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Stator "Potting"

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
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Guest

Guest
Hi GSR.

It's been a long time.

Biking season is over and I am doing the necessary evils now.

I have been putting up with a weak stator all summer. Bike runs fine with the headlight fuse out.

I own another stator (It was removed and replaced with my current one by rustybronco a good while ago).
And I have wanted to rewind that one ever since it came out.

Anyway I have stripped it and am in the process of rewinding it.

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When I test this one I will have another to rewind. Always wanted to have a spare for my next "Big" trip.

Good clean fun for $10 total (And those are Canadian dollars).

At this moment I have another 4 poles to wind. Still have to decide if I "Pot" the poles before or after I make the connections.....

And that is why I am here.

I can't decide on what I need. Epoxy? What kind? Special paint? Something that will "Wick" in? What the heck is "Treadlock" anyway?
One of my option is to go to the shop where I got the materials and ask them.

What does the hive brain suggest?

Thanks a million,

Daniel
 
There's an old thread on here about how to do it.
Nerobro did it
 
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I am not so sure thick coatings are such a great idea myself. I've a LOT of old motors that don't have coatings... maybe,(coatings) they hold the heat, don't penetrate to the core on the corners and so on.
AND I am thinking : if I start with a 10$ wire cost, it soon goes into more as I try to duplicate professional results -plus- I end up with a whole shelf full of $$ tools of the trade...half full cans of expensive coatings etc.etc etc. so I just put a few dabs of jbweld on and call it good enough.
But time will tell: here's some more info:
..I haven't got the link, just the pdf. (search for "2009 Buell 1125R Stator Rewind and Rotor Modification" or similar?)
anyways the gist of it was
Special thermally conductive epoxy, like Duralco 132, has viscosity comparable to or greater than J-B Weld and it is expensive at $86/pint. Electrically
resistant epoxy, like Duralco 4461, is good at penetrating windings, but expensive at $90/pint and not thermally conductive. I plan to use J-B Weld epoxy,
which can withstand 500F/260C continuous, to hold the windings in place and protect against vibration, but I plan to use as little as possible. The thermal
conductivity of J-B Weld is 0.59 W/(m*C) or 2.36 BTU-in/(hr*ft^2*F), which is similar to water and a bit less than Cotronics Duralco 4460/4461 at 4
BTU-in/(hr*ft^2*f). I bought the J-B INDUSTRO WELD package that works out to $15/10oz or $24/pint. I tested some J-B Weld thinned with acetone, which
would penetrate windings better, heated to 500F for 4 hours and it held up really well. It was still strong and hard as a rock afterward, but I did not like the
surface microcracks. .....

you might want to get a sacrificial toaster oven at the thrift store if you are going to get into it.

ADD: Not to be critical....but- it occurs to me that if you are asking now, it might be too late, because the core is the first thing to coat...I see you have cleaned it up but your windings at the bottom are on uncoated steel? so you might want to squeeze some goo in there just in case but check it against the mounting in your cover too....too much in the wrong places will b*gger the fit.
(my wire is thicker(#18) so I end up more crammed in the top but you don't appear to have a worry there...)

and also,you MIGHT want to wash it in methyl-hydrate before coating, just in case your finger oil is all over the windings....unless you wore clean gloves
 
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