off.
Some aren't this hard to come off however the PO of my bike did a lot wrong on this bike.
Be careful using the impact wrench as it may strip the threads on the puller.
Hope this helps.
Get a propane torch or mapp ( propane worked for me ), light it, stand it pointing the flame towards the rotor hub for at least 5 to ten minutes, this will weaken the locktite and allow you to remove the rotor.
In my case i bought the original suzuki slide hammer since i may have to do this again someday. The original weight is only 2 pounds which was not enough to get the rotor off.
I used a 25 ( twenty five ) weight lifting weight, yanked three times and the old rotor finally came off.
Some aren't this hard to come off however the PO of my bike did a lot wrong on this bike.
Be careful using the impact wrench as it may strip the threads on the puller.
Hope this helps.
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80GS1000,
how did things go with the alt. rotor removal?
just wondering...
how did things go with the alt. rotor removal?
just wondering...
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80GS1000
Guest
I gave up. The starter clutch only occasionally acts up (like once every 40-50 starts) so I'll put off replacing it until next winter and then have the local GS guru wrench do it. Lots more productive (and less frustrating) things to be done to the bike this winter.
Too bad you gave up. It can be hard to do unless you install the remover just right.First time removing a rotor here...
What am I doing wrong? I got the authentic Suzuki rotor removal tool and a new starter clutch from Bikebandit today and I tried removing the rotor. The rotor wouldn't budge.
I threaded the outer part of the tool onto the rotor till seated, and then the inner part into the crank(?) till seated. Then I hit the inner part with a 22 mm socket attached to an electric impact wrench while my wife held the other end of the crank under the ignition cover with a wrench to keep it from rotating. It's left hand thread so the impact wrench was turning to the left. Wouldn't budge. Are you supposed to hit the rotor with a rubber mallet or something to get it off after using the rotor remover tool?
Ideas please?
Also, what's the correct procedure to re-install the rotor and starter clutch during reassembly?
Where I think you went wrong is where you say you turned the center bolt down until seated. That's not enough. After you seat the socket firmly, you hold the socket with a wrench and firmly tighten the center bolt after you feel it seat. Give a good couple of whacks with a brass mallet while holding the socket. Removing the rotor depends on the rebound (outward) force that occurs just after you hit the bolt. Sometimes, you don't get immediate, noticable results. You then hold the socket from turning and tighten the center bolt a tad more. Repeat hitting the bolt. That little bit more you tightened is how much the rotor will come outward the next time you whack it, if done correctly. After a few cycles it should come off.
