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Starter clutch not engaging

  • Thread starter Thread starter TheDuke
  • Start date Start date
T

TheDuke

Guest
Let me start by saying that I've read most of the 6 pages of posts I get when I search for "starter clutch." A lot of folks have sheared bolts, mine are fine. I'm also not having issues removing the starter clutch...it is just not engaging. I've tried tightening to 20 lbs over spec (although I don't have access to an air impact wrench) and even heated the starter clutch in front of a space heater and iced the crank to get it on there good-n-tight. No dice.

As I sort through the last few issues post-rebuild I've found that the starter clutch doesn't seem to be engaging. The starter works correctly but the gear behind the clutch spins freely in either direction by hand and I've read that that it should only spin in one direction. Is this correct? Also, is the starter clutch magnetic? Could this be an electrical issue? I pulled it off to make sure everything was in order and wasn't able to deduce how the gear is supposed to actually spin the crank since it is on bearings.
 
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"...the gear behind the clutch spins freely in either direction by hand and I've read that that it should only spin in one direction. Is this correct? "

Yep, that gear has a hub, when it's driven by starter motor, the rollers in starter clutch engage hub and turn motor. The rollers are pushed into hub by 3 springs- one way they grab it, other they don't, your springs and/or rollers might be tired .
 
So I pulled the starter clutch and double checked everything. None of the bolts were sheared, I cleaned it to make sure there was no dirt/debris that would keep it from tightening on as it should, I even took the advice I found on the other threads and heated the starter clutch and iced the crank. Then I oiled it all to get it to slide on easy and torqued to slightly higher than spec (70 ft-lb). Still the gear just free spins and never engages the clutch/crank.

Could it be that the surface where the rollers on the starter clutch meet the gear is too worn and it isn't properly engaging?
 
Bonus points for searching and reading about starter clutch- yeah, some of the biggies destroy them.
The rotor could be on crankshaft at 100 ft-lbs and it won't help the clutch mechanism engage the hub on the gear. The 3 rollers( they don't actually roll, but jam into gear hub) need to be "dragging" on gear hub at rest.Then when gears spins, they lock up. I checked my spare setup yesterday; it locks one way, but free other way (it does this held horizontal or vertical). When rotor/clutch assembly is off crankshaft, the gear pulls out easily; but when putting it back in, the 3 rollers have to be pushed back slightly against their springs to let gear hub back in. Seems like your springs aren't keeping the rollers in contact with gear hub. The hub might be worn, but that would be obvious.
 
Yeah, if I manually turn mine it spins fine in both directions. I read that that isn't terribly uncommon and it takes the speed of the starter to get it to engagne, but clearly that isn't the case with mine. I suppose I should just snag another on ebay.
 
Is the rotor spinning on the end of the crank?
Have you pulled the rotor and looked at the clutch pieces?
 
Pull your rotor again; then you can pull off gear and inspect "rollers"- in fact, remove the 3 screws holding clutch housing onto rotor-this way you can see the springs and the drive pins that push on rollers. You might be able to just stretch springs, but they are cheap to replace.
 
That is what I am thinking, too. :-k

While you have the rotor off, check the action of the starter clutch. You should only be able to turn it in one direction. Slide the starter gear off the hub, but watch out for rollers, pins and springs. There should be three of each.

And, we still have not heard whether the rotor is spinning on the crank. With your mention of tightening it a bit over-spec, I would not suspect it, but need to rule that out, too.

By the way, if the starter CLUTCH is spinning, tightening the rotor nut is not going to help it at all.
icon_shrug.gif


.
 
Steve said:
That is what I am thinking, too. :-k

While you have the rotor off, check the action of the starter clutch. You should only be able to turn it in one direction. Slide the starter gear off the hub, but watch out for rollers, pins and springs. There should be three of each.

And, we still have not heard whether the rotor is spinning on the crank. With your mention of tightening it a bit over-spec, I would not suspect it, but need to rule that out, too.

By the way, if the starter CLUTCH is spinning, tightening the rotor nut is not going to help it at all.
icon_shrug.gif


.
Click to expand...

The starter clutch is not spinning. The gear is (obviously), the clutch and rotor are stationary. When I rotate the gear by hand (with it still mounted to the crank) it spins in both directions without grabbing. I replaced the clutch a while back because of the crack you can see in the photos below:



When I disassembled it on Monday there were no signs of wear on the rotor/clutch, gear, or crank. I will have time on Thursday to take it off again and test it by hand. I will take a few photos so you all can tell me if something looks off.
 
TheDuke said:
The starter clutch is not spinning. The gear is (obviously), the clutch and rotor are stationary.
Click to expand...
Will wait for the tear-down report, but in the meantime, ... there are two parts to the clutch. The gear is one of them. :-\\\

.
 
Steve said:
Will wait for the tear-down report, but in the meantime, ... there are two parts to the clutch. The gear is one of them. :-\\\

.
Click to expand...

Ah, thanks for the clarification. The terminology is not my strong suit.
 
Okay, so I ripped that b*tch off again this afternoon and it is definitely not engaging when turning it by hand. Like I said, I replaced the clutch with a used eBay piece and threw it all back together. What I'm finding is that there is actually some slop between the clutch rollers and the sliding surface on the gear...as in the diameter of the opening on the clutch is too big so there is no way for the rollers to engage.

Could the part have been mislabeled and I got one for a different year or something?

Now I'm weary about ordering yet another part from eBay but would rather not spend the $$$ for a new OEM starter clutch...hmmm....
 
On a lighter note, she finally started for me this afternoon with a hearty kick and some TLC. Now just to get the carbs adjusted and I can take her for her first spin around the block in a decade.
 
TheDuke said:
Okay, so I ripped that b*tch off again this afternoon and it is definitely not engaging when turning it by hand. Like I said, I replaced the clutch with a used eBay piece and threw it all back together. What I'm finding is that there is actually some slop between the clutch rollers and the sliding surface on the gear...as in the diameter of the opening on the clutch is too big so there is no way for the rollers to engage.

Could the part have been mislabeled and I got one for a different year or something?

Now I'm weary about ordering yet another part from eBay but would rather not spend the $$$ for a new OEM starter clutch...hmmm....
Click to expand...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hGaJnlA2uIE

This is what my started clutch stated to sound like on a 81 GS750E. Basically it would barely grab and sometime just spin. The issue is that the outer roller surface and the rollers them selves become warn. About 0.050" is all it takes (total) and the sprage clutch will slip. Sometime you can order the roller kit and it makes up enough clearance to get the clutch to engage, but it will not restore the wear on the hub.
The best thing is to get a pristine clutch replacement or a new one.

not mine but shows multiple issues.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2CGfStxPaF8
 
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