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Starting issue (video attached)

  • Thread starter Thread starter kylemanley1
  • Start date Start date
K

kylemanley1

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Hey guys. I've had this issue for quite a while now with the bike. When I try to start it just clicks and if I push start button a few times it will usually turn slow once or twice and then turn over and start. Usually only does this when the bike is cold. Don't know if it's just a bad starter or where I should start. Thanks
 
Sounds like a dead battery. What is the battery voltage:
1. before you turn the key on
2. after you turn the key on, but before hitting the button
3. while you are pressing the starter button
4. after you are done trying
5. after turning the key off
 
Yes, sounds like a weak battery. You can try jumping/boosting it with a NON running vehicle to see if it gets up to speed. Starter motor might be tired,worn or dirty brushes. This starter motor has different rear mount than most, shares starter with the 650 shafties, gs300. Ebay usually has some
 
I had a similar (I think really similar) thing happen - I think Tom203 gave me almost the exact same advice:
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?233119-Dead-Starter-Motor/page3

Agree with the others - Could be bad battery, but in my case it was the starter. I bought a rebuild kit from Starter Stockers and it's worked great ever since. It cost $30 + shipping. You can always open the starter up and take a look at if the brushes are worn. I might have some pictures of my worn ones I'll take a look later.

http://www.stockers.com/index.php?dt=RBK-4S
 
usually, and given the click you hear, Likely Help is as above,
...but if you do think the battery is ok, you can get an old screwdriver and place across the two big solenoid posts to see if it'll start better....Warning SPARKS! (+gas = Boom! and possible slight welding of old screwdriver! :)
But If it spins quickly now, it indicates solenoid, starter button, and connection-to-these issues....

If not, why isn't your battery charged...?
 
Here's what my old brushes looked like if you are pulling your starter and want to compare:

26597255651_79553f5c9a.jpg

26662736885_fe25642476.jpg
 
Took starter out tried to test it and when I try to test it with 12v battery sparks fly? Doesn't seem right
 
Did you ever end up getting the rebuild kit?

If your testing procedure is what mine was which is just hooking it up to the battery and then grounding it (far away from where any gas might be) then sparks make sense.
 
sam000lee said:
Did you ever end up getting the rebuild kit?

If your testing procedure is what mine was which is just hooking it up to the battery and then grounding it (far away from where any gas might be) then sparks make sense.
Click to expand...

Yes I got a caltric rebuild kit but it came with more stuff that I don't think is on my starter. I regretfully didn't pay much attention to how everything came apart and now I'm a little worried I won't put it together right. Didn't see any broken or loose magnets. Brushes were worn about halfway
 
I have the same issue. I've rebuilt and replaced starter. It will do it on a (newer) battery charge too. If it doesn't catch right away I'll end up with a dead battery. If I take the plugs out, it'll cycle just fine.
 
Wow... first thing to check is resting battery voltage. If you have 12.5VDC or above with the key off, then battery is charged sufficiently and then you go disassembling stuff. To check the starter, by the way, just take it out and connect a 14 ga. wire to the pos terminal of your battery and wrap another wire of same gauge around mount hole and touch it to negative terminal of battery. If the starter spins, it likely isn't the problem.

If the battery doesn't have 12.5VDC or above, it isn't charged fully. The charging system may not be up to snuff or the battery is bad. Can't think of any other options. To check a battery, buy a small eye-dropper looking thing at the parts store called a manometer. This thing will colored balls. Get the small one that is about 4 inches long and put a small hose on the end and draw in battery fluid. The packaging will say that if so many balls float, etc but ignore this and if ALL THE BALLS don't float, the cell is sulfated and the battery is shot. A bike battery, once the crud starts growing on the cell walls the battery is toast unless you have a fancy float charger that can sometimes fix this. Most of the time not. New battery time. Buy a decent float charger like a battery tender.
 
It's been happening for me since I purchased the bike. I replaced the battery first. It 'kind of' got better. After three try's with a fully charged battery(13.4V) it went down to 12.4V. If I take off the plugs, it cycles just fine.

Can anyone suggest anything else?!
 
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