Stator issues.

[rasndas]

My 1983 GS1100E stopped charging. In the process of trouble shooting I believe I have narrowed it down to the stator. No load voltage across any of the 3 phases at 5000 RPM is anywhere between 8 and 13 volts AC instead of 80 volts AC as per the shop manual. What I find interesting is the resistance between each of the phases is 7-8 ohms and there is no short to case on any of them. So no opens and no shorts. Is this typical of a bad stator or am I missing something?

 

[BassCliff]

Hi,

The resistance between the legs should be between .5 ohm and maybe 2 ohms. I'll bet all of the insulation has melted from the windings and turned your stator into a hunk of copper. Good job troubleshooting. :clap:


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[posplayr]

My 1983 GS1100E stopped charging. In the process of trouble shooting I believe I have narrowed it down to the stator. No load voltage across any of the 3 phases at 5000 RPM is anywhere between 8 and 13 volts AC instead of 80 volts AC as per the shop manual. What I find interesting is the resistance between each of the phases is 7-8 ohms and there is no short to case on any of them. So no opens and no shorts. Is this typical of a bad stator or am I missing something?

Higher resistance would indicate something opening (if only a little). Since most problems are burnt insulation causing a short and therefore loss of winding I'm not sure how you got more resistance without melting copper. Are you shure your meter is correct?

On the other hand, if the voltage is reading low for an open circuit condition that implies shorted windings and not an open (as there is no current flowing for the resistance to make any difference)

I just changed out my ED stator for a brand new one and only have about 300 miles on it. In chasing an oil leak I pulled the stator cover back off to see the insulation on the upper part of the stator is already starting to darken (the leak as it turns out is really in the starter o-ring).

Stator replacement will likely solve the problem and you will find your cooked.

 

[rasndas]

Thanks guy's I was afraid of that. I will recheck the resistance to make sure I didn't get the decimal point in the wrong place and have .7 to.8 ohms. Doesn't really matter though as it still isn't putting out enough voltage. I did find the " Stator Papers" and found them most helpful. Again thanks for your replies.

 

[rasndas]

Another Question. I ordered a new elecktrosport stator to replace my defective one. The one currently in the bike has 3 yellow wires instead of the color coded ones so I'm guessing it isn't a suzuki item. The bike does have 50,000 miles on it but if it has gone through 2 stators is there something else I should do. I assume if the R/R checks out ( it appears to be original) It is OK to use. The bike has never blown the 15 amp fuse that goes to the red wire on the R/R ( at least since I've owned it) so I'm assuming it isn't pulling too much current. The electrical system on the bike is stock with no add ons. Any Thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks

 

[posplayr]

Another Question. I ordered a new elecktrosport stator to replace my defective one. The one currently in the bike has 3 yellow wires instead of the color coded ones so I'm guessing it isn't a suzuki item. The bike does have 50,000 miles on it but if it has gone through 2 stators is there something else I should do. I assume if the R/R checks out ( it appears to be original) It is OK to use. The bike has never blown the 15 amp fuse that goes to the red wire on the R/R ( at least since I've owned it) so I'm assuming it isn't pulling too much current. The electrical system on the bike is stock with no add ons. Any Thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks

The faster you drive (higher engine RPM), the more poweroutput and the more the R/R has to regulate. This generates heat. Go slower is all you can do.

It has nothing to do with the 15 amp fuse.

 

[BassCliff]

The bike does have 50,000 miles on it but if it has gone through 2 stators is there something else I should do.

Hi,

Make sure all of your electrical connections and grounds are clean! I even cleaned my fusebox, turn signal stalks, the big fat ground wire that connects the negative battery post to the bottom of the engine, everything from the headlight bucket to the tail light. Your bike will love you for it.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[rasndas]

I do cruise the bike at 70MPH which is about 4000 RPM I believe. Roughly how long do stators last?

 

[jwebfournow]

Hello all!

Finally got the adjustments done on the 82 gsgk, put a new battery in checking the charging system and find that the stator has a problem one leg putting out 1.3 volts the other two over 60. Whats the general consensus on where to buy another one. Anybody have a favorite. Thanks

 

[posplayr]

I do cruise the bike at 70MPH which is about 4000 RPM I believe. Roughly how long do stators last?

4K RPM is normal use. I'm thinking more like alot of 5-7K with peaks to redline. I do this aggressive cornering in 2nd or 3rd gear.

Hard to say, makes it much worse if the connections are not clean. Hard charaging 1100/1150's seem to have more problems than most.

I recently installed a new Electrosport just 3 weeks ago on my ED. I did no more than 300 miles (sport riding) and then pulled the cover off to look for a leak (always replace your starter O-ring if you get a chance).
The stator is already discolored brown at the top 1/2 of the windings. Apparently the lower part is always in oil and stays cooler; it was still nice and Blue like it came out of the box.

 

[BassCliff]

Hello all!

Finally got the adjustments done on the 82 gsgk, put a new battery in checking the charging system and find that the stator has a problem one leg putting out 1.3 volts the other two over 60. Whats the general consensus on where to buy another one. Anybody have a favorite. Thanks

Hi,

You are allowed to start your own thread, you know?

See your "mega-welocome" for our favorite vendors; Electrosport, Rick's, RM Stator, and other vendors sell electrical parts. I think Rick's comes with proper grommets and sleeves. With the others you must use the old grommets and crimp/solder your own connectors.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[bwringer]

A stator will last indefinitely if all the connections throughout the bike are kept clean. It's not a wear item -- burning out stators means There's Another Problem. (Likely several smaller problems, actually.)

The crappy bullet connectors on the stator connectors are especially troublesome. Replace these with spade connectors or solder these leads directly.

Visit EVERY connection and switch in the wiring harness, and correct any burned wires or corroded connectors. No shortcuts. Even the ignition switch contacts.

 

[posplayr]

A stator will last indefinitely if all the connections throughout the bike are kept clean. It's not a wear item -- burning out stators means There's Another Problem. (Likely several smaller problems, actually.)

.

I'm not going to disagree that connections are critical to the stator and R/R health but I'm finding that my R/R is showing immediate signs of heat stress (brown insulation) similar to Nebro's. There are heat stresses that the copper wire undergoes and running as sustained high RPM will make it worse.

I have a Electrosport stator, FH0012A FET regulator and I'm runing two volt meters (VDO and Showchrome). I peak out at about 13.8-14.0V at 4000 RPM. I dont have more than about 0.5V total between the plus and minus connections.

What is more interesting is how the stators burn above the oil line. I've bee nthink of a way to get more oil above the oil line.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=100230&highlight=rewind+stator

 

[jwebfournow]

No offense.....just saw you guys were talking about stators figured I would ask a stator question, Sorry!

 

[rasndas]

I had already planned to replace the connectors on the R/R as they looked like they had gotten very hot. This probbly didn't do the original stator ny good. I had also planned on cleaning the grounds and doing resistance checks on them

 

[posplayr]

I had already planned to replace the connectors on the R/R as they looked like they had gotten very hot. This probbly didn't do the original stator ny good. I had also planned on cleaning the grounds and doing resistance checks on them

Read through this

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=152769

 

[Steve]

No offense.....just saw you guys were talking about stators figured I would ask a stator question, Sorry!

Might sound logical, at first, but when the answers start coming, nobody will know which question is being answered.

.

 

[rasndas]

Very good thread and looks fairly simple to do. I always wondered about some of the grounds. Especially the one on the R/R which in my case is screwed into the plate which mounts the fuse box, R/R and solenoid. This plate is in turn bolted to the frame so I see lots of potential for poor connections and besides steel is not the best conductor either. Single point ground and soldered connections look like the way to go.

 

[rasndas]

Replaced the stator with the new elecktrosport unit this weekend. replaced corroded connectors and siglepoint grounded. Started bike and out put was 14.4 volts at about 2000 RPM. revved to 5000 RPM and voltge dropped to 13.1. Shut off bike and looked at all connections. Did this about 3 times with the same results. What finally occured to me was when the regulator was cool it put out 14.4 volts. as soon as it built any heat ( warm to the touch). Voltage dropped to 13.1. Looks like I will need a regulator also. I wonder if in the grand scheme of things something went south in the regulator first which then cooked the stator. Any thoughts?

 

[posplayr]

Replaced the stator with the new elecktrosport unit this weekend. replaced corroded connectors and siglepoint grounded. Started bike and out put was 14.4 volts at about 2000 RPM. revved to 5000 RPM and voltge dropped to 13.1. Shut off bike and looked at all connections. Did this about 3 times with the same results. What finally occured to me was when the regulator was cool it put out 14.4 volts. as soon as it built any heat ( warm to the touch). Voltage dropped to 13.1. Looks like I will need a regulator also. I wonder if in the grand scheme of things something went south in the regulator first which then cooked the stator. Any thoughts?

Unless it is getting very hot (it hurts to hold your hand on it +120 deg F) the R/R is OK . When the voltage goes up like that and then drops it is more likely a bad connection in the positive side of the charging system. Clean your fuse box out and connections on . This is detailed in the revised stator pages and described in the link I sent before.

What are your voltage drops from steps 2 and 3?

Finally STEP #3.) Perform Stator Paper Checks. The stator pages checks are not perfect, but they are designed to help you through a process of elimination in determining what is wrong with your charging system. The good news about doing steps #1 and #2 above first, is that when the stator pages say to check your connections you know you already have done it. Here is the update.


http://www.thegsresources.com/statorpapers4.php

Link to Revised PHASE A of Stator Pages:


ORIGINAL_STATOR_PAGES

The most important thing will be to make sure every thing checks out at 5000 RPM which is typical cruising speed. You might find that you will need to clean your fuse box to get the positive side voltage drops below 0.2V at 5000 RPM. In steps #1 above you should of gotten most of the connections between the R/R(+) to battery (+) in good shape except the fuse box.