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Stator Prognosis Needed

Gregory

Gregory

Forum Mentor
Past Site Supporter
Hey guys,

I just went through the stator papers to check my charging system. (thanks basscliff) Here is what I found out..but dont know what it means.

1. In checking the Resitance between the A,B,C leads - all were 3.2 ohms

2. When checking leads to ground all read - OL (good news)

3. When checking the third category (resistance voltage I believe) at 4k RPM all read around 66. - (which i guess is also good news)

In the papers it said that the first test of resistance should be between 0.5 and 2.0.

What do you think this means? Do I have to plunk down cash for a new stator?

BTW, Here are a couple pics of the leads. DONT CHIME IN about the connectors since I have bought new ones that will be replacing these.

album.php

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/album.php?albumid=2252&pictureid=11773

My question is whether the two extra wires a (blue/white) and (yellow) sould be tied in or left separate ? The PO had them dissconected.

Thanks in advance to anyone with the wisdom to answer this.
 
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If it's making 66 volts AC it is working, at least some of the time. Has the bike been charging OK or is there a problem?

3.2 ohms, fairly close to the 2.0 it should be... Don't know maybe some wires or the connection inside the stator cover are starting to deteriorate? Are you using a cheapo meter or a good one? Could be the meter is a little off. If it were my bike I'd put a little voltmeter on it and ride, learn how the voltage changes as you ride, see if it's always the same or does it go too low or too high sometimes.

Voltmeter like this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-4-5-30V...er-/180955869479?ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:US:3160
 
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Thanks Bud,

I dont know if it is charging right because it is not registered (cant drive on the road) and is still sitting in the shop. Since I have been idling it working on various things it seemed like it needed to be charged.

I just decided to go through the stator papers because I had been dorking with the fusebox and decided it best to check everything.
 
Your stator only has 3 output wires. Not sure why it would have 2 extra wires unless the PO put something else inline with them.
The extra resistance could be due to those connectors, which you know are poor quality since you are going to replace them.
I suggest 2 things:
First, find out where those extra wires are coming from. If it were my bike, I would track them down and figure that out. Then I would redo the wrap to only include the 3 stator output wires and do something else about the other 2.
Second, I would retest when you put the good connectors on there. I suspect you will find the resistance will fall inline with the correct specs.
 
Gregory said:
Thanks Bud,

I dont know if it is charging right because it is not registered (cant drive on the road) and is still sitting in the shop. Since I have been idling it working on various things it seemed like it needed to be charged.

I just decided to go through the stator papers because I had been dorking with the fusebox and decided it best to check everything.
Click to expand...

Always a good idea to check. Running it in the shop probably isn't enough to charge it very well, it needs a good long ride.
Did the rest of The Stator Papers tests come out OK?
 
could the other 2 be neutral switch and oil sender?
I'm not familiar with this bike
 
barnbiketom said:
could the other 2 be neutral switch and oil sender?
I'm not familiar with this bike
Click to expand...
I was wondering the same thing. I would still not put DC lines in the same harness as high frequency AC lines. If it was a good idea Suzuki would have done it at the factory.
 
I thought the extra two wires were the feedback from the headlight assembly that I read about in another thread. They are the exact same color as the other two in that bundle.

PUT THIS PIC IN FIRST POST OF THREAD


Here is another pic of what I am working with... one from stator one from R/R.
 
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Image did not make it.
Even more reason to figure out exactly what they were intended to do, btw.
 
Hi,

Gregory said:
I thought the extra two wires were the feedback from the headlight assembly that I read about in another thread. They are the exact same color as the other two in that bundle.

stator%20n%20rr%20leads.jpg


Here is another pic of what I am working with... one from stator one from R/R.
Click to expand...

You tried an image link from your own computer's hard drive. It doesn't work like that. You must host your pictures on a web service, like Photobucket. If not, then you can only attach one small picture (97k) per post. Have a look at this: Posting Pictures To GSR


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
"78 and '79 had a separate regulator and rectifier. Two of the wires were doubled about 6" into the bundle coming from the stator. I believe they were the yellow and white/green, so there are only actually three wires originating at the stator.
 
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Your two white/blue and yellow wires join their respective colors about 6" in the bundle toward the stator. You will be abandoning one of each color. White/red to green/white, yellow to yellow and white/blue to white/blue. That should leave the white/red and green/white wires that looped that stator leg through the headlight switch, to cut it off if the light was turned off so it didn't burn up the stator, to abandon also.
 
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Boy now I am really confused.

There are corresponding wires to ALL of the wires shown-- except one yellow, and one white/blue from the stator/bike bundle.

These two were not connected to anything.

When original did these tie in somewhere? And what would it hurt to make it original again? Or just leave them unhooked?

BTW, Old Vet, Sunday is veterans day and Applebees hase Free meal for vets if they can show some kind of ID, and Red Lobster is giving away a free appetizer.
 
There was a separate regulator and a rectifier on the '78. That is why two of the wires split to go to each unit, yellow and white/blue. Newer R/R units are combined, so only one yellow and white/blue is needed because you don't have to connect to two modules anymore. If you read what I wrote, it accounts for all your wires, where they connect to now and explains that you should have a white/red and green/white left over that ran through the light switch. It is easier to explain on the phone, so If you want to PM me with your phone number, I'll be glad to call.
 
I sure appreciate it. I guess the PO had already changed the R/R to a newer unit.

I think I am ok with the other wires since they all match up to the same colors on the other ends.

Other than the stator, do you have any idea what would cause my battery to only show 12.29 volts at idle AND at 4k RPMS?
 
He did, but it is still an older type R/R. The problem with that is in how the system works. When it has charged the battery, it still operates, but shunts through the stator. It is designed to expect a certain electrical load, so if doesn't have that load, it tends to burn the stator up. That is why they ran one stator leg through your headlight switch on the white/red and green/white wire to cut that leg off if the headlight was ever turned off. Just don't ever run the bike with the light off, or switch the R/R for a series type R/R that shuts off when it reaches charge instead of shunting through the stator.
 
OldVet66 said:
He did, but it is still an older type R/R. The problem with that is in how the system works. When it has charged the battery, it still operates, but shunts through the stator. It is designed to expect a certain electrical load, so if doesn't have that load, it tends to burn the stator up. That is why they ran one stator leg through your headlight switch on the white/red and green/white wire to cut that leg off if the headlight was ever turned off. Just don't ever run the bike with the light off, or switch the R/R for a series type R/R that shuts off when it reaches charge instead of shunting through the stator.
Click to expand...

My apologies for being so dense about this, I guess this is above my comprehension level.

Why wouldnt hooking it up the original factory way (minus the extra Yellow and White/Blue) keep it working without burning up the stator?

I remember running my other 78 back in the 80's without the light.
 
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