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Stator Papers- getting through it with questions...

  • Thread starter Thread starter MatBirch
  • Start date Start date
M

MatBirch

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I'm having some trouble getting through the steps in order as I can't get the bike to run very well on it's own due to the ignition troubles. I can't get the bike to rev to 5k. I can get to 4k with the choke on...

initial test results.

Batt- 12.9V
Idle- 12.2V
4k- 12.4V

I know the battery voltage is low to begin with, but I should still be seeing better numbers while running. It cranks and starts just fine.

I tested the stator leads, and all legs test "good" at right around 2 ohms. The meter was ranging a lot, but when it would settle, it would be right there. I went ahead and pulled the cover, and it is VERY black, and charcoal looking.




I fully intend to swap out the RR. At the moment I have a couple of Honda RRs from 84 VF750s, as well as one from my '99 BMW F650. Eventually, I will put a Polaris unit in.

What should my next step be? go ahead and rewind the stator? I would hate to wipe out one of those RRs because the stator is bad.
 
You could start by reporting all 6 numbers in the Quick test. You skipped 1/2 of the test.

Regardless since you already pulled the cover, the stator is obviously toast even if it is outputting anything.

You clearly need a SERIES R/R (e.g. SH-775) .

replace both stator and a series R/R and be done with it.
 
posplayr said:
You could start by reporting all 6 numbers in the Quick test. You skipped 1/2 of the test.

Regardless since you already pulled the cover, the stator is obviously toast even if it is outputting anything.

You clearly need a SERIES R/R (e.g. SH-775) .

replace both stator and a series R/R and be done with it.
Click to expand...

Sorry... I didn't really SKIP the tests, I just didn't bother to note the results as it was just obviously one big fat failure...
Step 2 was about 12.2V
Step 4 never got anything different than 12.2-12.4V
Step 6 was down to 11.9 put charger back on...

That's why I went ahead and pulled the cover even though I had "good" numbers on the stator leads.

Thanks!
 
Remove stator and throw it in the trash (or rewind if you know how). That thing is finished.

Your older style R/R from the Honda will get you by just fine. Upgrade to a SH775 if you have the inclination but those old Shindengen R/R's were very reliable units. I believe they used a sense wire which should attach to a source of switched power so keep this in mind.

Rewire the charging system completely. Take the new stator wires directly into the new R/R, bypassing the factory harness. Take the R/R ground to a solid frame point or direct to the battery. Last step is to route the R/R power output either through the fusebox like it was originally, or direct to the battery with a fuse inline. If you choose to route the power through the fuse box you should check for voltage loss in that circuit. To do this place one volt meter probe on the R/R power output wire and the other on the positive battery post (the charging system must be working to do this test so save it for last). If this shows more than about .3V then you should clean all the connections in the circuit to reduce the losses.

This is all pretty simple stuff.

Good luck.
 
Last edited:
Shunt regulators, lead acid batteries, incandescent headlight, leather helmets, all relics of the stone age which have no business on any motorcycle.
Get a series regulator and don't look back.
 
that there stator is toast. but you probably knew that already....
 
I'm probably up for a rewind, but if not, who's the best source for a stator? It's a 250 BTW. I've seen more bad than good about electrosport...
 
I think Rick's is best, but they are also the most expensive.

One thing is to look for a stator that is not wound in a way that boosts output. You don't want this because any extra power is just shunted back into the stator itself which can subsequently lead to a shorter life for the part.
 
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