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Starter clutch

  • Thread starter Thread starter bybowtie
  • Start date Start date
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bybowtie

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Have an 85 1150 ef in need of a starter clutch...Any ideas?
 
Re: Starter clutch

The starter clutches are usually pretty bulletproof. About the only thing I can think of that would require a new one would be if the clutch housing is actually broken off. Do you have the starter clutch removed from the bike?

Earl


bybowtie said:
Have an 85 1150 ef in need of a starter clutch...Any ideas?
Click to expand...
 
It's my understanding that they have a habit of breaking the internal bolts for the starter clutch. You MUST use the correct tool to remove the stator rotor. You need to disassemble to find the problem, before spending $100 or more for a starter clutch
 
That is exactly it Lynn. Usually, a leaking petcock allowing fuel to seep through the vacuum line causing the oil level to be too high results in hydrolock when the starter is engaged. This causes the starter clutch to sheer off its three mounting bolts that are threaded into the rear of the stator rotor. The starter clutch mechanism is so simple, there isnt much that can go wrong with it other than to sheer off the mounting bolts.

There are probably three problems. 1. fuel petcock has to be faulty.
2. float bowl needles could also be leaking 3. starter clutch mounting bolts are broken and need to be replaced.

To remove the stator rotor and the starter clutch that is attached to the back of the rotor, for a 85 GS 1150, a 30 mm deep well rotor removal tool is required. The tool costs about $30. Sounds expensive until you dont buy it and find you have destroyed a $150 stator rotor trying to get it off.

Also, if the starter clutch bolts are broken off flush in the rotor housing, it is best to use a drill press and center drill the bolts with a 1/8" bit so you can turn them out with a screw extractor/easy out.

Earl


SqDancerLynn1 said:
It's my understanding that they have a habit of breaking the internal bolts for the starter clutch. You MUST use the correct tool to remove the stator rotor. You need to disassemble to find the problem, before spending $100 or more for a starter clutch
Click to expand...
 
hmm let me look into it a little further and get back to you.. I do know that the starter clutch was removed by the previous owner. Ill have to take the cover off and see how it looks
 
The stator cover will be held in place somewhat by the stator's magnetic field.
The cover has locater pins set into the mounting surfaces, so you must remove the cover by pulling it straight off. Any kind of prying, besides damaging the mating surface will also bind the alignment pins and the cover will not come off. Tap it a couple times with a rubber mallet to break the gasket seal. If you have a pair of the rubber gloves with the non skid grips on the fingers, that is about perfect. I just wash any oil off my hands and wipe the case with alcohol to remove any oil on it and pull the cover off with my hands. It will take 15 to 20 lbs of pull/grip to pull the cover off. (helps build strong fingers) :-) The trick is to be sure and pull the cover STRAIGHT off.

Also, you will need to drain the oil first, otherwise youre likely to end up with 4 quarts of oil in your BVD's. :-)

Earl

bybowtie said:
hmm let me look into it a little further and get back to you.. I do know that the starter clutch was removed by the previous owner. Ill have to take the cover off and see how it looks
Click to expand...
 
Did you buy this GS off of somebody on the site? I remember a guy on here found that his crank was messed up and a few days later he was selling it on the For Sale forum.

Steve
 
I did buy it from a guy on here.He said that everything looked fine when he checked it but not having the tools available at the time I didnt check it myself...So as far as I know the crank is clean.I will be picking up the bike either sunday or next weekend depending on our schedules meshing.. Knock on wood that the guy was straight with me or I am screwed..
 
I can't figure out who it was but if he said he was already into the motor and says it looks okay then it's okay. Maybe somebody here remembers the owner of that 1150, my searching hasn't come up with anything.

Steve
 
Sometimes, the clutch mounting bolts will sheer of at an angle causing a bind, and scoring the backside of the rotor housing. This can result in the clutch feeling solidly mounted when inspected and pushed with your hand. The only certain way is to remove the rotor, clutch housing and clutch mount bolts and inspect them before reinstalling them.

Earl


srivett said:
I can't figure out who it was but if he said he was already into the motor and says it looks okay then it's okay. Maybe somebody here remembers the owner of that 1150, my searching hasn't come up with anything.

Steve
Click to expand...
 
OK Ill check those points.. I know the clutch isnt there(according to the guy I bought it from) but the rest SHOULD be noticible..
Earlfor your still a venerable source of knowledge, you helped me quite a bit about a year ago when I brought 2 gs1100gls from the graveyard back to life.. Thanks
 
Anytime. :-) :-) Just call me blabbermouth. :-)

Earl

bybowtie said:
OK Ill check those points.. I know the clutch isnt there(according to the guy I bought it from) but the rest SHOULD be noticible..
Earlfor your still a venerable source of knowledge, you helped me quite a bit about a year ago when I brought 2 gs1100gls from the graveyard back to life.. Thanks
Click to expand...
 
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