Starter /starter clutch question

[Mad GS 750 E]

So I've been trying to track down my engine noise, clutch checked out ok, so I'm looking at my starter clutch. Pulled the cover and starter clutch did have a little play maybe 16th inch, spins freely with no noise when spun. I know there should no play but do you think that little bit of play could make noise while running? I have noticed a weird noise kinda klunk at starter when I shut the bike off ,so I pulled the starter and turning the gear sounded klunke open it up and one of the magnets was off and starting to get chew up. Would that make a noise when running? Does anybody have a starter housing with the magnets intact they don't need or want to get rid of? having problems getting video and pics up ,rookie try again tomorrow thanks ---mike

 

[Mad GS 750 E]

So anybody have a old starter /just housing with magnets attached the want to get rid of or sell ?Don't want to spend $185 on a new one. And does any one have a puller for the rotor that I can borrow for 83 1100 e, if not which puller kit do you recommend .pic of my bike not my garage neighbor lets me use lift when I need it.Thanks

 

[tom203]

Member chef1366 has the unit you need for $65 apparently. Plus he'll ponit you to right rotor puller!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Suzuki-80-8...ash=item41a02b7bd7:g:ZtAAAOSw-jhUHy7R&vxp=mtr

 

[Mad GS 750 E]

Checked out my starter clutch on my 83 1100 e, spins freely without noise ,but does have some play.so I need to pull rotor so need to get puller 30mm x1,5 right .So the big part screws on and the bolt just sits on the indent on the crank right ? (no threads in the hole).What do I need to rebuild starter clutch ,are the aftermarket spring /internals ok ? should I get a thrust washer? how do you post more than one pic at time, cant upload video it says invalid file any advice? thanks

 

[tom203]

Thrust washer? Here's a pic of the roller/spring setup that engages crank in one direction. Basscliff explains how to load pics more efficiently....
http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/images/how_to_post_pictures.pdf

 

[Mad GS 750 E]

So on the end of my crank(83 1100) there are no threads in hole, look at previous pic, is that normal for an 83 crank ?so the puller screws on rotor part and the bolt just goes on the indent on the crank and pulls it off ? (hopefully). The thrust washer is #14 on schematic maybe its called wave washer not sure ,does this washer usually need replacing? Thanks

 

[tom203]

Yes, the tool screws onto rotor and its bolt pushes against crank end forcing rotor off- impact wrench will help,cuz it's likely stuck on good. You might find a cycle shop that will loan you the tool.

 

[Mad GS 750 E]

So I got my stubblefield rotor puller today for my 83 1100 e ,figured I give it a shot. The tools big side that goes on the rotor started to strip the last couple of threads coming off and screwed up a thread or two on the rotor . The book says to back out nut alittle and use the puller ,but it seems if the nut was off the tool might thread on farther. Do you leave nut on or take it off before you use puller? I thought they might want you to initially leave nut on so rotor couldn't fly off . I used impact hammer at 100lbs and it didn't budge just stripped my threads and ****ed me off .I know I should use heat but don't have any gas available, any suggestions? thanks

 

[Mad GS 750 E]

Hi guna try to take my rotor/starter clutch on my 83 1100 e (2nd try) . Do you take the nut totally off the crank (book says to loosen but leave on until rotor is loose),seems the tool goes on farther with the nut off, but will the rotor come flying off if nut is not there to stop it? I have a MAP torch so do I heat it up first then use air hammer on rotor tool and it should come off ? or are there any other tricks to it? Thanks

 

[gearhead13]

I always took the nut right off. Never had a problem. Make sure the outer part of the puller is able to screw all the way in, back out the center bolt so it can.

 

[posplayr]

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=25368&d=1241969424

My 1100E was a BIACH to get off. Broke the tool and had to reinforce it. Propane was not good enough needed MAPP and two big breaker to do a deadlift feet on one bar and the both hand on teh other. Maybe the hydraulic gun will do it.

Heat right at the hub, not the crank and then slip the tool on quickly and give here a whirl.

 

[Mad GS 750 E]

Posplayr when u say use two breaker bars I know one goes on small bolt on puller where does the other on go ? im guessing on bolt on other side crank ( pick-up side) to stop crank from spinning ? When I use the map heat you say to heat up outside of rotor -- how long and how hot do I want to get it ? Is there any other tricks to keep the crank from turning ? thank for all the help

 

[posplayr]

Posplayr when u say use two breaker bars I know one goes on small bolt on puller where does the other on go ? im guessing on bolt on other side crank ( pick-up side) to stop crank from spinning ? When I use the map heat you say to heat up outside of rotor -- how long and how hot do I want to get it ? Is there any other tricks to keep the crank from turning ? thank for all the help

I posted to heat the hub NOT the rotor. The hub is the bug of the rotor . Stay away from the magnets.

The tool has a bolt (breaker bar#1) and a flat spots for a wrench(breaker bar #2).

I don't remember now if I put the tool on and heated it with the hub or not.

heat for about 30sec to 1 min. Might be difficult to get the tool on after heating so put it on first

 

[Mad GS 750 E]

Still a little unclear so I heat the hub /bug of rotor, which is the inside middle of rotor? Ithought you said don't heat the crank wont that heat the crank,what will happen if the crank heats up to much? I will still need someone to hold the crank on the pick-up side to stop the motor from turnin right ?Sorry for so many questions just want to make sure this attempt goes better than the first one. Thanks again

I posted to heat the hub NOT the rotor. The hub is the bug of the rotor . Stay away from the magnets.

The tool has a bolt (breaker bar#1) and a flat spots for a wrench(breaker bar #2).

I don't remember now if I put the tool on and heated it with the hub or not.

heat for about 30sec to 1 min. Might be difficult to get the tool on after heating so put it on first

 

[gs1197]

You might try tightening the puller as much as you can, then let it sit overnight.
Tighten a little more the next day, and let it sit.

Last one I pulled took 4 days....but it finally popped off.

 

[one_civic]

tighten the puller and give it a whack with a hammer,

tighten again, then whack with hammer,

Repeat until rotor is off, heat will help

 

[posplayr]

Still a little unclear so I heat the hub /bug of rotor, which is the inside middle of rotor? Ithought you said don't heat the crank wont that heat the crank,what will happen if the crank heats up to much? I will still need someone to hold the crank on the pick-up side to stop the motor from turnin right ?Sorry for so many questions just want to make sure this attempt goes better than the first one. Thanks again

This is not brain surgery and is going to require some brute strength if it has never been off.
1.) Put the MAPP flame on the hub, not the rotor magnets or the crank. The hub.
2.) Use a big hammer and hit the end of the tool when under tension (thanks guys, I forgot)
3.) Try and get it to budge (impact wrench or breaker bars)
4.) Rinse and repeat

If you use the standard store bought tool , you will probably strip the threads as I showed. The tap and bolt sizes are in the picture I showed to upgrade the tool.

 

[Guest]

You might try tightening the puller as much as you can, then let it sit overnight.
Tighten a little more the next day, and let it sit.

Last one I pulled took 4 days....but it finally popped off.

+1 on this method; it's worked for me, too.

 

[Mad GS 750 E]

Ok I will try this weekend when I can get some help from my friends ,thanks for all the advice.

 

[Mad GS 750 E]

Well I tried to get off rotor (3rd time) trashed threads on tool. Borrowed better tool from bike shop (think it was parts unlimited tool ) seemed much heavier and the part that goes on rotor was a lot deeper almost twice as deep (which is better if you need to cut off stripped treads). Well I put the tool on at 5o ft lbs tried air hammer no luck, kept heating with MAPP torch and hitting tool .after an hr and 1/2 and I went up to 60 ft lbs on tool and IT FINALLY CAME OFF --4TH TIME IS A CHARM!!! LOL. 2 Starter clutch bolts were loose and 1 fell right out when I turned it over --it broke in half at rotor .Has anybody seen that before?? everything else looked ok visually need to measure things still. I did notice tho there is a ring of some kind behind the magnets in the rotor (pointing to with screwdriver) it seems hard and the heat probably did bad things to it cant find on parts list what is it ? and is it a problem do I need to take out off there ? Not sure what to do about that seems brittle don't want to leave in and pieces start breaking off any advice? Should I just order new parts for starter clutch or are there measurements for the parts? I know I need new bolts ,bearing ,wave washer, and maybe the springs ,pucks internals, should I just order everything? thanks