• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

stator and coil question

  • Thread starter Thread starter harman84
  • Start date Start date
H

harman84

Guest
I think I narrowed my stalling problem to the charging system. I has a question about my stator ac voltage test. I had 87 volts on all three wires. Does this mean the stator is working. When I check dc volts at battery I will get 14 volts but I have to hold it at 3000rpms for a minute or two. It slowly creeps up from 12.3 idle to 14. Would a bad rr make it act like this?

On the coils manual says left coil should be 1&4 and 2&3 right coil. On my bike I have left coil for 1&2 and right coil for 3&4. It run good like this and the way the plug ends are wont let me do it the other way. Which way should it be?
 
Forget about coils. I pulled tank to get a good look and they were correct.
 
How good is the battery? If the battery is weak, it will get to 14 volts rather slowly.

.
 
I did check all three wires in the ac test and I did check them to the engine case and they were alright. The previous owner had put in a new battery so I think the battery should be in good shape. The rr has been replaced but not sure if it is good or not. I am going to try and check it but having trouble understanding procedure. I will read up on it later tonight. Question about my rr. I have soldered the 3 wires to the stator wires and have 2 other wires left. One is red and other is a small black&white. The b/w wire goes into the wire harness. Is this a ground? The red wire goes to the starter solenoid. I assume this puts power back into the battery through the positive battery cable?
 
........... The b/w wire goes into the wire harness. Is this a ground? ..
Yes.
But more specifically is a wire in the wiring harness that is connected to the other blk/wht wires in the harness, and one of those other ones is suppose to be connected to the frame somewhere (typically up on top of frame rearward of battery box). That blk/wht wire there by the r/r usally has a ring terminal and under the soleonid bolt. And the r/r has a black wire also with ring terminal at that same bolt. THe wire from the harness is to provide a ground for R/R and the solenoid, both.
So dont solder the blk/wht directly to the black wire, because that leaves out the solenoid.

SOmetimes that blk/wht wire doesnt provide a good enough ground for the r/r to work properly. So many folks (including me) recommmend adding another ground wire from the solenoidf bolt to battery negitive. (not certain that this is related to the specific problem you stated).
Another reason for adding another ground wire is that sometimes when a R/R fails, dpending on how it fails, it can dump lots of current down the ground wire and if that is the blk/wht wire thru the wiring harness that is heating up it melts other wires next to it in the harness.
 
Last edited:
.............. The red wire goes to the starter solenoid. I assume this puts power back into the battery through the positive battery cable?
Yes. If you mean the r/r redwire goes straight to the solenoid in addition to a red wire from the wiring harness.... then that is not the stock wiring, but not a problem, other than it is not fused. If something in the r/r shorts to ground (which is one way it can fail) then it will turn that wiring into a toaster heater element and melt everything thing near it untill either the battery goes dead or the wire melts apart.

More stock wiring is the r/r red wire is plugged into another red wire into the wiring harness that is connected to the red wire between the fuse block and the ignition switch (at a spot that is in the wiring harness under the black tape). So if the r/r shorts to ground it blows the main fuse.

Again, this is not related to the problem you mentioned.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the info red man. I have a pic of what the previous owner did. Not sure why he put the red wire to the solenoid. Should I put it back to the stock position? You mentioned adding another ground off the solenoid. Is this have anything to do with helping ground rr? Also not sure where to attach it on solenoid.

I also did a diode check on the rr by putting positive test lead on negative lug on rr. I then touched the negative test lead to the other 4 lugs. The 3 for the stator were .525v and the last lug was .930v. The procedure says they all should be 400-600v. I am out of range on the red wire lug. Would this confirm a bad rr?
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    19.7 KB · Views: 0
Back
Top