Starter keeps spinning once bike is started

[Corgi]

Hello. I have an 82 GS1100E. Once the bike is started and the engine is running the starter does not disengage and keeps spinning. I cannot let the bike run for more than a second otherwise it will blow this starter as it did my first one. Luckily I had an extra starter. I've made sure the gear and washers that the starter gear spins is assembled just like the diagram. I would like to know if this a starter clutch problem before I take everything off again and have to replace it. Any insight would be greatly appreciated!

Corgi

 

[tom203]

Most likely a starter clutch issue- rollers jammed. But first make sure your starter solenoid is not sticking "on" when you releasestarterbutton.

this has happened to you before on same bike??

 

[Corgi]

Most likely a starter clutch issue- rollers jammed. But first make sure your starter solenoid is not sticking "on" when you releasestarterbutton.

this has happened to you before on same bike??

I will try bypassing the starter solenoid and if that does not work, I will take the starter clutch off and examine that. Thank you!

 

[Steve]

Before you go exotic on your bypassing and other stuff, just do one simple test. It requires a test light or a voltmeter.

Connect the test light (or meter) to the starter terminal of the solenoid. You should see no power. With the ignition key ON, push the starter button (pull the clutch if necessary), you should see power. Release the starter button, you should see no power.

If the test light went out, you have a mechanical condition that is keeping your starter running, likely the starter clutch.

If the test light stayed ON, you have a sticking solenoid. Go to your favorite auto parts store, Lowe's, Home Depot, any place that sells lawn tractors, get a solenoid for about $15-20, install it and go for a victory ride.

.

 

[Guest]

I agree with Steve. Test the solenoid with a meter(or light) to see if it's sticking. It's the easiest thing to check. If you don't have either handy, pull your spark plug wires so it can't start and try starting it. If the starter keeps spinning after you let off the button that will eliminate the starter clutch being the issue, but you'll still need to see if it's the solenoid or the start button. I don't see many starter clutches fail that way, it's usually slipping, not grabbing the crank when it fails. Not saying that isn't possible, I've just never seen it happen.

 

[chuck hahn]

You can also remove the selinoid from the bike and bench test it. The yellow wire is the hot wire and the selinoid body is the ground. Touch the yellow wire to the POS battery terminal and then ground the body to the NEG terminal. It should click. Remove the body from the battery and it should release. Touch it to the NEG terminal again and do it several times to see if the selinoid is functioning correctly.

 

[Guest]

You can also remove the selinoid from the bike and bench test it. The yellow wire is the hot wire and the selinoid body is the ground. Touch the yellow wire to the POS battery terminal and then ground the body to the NEG terminal. It should click. Remove the body from the battery and it should release. Touch it to the NEG terminal again and do it several times to see if the selinoid is functioning correctly.

Just because you here a click doesn't mean it works, but since his does pass current to the starter his does work.

 

[Steve]

One possibility is that it sticks in the "works" position. :-k

.

 

[Guest]

One possibility is that it sticks in the "works" position. :-k

.

It wouldn't be clicking if it were stuck.

 

[Steve]

Of the ones where I have seen the insides, the copper disk that makes the contact isn't always firmly attached to the part that moves. Usually spring-loaded. The moving part might retract (and click), but the copper part that bridges the contacts can be stuck.

.

 

[Guest]

Of the ones where I have seen the insides, the copper disk that makes the contact isn't always firmly attached to the part that moves. Usually spring-loaded. The moving part might retract (and click), but the copper part that bridges the contacts can be stuck.

.

I'll take your word on that as I've never dissected one in that condition. I just assumed the plate striking the contacts was the cause of the click sound.

To be truthful, I've never dissected one in any condition.

 

[chuck hahn]

Somebody already posted Rick..but if it sticks in the closed position it will click only once. I said to do it "several" times to see its functioning correctly.

 

[chuck hahn]

And some selinoids have just a thick bar on top of the rod that moves when its energized. Rod moves up and bar completes the circuit. I have had said bar spot weld itself to the terminal from the inside and not release...so there are just a few possibilities.

 

[Brendan W]

If the variable click solenoids ever sort themselves out you could try the following.
Take off the ignition pick up cover and the starter motor cover.
Turn the motor over back and forward with a ring spanner on the crank screw and a finger on the starter motor.
You might feel a slight kick in the starter as the slack is taken up and if it's present equally both ways you have a strong pointer to the clutch being stuck.
A negative result would not necessarily mean that the clutch is ok. I'm sure those things have figured out a way to seize up for a bit and then free off when you come back looking.