Stator Papers Clarification

[posplayr]

Hey, thanks guys. It looks like things are performing as advertised. Battery holds a charge, and voltage seems to be a steady 14.18v from 2000rpm to at least 5000rpm. And the R/R stays touchably cool when mounted under the battery box.

ALSO:

I'm not sure if this is a tip or if it has already been shared, but I learned that I should test conductivity between the yellow leads and the side cover after the stator has been put in place but before mounting it on the bike. The reason being that I tested the leads to the frame (chassis?) of the stator and it tested fine, but then I tested it against the frame of the bike when it was all buttoned up and it failed (meaning there was conductivity).

After taking things apart and re-assembling them 3 or so times, I found out that one of the coils was close enough to the stator mounting 'tower' on the stator cover that it was only contacting it when things were tightened down. (Before discovering this, tried bending the plate that covers the leads away from the stator.)

So, in case anyone sees this through a search, (and they are able to decipher what I typed above) I thought it might save some people from doing the same task more than once. Test early, test often!

Thanks again, all.

Chris

There should never be condutivity between a stator winding and the frame/chassis. And yes it is best to check this after the stator is installed as there can be clearance issues where things get grounded as you have found out. But in addition to that there can be conductivity under other conditions like:

1. The engine warms up
2. The voltage from the stator starts to rise and breaks down the insulation.

You will have notices also that you should test the AC voltage from each stator leg to ground while running the bike to insure you are getting nothing. This also insures no conductivity. (See modified Phase B tests of the stator pages under GS Charging Health.) Obviously this is with the stator installed and the engine buttoned up and running.