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stator busted

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

Guest
figured out my stator is busted, let it run, then disconnect battery, bikes dies which means stator is not producing enuff voltage. damn
 
The bike will not run when the battery is disconnected regardless of the condition of the charging system. Use a meter to check the charging voltage, anything else is guess work.

bill
 
I'm not sure about this with our Suzuki's, but if you perform the battery-disconnect-test-with-engine-running test on a modern alternator equipped car, the diodes in the alternator fry very quickly. That test is a hold over from the generator days. As Ice109 said, use a meter and the proper test procedure.
 
i did that and when i rev it sometimes spikes to 13 volts but never consistantly
 
I would check the reg/rect. Check the stator pages in forum for procedure to check the charging circuit Other wise you are just guessing
 
It sounds as if the stator line that loops up to the headlight switch has corroded (very common). You need to bypass that unnecessary circuit and you will probably get your 14+ volts back immediately. Do you have a manual with schematic? Do you know how to do the AC voltage test? If you are not absolutely sure about these procedures, ask for more clarification.
 
my brother is a ford mechanic he still performs the battery disconnect test (when he doesn't have access to a meter).i would think if it fried something the engineers at ford would have told someone not to do it by now
 
It sounds as if the stator line that loops up to the headlight switch has corroded (very common).
Click to expand...

Not all GS's have the line that goes to the headlight circuit off of the stator. My '85 700 sends all three phases directly to the R/R before it gets split in the fuse block for different circuits. Ice's '85 550 is probably wired about the same as my 700.

The testing procedure for my 700 involves disconnecting the three stator wires and running the bike at 5,000 rpm. You then place the probe of a multi-tester in each of the three wires. + probe in one terminal and - probe in another. Keep the + probe on the same wire and check the other two with the - probe. Then move the + probe to the next wire and check the other two with the - probe. Again + on the remaining wire. Check each of the wires against each other two this way. I'm not sure what voltage you should look for on a 550, my 700 calls for 80 volts AC. You should get consistent readings on each attempt.

You can do a continuity check using the same procedure. With the motor off check each wire against the other two. You should get a tone if the stator is okay as far as shorts or breaks.
 
Right here on this site, go to the "In the Garage" section, and look for "The Stator Papers".

Print them out, completely, then take them with you to the bike, along with a good Volt-Ohmmeter, preferably a digital one.

Follow the instructions in order...there are no shortcuts...
 
Hey, Grave. Thanks for the info. I got my information from a radio talk show I listened to back east by Pat Goss of Motorweek. Who knows, maybe he was a bit over-reactive. Anyway, I believe the advice of using the meter and the "The Stator Papers" is the safest and surest way of truly diagnosing the problem.
 
Follow the procedures on this site to check out your electrical system. I did, and found the wire from one leg of the stator to the light switch was broken and therefore was only operating on two thirds of its potential.

Lynn - how about Found On Road Dead?

I sorry JJ, but I've the two WORST cars I've ever owned were Fords. I tired to like them, but they didn't like me.

Terry
 
IMHO, the only respectable way to test the stator is to unplug it WITH THE BIKE NOT RUNNING and check for continuity across each phase. Why risk frying something when a $10 meter and 5 minutes can give you an absolutely definative test?
 
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