starter problem

[Dodik]

So last night as i was riding home bike died on me now this is due to my airbox leaks air/fuel mixture that isnt related to my new problem. when i go to start it again only solenoid click. checked the battery had 12.67v with lights on. tried to screw driver over the contacts and nothing it doesnt even try to spin the starter. so i took cover off discovered some gruesome stuff the wire connection pole had two nuts and a wire in between sandwiched but the whole thing was taped all around and that stud moves quite a bit. looking at fiche on partshark i see that stud is actually connected or is a part of "terminal set brush" does it suppose to move around or more or less be stationary? im going to pull the starter and clean it see whats wrong and stuff maybe replace whatever is worn and just clean whatever i can. the manual says i need to pull carbs and take tensioner off, is there an easier method? i read that most people just pull it out? this is all on 1982 750 E. thanks in advance

 

[tom203]

Let's see if I'm following this. First you jump solenoid contacts with screwdriver- nothing, then you remove starter cover and discover that stud connection (+ from solenoid ) on starter motor is loose and taped up by some PO ?
If so, you have to pull starter- if it's like my bike ( 650), I can't see how to do it without pulling carbs and tensioner.
The stud on starter needs to tight or you could get a nasty short circuit. At best, you'll get erratic starting.

 

[Dodik]

yep you got it right, i kind of figured tape on a very rusty contact is a no go. allright then ill go through procedures described in the manual. thanks

 

[Dodik]

well just by looking at the fiche i think that terminal stud is basically grounded right now because there is suppose to be an o-ring there. im not an expert but i think if it is grounded starter will not work.

 

[tom203]

If that stud grounded to engine block , you'd know about it real quick when you activated solenoid- it would be a short circuit and it would probably fry solenoid. That o-ring is probably designed to keep water out of motor's innards. Anyways, when you get around to pulling starter, make sure you understand how cam chain tensioner works before you remove it. Look at your manual- there's a locking nut and screw on tensioner that freezes plunger shaft before you pull tensioner out.

 

[blowerbike]

the starter can be removed with the carbs on.
if you don't have an air box then pull the carbs to make it easier but it can be removed.

 

[tom203]

the starter can be removed with the carbs on.
if you don't have an air box then pull the carbs to make it easier but it can be removed.

Maybe on his 750, but no way on my 650 unless I use a sawzall on case! the tensioner needs to come off!

 

[blowerbike]

Maybe on his 750, but no way on my 650 unless I use a sawzall on case! the tensioner needs to come off!

a 650 is a different platform.
750 and up is another animal...i work on these animals.

 

[tom203]

a 650 is a different platform.
750 and up is another animal...i work on these animals.

Hopefully you're right, since it would save alot of work. Maybe his manual is leading him astray, claiming carb removal is required. Beats me, as I've only got a 650 to stare at.

 

[Dodik]

thanks for the input guys, i'll try with carbs on, and yes there is a pretty clear how to in the manual how to remove and then reinstall tensioner. i did some testing with multimeter and yes as of now it is grounded there is no to very little resistance between - on the battery and that terminal stud. but on the bright side i learned how to push start the thing quite easily. going to do it this saturday and post pics for reference for other's with similar problems.

 

[tom203]

Sometimes the manuals are written in a " one size fits all approach " . That's what nice about the gs resources- real world , hands on experience that can prevent alot of aggravation! Not having to remove carbs is a big timesaver- definitely give it a try!