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Starter Voltage Question

  • Thread starter Thread starter REGonz
  • Start date Start date
R

REGonz

Guest
Im working on replacing my Right Hand Assembly. At the same time, I replaced the battery.

Nothing happens when you press the start button and the switch is set to RUN.

I had another RH assembly - so I stripped it to test the wires. If youve ever seen the inside, you'll see 3 wires. 2 of them are connected via the "run" switch which connects to a small metal piece. The other wire runs to another small metal piece and you get a current by connecting the 2 with the start button.

When I stripped it down to base wires so I could hook up a tester, I noticed that the voltage is in the negative around -7 or so.

1. Is this the issue why I cant get contact
2. How do I fix it?
 
A negative voltage would indicate that the meter is connected in opposite polarity but you likely already know that. Are you testing voltage with key on and the switch unit and wiring connected?

Any chance your meter is auto ranging and you have 7 micro-volts?

You should show battery voltage across an open switch and (ideally) zero or at least less than 0.2 volts across a closed one.
 
Where are you looking for something to happen and getting "nothing"?

If you are looking for something at the starter, try pulling the clutch, then pushing the starter button.

.
 
Greetings and Salutations!!

Greetings and Salutations!!

Hi Mr. REGonz,

What bike are we talking about? (Hint: Put the year/model in your sig file.) As Mr. Steve suggests, most of these bikes are equipped with a clutch and/or kickstand safety switch. On my bike I must pull in the clutch in order for the start button to work but I do not have a kick stand safety switch. Anyway...


I've been away so I apologize for being late with your "mega-welcome".

Let me dump a TON of information on you and share some GS lovin'. :D

I just stopped by to welcome you to the forum in my own, special way.
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If there's anything you'd like to know about the Suzuki GS model bikes, and most others actually, you've come to the right place. There's a lot of knowledge and experience here in the community. Come on in and let me say "HOoooowwwDY!"....
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Here is your very own magical, mystical, mythical, mind-expanding "mega-welcome". Please take notice of the "Top 10 Common Issues", "Top 15 Tips For GS Happiness", the Carb Cleanup Series, and the Stator Papers. All of these tasks must be addressed in order to have a safe, reliable machine. This is what NOT to do: Top 10 Newbie Mistakes. Now let me roll out the welcome mat for you...

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Please click here for your mega-welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website where I've been collecting the wisdom of this generous community. Don't forget, we like pictures! Not you, your bike! :D

Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
My apologies I wasnt even considering the specs of the bike :eek:

Its a 1978 GS1000 E

When I get back to the house I'll try pulling the clutch, but I could swear it started before as long as it was in neutral.

When I connected the multimeter to it I tried at the switch, and again where the switch connects to the wiring harness. The key was in and turned "on". I can verify that by the headlight and brake lights.

-BassCliff: Thanks for the mega welcome! I actually joined this forum a few years back when I first got the bike and needed to clean the carbs.

If you're interested in a good story here's why I was gone off the forums.

When I joined the military in 2007 I was unemployed for a couple of months, so I sold the bike to pay for rent. It tore my heart out to watch the kid ride off with it, but I felt ok because his dad had a GS1000 and they wanted the same bike.

I always wondered what happened to the bike, but counted it as a loss. A few months ago I was passing through a small town and saw 3 bikes for sale in some guys yard. One of them looked like a GS - so I stopped and gave it a look. It was the same make and model as mine, and when I looked even closer I noticed it had my old license plate on it.

The wifee-poo said grab the sucker so I did. Now I got my first bike back, unfortunately she's just sitting. She did this to me before when I bought her the first time. This time its the starter thats being bizarre.

The Run switch was not connecting properly so I disassembled it for cleaning. In the process my starter button broke, so the only way I could start it was with a paperclip by sticking it in the hole where the button was. I just got a new starter switch in from a member here, and now nothing will start at all.

Very..... frustrating.
 
Power to the engine run switch... orange/white (changes to orange after the connector)

Power from the start switch is internally connected inside the right hand switch, to the starter button...

Power out to the starter solenoid... yellow/green
 
Make sure the solenoid is properly grounded, run a wire from it to the frame if necessary. Then test by touching the yellow/green to the battery +. Make damn sure the bike is in neutral first.

Then reconnect the yellow green and move the the headlight bucket. Make sure the clutch interlock is either connected or if bypassed properly connected. You can run a lead from the + terminal of the battery into the bucket and use to test with, by applying power the starter should engage.

I use a test light on the solenoid instead of the starter, saves the battery and starter from being overworked. An old turn signal works for this.

The run switch gets power from ignition and offers it to the starter button. When you connect the switch the run power is diverted to the solenoid through the clutch interlock switch.
 
REGonz said:
When I get back to the house I'll try pulling the clutch, but I could swear it started before as long as it was in neutral.
Click to expand...
On a GS, if it will start in neutral, it will start in ANY gear. :eek:

There is no connection between gear position and ability to start the engine.

The only "safety" switch is in the clutch, and it has to be pulled whether the trans is in neutral or in gear (unless the switch has been bypassed. :rolleyes:

.
 
Spoke too soon - Im editing this post.

Ok I tried it with the clutch. The start button tried to crank the starter. I put the grip and throttle cables back in it and put the assembly in its proper place.

Sat on the bike, tried to start it. Didnt want to turn over - no big deal, Im pretty sure its cause the carbs are empty.

Set the fuel to Prime and tried again.

No starter action. - Fuses are okay.

Turned key off and back on - it tried to crank. I let it go, pressed the button again and nothing.

Now nothing is wanting to start.

Where else can I look for an unexpected short or ground?

-FYI there is a yellow cable coming from my clutch with a green stripe on it - its not connected to anything. Im pretty sure thats the additional safety. BUT I can also tell you it hasnt been connected for a loooong time.

Im not an automotive guy - so if anybody has any ideas I'd greatly appreciate them.
 
Last edited:
There is no clutch switch on a 1978 GS, they were first installed on the 1980 models.
 
Hi,

Do you have a dead battery now? Did you make sure the solenoid has a good ground?

Thanks for that information Mr. tkent02. I was just guessing since I didn't know what model we were talking about.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Well we're good now.

There was a short in a wire that goes to the clutch - at least thats where I think it went.

The title says '78 - so Im not sure why it would have a clutch safety, unless the wire is there simply to make sure that there IS a clutch.

One of the previous owners bypassed it. I have a set of 2 wires coming out of the wiring harness - if I connect them the starter will engage. If I connect them in either order to the wires hanging from my clutch, the starter will engage.

Not sure why - but it is what it is. Went for a ride last night, and I think I need my carbs re-synced. But thats for another forum thread ;)
 
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